Greddy Turbo Overheated
11-12-2009, 11:24 PM
#77
There is nothing behind the radiator that needs to be cooled by any airflow. The only exception would be your intake. With radiators, bigger is always better as you have more surface area to dissipate heat. The only exception would be if you have too much cooling and the engine cannot reach operating temperature.
Has anyone thought of pointing the radiator down instead of up? Ducting would have to be done of course to force the air through the rad.
thewird
Has anyone thought of pointing the radiator down instead of up? Ducting would have to be done of course to force the air through the rad.
thewird
more than once.. oldraggers posts are the help you need..
simple and effective..
as to air flow through the rad or intercooler. oldragger has covered it..
but from a na car that does track events.. the mazmart rad thermostat, and pump dont suck.. gauge did not move..
choices but the koyo would not be one of them.
so how to prevent overheating on track or with fi the is going to run for more than 10 sec..
add a aux rad, od has hints on that.
mazmart. built to fit.
bhr. built to fit.
any aftermarket radiator on ebay or not mazdamart or bhr, FAIL!!!!
hey, but what do i know..
beers
11-14-2009, 02:19 PM
#78
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One more question, now I am experiencing a hard start problem, car runs fine and normal.
Did a compression test, all of them reads 60psi, not sure if it is the wrong tester, but my machanic said if they all read the same, he is pretty sure it's not blown.
After taking off and putting the plugs back on the car starts fine for 3 times, then after that it'll take a me a long time to start it, around 5 mins!
Really don't know what could be wrong!
Any input would be great!
Thanks
Did a compression test, all of them reads 60psi, not sure if it is the wrong tester, but my machanic said if they all read the same, he is pretty sure it's not blown.
After taking off and putting the plugs back on the car starts fine for 3 times, then after that it'll take a me a long time to start it, around 5 mins!
Really don't know what could be wrong!
Any input would be great!
Thanks
11-14-2009, 02:23 PM
#79
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You should dyno your car, see if there is any real power loss. Or make short third gear pull with another stock 8 and see that way. I had both hard starts and then eventual stalling before my last two engine replacements.
11-15-2009, 02:25 AM
#82
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60 PSi is very low, even if it was done with your standard compression tester. Equal compression indicates your engine is not blown, however you are weak on compression. And with readings that low, you could get your engine replaced under warranty from Mazda if your still under warranty and were stock.
Having a hard time to start your car when its hot is indicative of low compression.
thewird
Having a hard time to start your car when its hot is indicative of low compression.
thewird
11-15-2009, 09:03 PM
#84
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vacuum reading is around 16.
do you think it would happen to be all 60psi? thought it cant be low for all of them. my car drives fine, and i did broke my car to the dealership while back ago before turbo, and my engine is fine. and now my car is running the same way it was when i first got my turbo kit. Just hard starts.
sometime hard starts, sometime its fine, thinking if it could be my plugs. cause when i did the compression test, the car starts right up after taking out the plugs.
After track day, i do notice that there are a lot of oil in my catch tank, even some spill out. so i dont know if that matters!!
maybe its time for me to take out my intercooler and drain the oil out. haha
p.s. if my car is low on compression, will my car drive, run, and idle the same? even if mine is turbo!?!
do you think it would happen to be all 60psi? thought it cant be low for all of them. my car drives fine, and i did broke my car to the dealership while back ago before turbo, and my engine is fine. and now my car is running the same way it was when i first got my turbo kit. Just hard starts.
sometime hard starts, sometime its fine, thinking if it could be my plugs. cause when i did the compression test, the car starts right up after taking out the plugs.
After track day, i do notice that there are a lot of oil in my catch tank, even some spill out. so i dont know if that matters!!
maybe its time for me to take out my intercooler and drain the oil out. haha
p.s. if my car is low on compression, will my car drive, run, and idle the same? even if mine is turbo!?!
Last edited by c41250n; 11-15-2009 at 09:06 PM.
11-16-2009, 09:16 AM
#88
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yes and will have hard starts i was at the drag strip ran a couple high 14 passes then 3 days later my engine was being replaced for low compression never felt like anything was wrong.
11-16-2009, 04:43 PM
#89
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damn..that is bad, would compression be low for all of them at the same time?
but i've been getting 16 on vacuum ever since i got the Cobb and Jeff's dyno tuned it for me!
but i've been getting 16 on vacuum ever since i got the Cobb and Jeff's dyno tuned it for me!
11-16-2009, 09:48 PM
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i hope so as well. i'm just trying to pass what i've learned to a fellow member. to be fair i did get my car back and it was having long starts ended up being coils.
11-16-2009, 11:34 PM
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mine too . get over it either accept it and rebuild time or live with it until you have the money for a rebuild. you could spend 1000 of dollars and countless time figuring it out what everyone knows and have accept but you.
your engine has low compression and needs to be replaced.
your engine has low compression and needs to be replaced.
11-17-2009, 06:17 PM
#98
It appears from your test results that they were done without a proper rotary compression tester...so you really don't have any data one way or another.
Either drive the car till it completely blows up...or get a proper test done so you can find out the real status of your engine
You might want to Seafoam it and drive it hard for a couple of days before the test to get max results
Either drive the car till it completely blows up...or get a proper test done so you can find out the real status of your engine
You might want to Seafoam it and drive it hard for a couple of days before the test to get max results
11-18-2009, 12:29 AM
#99
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https://www.rx8club.com/group-buy-center-85/tr-01-rotary-engine-compression-tester-official-group-buy-172238/
If you lived near me you could drop by and use mine for free but oh well. It works great.
thewird
Last edited by thewird; 11-18-2009 at 12:52 AM.
11-18-2009, 03:35 AM
#100
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i understand, even thought it is not the proper testing for compression test, but it still wouldn't have all same reading for all 4 seals if it is low on compression.
for now, i just want to know what will cause hard starts other than low compression?
like vacuum leak, etc??
for now, i just want to know what will cause hard starts other than low compression?
like vacuum leak, etc??