supposedly the reason Injector Dynamics released the ID1300 with stainless internals for alcohol fuels is because if std injectors sat unused for a while they would rust and stick/fail.

If true, then I can only imagine that a water/alcohol mixture with be that much worse for potentially causing the issue ...

 

That's the problem right there. There are no fuel injectors designed for 100% water. I expect the fuel injector to be a wear item, and that's ok. I don't expect them to last longer than 6 months without cleaning or replacement so long as they last longer than my patience. I may go for a ID1300 eventually, but it all depends on how well the system works.

Right now I've had good luck with EV14 injectors. No rusting shut, just a bit of plugging and that was due to a carbon steel injector bung which has been replaced with aluminum.

 

Fjo was bought put by holley, thats the method im going with. Im thinking of using a mac solenoid and this bete p66.

 

That should work nicely. Bench test it with the mac solenoid first of course.

 

Yeap ive got a 1liter graduated cylinder so ill flow test it at a few different pressures to soo how much difference it makes. Then build a map based on that.

 

Missfire\MPG issue is fixed. It was the KAM. Water injection is working great. Need to install the rpm sensor wiring and get the lockout installed, but happily cruising at 4 psi.

 

I've done some logging and AFRs are hovering 12.5-13 just a hair lean. Working on a fuel pump solution now. Hit 8psi twice by accident at around 4000 rpm, no knock but damn the car became a beast. Highest IAT jump was about 25deg from 60 to 85. Short pulls, low boost, and low rpm are my limitations right now, but I'm reworking my water tank and installing the lockout when the weather gets warmer. I really want to push 8psi on the low end and start working up the RPM. Traction will quickly become an issue.

 

You haven't run out of fuel pump yet .............. not at that psi/rpm ......

 

Correct and I want a fix before I get there. I'm staying within stock fueling limits until I get the failsafe working and preferably a new pump.
Edit:
Just ordered a DW200 straight from their website. And i have half built a "Buck-A-Pump" system, just need to figure out where to connect a fuel pressure sensor.

 

I'm loving how the car performs right now, pretty much everything I had hoped for with this build. Boost comes on low in the RPM band with no perceivable lag. The WI has yet to fail, and is providing enough to prevent knock and keep IATs reasonable. The arduino based EBC and WI controller works like a champ both at maintaining pressure and spraying on demand. I've simplified a lot of my WI code so it sprays at 25% water to fuel (by mass) after 60g/sec air flow. This keeps water consumption down while still providing safety. The couple of runs I've had at 8psi have been exciting, but uneventful. Time to fix some things and do it for real.

Here is the list of things to do before 8psi (and >6000rpm in boost):
WG reconfigure to push pull.
BOV plumbed for recirc.
DW200 installed
RPM pickup installed.Almost
Water tank and pump permanently mounted.
Lockout installed.Almost

Hopefully I'll get it done in the next couple of days, because I'm about to be working a month of extended overtime at work.

 

Got some work done today, but not enough. Waiting on time and coil-overs right now. Probably do some datalog runs on the drives to work and dial in cruse numbers, but everything else is on hold.

 

Push/pull wastegate works great. I did some creative plumbing and I now can fail the wastegate open or set it full closed until 4psi or whatever higher set-point I put in the controller. I still end up with around 2psi at 7k+ but who cares, it's enough to allow me to prevent engine damage. Recoding the controller right now to default to 0psi and allow menu selected boost. When I get RPM working I'll have full boost profiles.

 

I pulled the e-shaft trigger plate off so I replace the front main seal, but when I went to put it back on the bolts wouldn't thread in the holes(they were a little bit off). After a little drilling it went on but now the car runs really rough. So is my catalytic toast? Or is it my fuel pump?

 

LOL....... this had better be an April Fools joke

 

Would have posted a Renesis Isuzu swap. I was thinking perhaps a rodeo, but I didn't have time to Ms paint some torque curves at work.

 

The closed loop boost controller works great. Its spooling quicker now with the valve pinned shut until it hits the setpoint, then maintains closely all the way up. But the Chinese waste gate appears to be rusting shut overnight. When I start driving I get a single spike to 8psi then it behaves. Took a while to narrow down the cause, but Tial waste gate here I come.

Edit: And its now stuck open. Tial on order... Gonna be a while until I get it put in.

 

Ok... Serious Problem. My water pump pulley cut through my turbo oil drain. Getting things together to re-plumb it to the front cover. Been going NA the past couple of days (with my other car). Should be back up when I have a day to work on it... Maybe in May.

 

The car is back on the road and happy. Oil drain is now going to the drivers side of the pan with braided hose and AN fitting. Knock based boost cut is working and has saved me a couple times from water injection failure, haven't used the full engine cut yet. Still a work in progress.

 

why did the W/I fail ?

 

Had a fitting start leaking, it drained my tank. I assumed I had just been hitting it hard and ran out of water... Then I filled it back up and within 15 minutes it ran out again and I found the leak.
Knock hit 400 and it fails the WG open, reliable unless the WG gets stuck closed.

 

Have you done a DIY on your knock detection / WG system ?

 

Not yet. I have posted some of the code, but the code and the hardware is still pretty rough. I'm just glad it all works together well enough to keep the engine from getting killed. Guess I could throw it together and let other people help work out the bugs.

 

I would be keen , but I'm pretty weak on the electrical/software side of things so it would need to be simple ..........

 

I got tired of having one of the wires to my display disconnect and various other issues, so I'm getting parts together to completely overhaul the WI wiring/circuit boards. This will also clean up spaghetti system of wires under the hood and make it more presentable. Getting custom PCBs etched is on the table, but I still need one more generation of protoboard just to make sure I like it as is. I still haven't settled on a permanent tank mount for the trunk, because every time I try it looks wrong. At this rate I may need a custom fuel cell just to satisfy my OCD.

 

My WG plumbing.