Greddy Turbo Overheated
11-08-2009, 04:31 PM
#26
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ok...i'll check all those as well, really don't know what is wrong with my cooling system. the last time i went on track, the highest i got was only 210.
so Koyo is not a good option for aftermarket radiator? Koyo is definitely cheaper!
so Koyo is not a good option for aftermarket radiator? Koyo is definitely cheaper!
11-08-2009, 10:13 PM
#28
Original Turbo 'd Auto !!
Not exacty.
Not that i'm aware of. You can however add a 6.7 mm shim and it will hold it open. you should only do this on the drivers side oil cooler however.
I had a thread around here that had pics of the bypass plug apart and with the shim installed.
Not that i'm aware of. You can however add a 6.7 mm shim and it will hold it open. you should only do this on the drivers side oil cooler however.
I had a thread around here that had pics of the bypass plug apart and with the shim installed.
11-08-2009, 11:06 PM
#29
The OE poster, you need to listen closely to the engine with someone else in the car revving it. All of the ideas presented here need to be either verified as true or false before you put that crappy Koyo on your car and think that will fix it.
11-09-2009, 05:07 AM
#30
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the only reason i need to replace the radiator, cause my car is overheating while im on track.
and you told me to listen closely is to find out where is it leaking, is it right?
and you told me to listen closely is to find out where is it leaking, is it right?
11-09-2009, 10:10 AM
#32
Recently Coming back this past weekend from Roebling Road and running the car for 4 sessions I must say I have learned alot from what a Turbo Car can be like on the track.
I too experienced the same smoking coming from passenger side and it ended up being the Vac line on the lower intake manifold that ran to a breather between the alternator. Ended up causing a horrible vac leak and ended my sessions a bit earlier. My water temps got up into the 210-220's as well but I think what saved it were the modified thermostat housing I have and the Cooling Fan Kit, as I am still on a stock rad and water pump as well.
Also I agree with that second radiator, OD could not stop talking about it this weekend and I would have to agree with him after running my car.
Also Dannobre should spill the beans on the rest of his "monster setup" as I definitely could have used it this weekend.
Another persons input on this subject would be swoope, he has the whole mazmart setup: Rad, Thermostat, Water Pump so I am sure he could share some feedback on what he has going on with his car.
So many variables on running a turbo car on the track, so much more prep that is needed. This past weekend was truly an eye opener on the the effects of what can happen at the track when you are constantly beating on it on every turn.
I too experienced the same smoking coming from passenger side and it ended up being the Vac line on the lower intake manifold that ran to a breather between the alternator. Ended up causing a horrible vac leak and ended my sessions a bit earlier. My water temps got up into the 210-220's as well but I think what saved it were the modified thermostat housing I have and the Cooling Fan Kit, as I am still on a stock rad and water pump as well.
Also I agree with that second radiator, OD could not stop talking about it this weekend and I would have to agree with him after running my car.
Also Dannobre should spill the beans on the rest of his "monster setup" as I definitely could have used it this weekend.
Another persons input on this subject would be swoope, he has the whole mazmart setup: Rad, Thermostat, Water Pump so I am sure he could share some feedback on what he has going on with his car.
So many variables on running a turbo car on the track, so much more prep that is needed. This past weekend was truly an eye opener on the the effects of what can happen at the track when you are constantly beating on it on every turn.
Last edited by Race Roots; 11-09-2009 at 11:37 AM.
11-09-2009, 10:50 PM
#34
I ended up shifting early and turning the cabin heater on to prevent overheating . That is with a 2nd rad instead of the 2nd oil cooler .
I think the setup I have would keep it cool work for up to about 280whp .
11-09-2009, 10:55 PM
#35
Just got back from a day at the track as well and i could not agree more .
I ended up shifting early and turning the cabin heater on to prevent overheating . That is with a 2nd rad instead of the 2nd oil cooler .
I think the setup I have would keep it cool work for up to about 280whp .
I ended up shifting early and turning the cabin heater on to prevent overheating . That is with a 2nd rad instead of the 2nd oil cooler .
I think the setup I have would keep it cool work for up to about 280whp .
11-10-2009, 12:16 PM
#39
go look at your oil cooler on the passenger side of your car and imagine it hooked up to the radiator instead of the oil cooling system and there you have it 
I'm thinking I should replace that radiator with a more efficient water radiator , go bigger with the water lines & open up the plastic liner a little more to get more airflow through it . I like the concept of it though .
I'm thinking I should replace that radiator with a more efficient water radiator , go bigger with the water lines & open up the plastic liner a little more to get more airflow through it . I like the concept of it though .
11-10-2009, 12:35 PM
#41
Yep - all JDM 8's only had one oil cooler ...
As a side issue - I do wonder how much effect putting the larger intercooler in place has had . I didn't have a cooling issue last time I tracked the car with turbo but much has changed since then so ....
As a side issue - I do wonder how much effect putting the larger intercooler in place has had . I didn't have a cooling issue last time I tracked the car with turbo but much has changed since then so ....
Last edited by Brettus; 11-10-2009 at 12:37 PM.
11-10-2009, 02:26 PM
#43
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hum...how much is the duct with the 2 small radiators?
and do you know if it will clear my stock intercooler?
also, would it lower the car even more since my car is already pretty low!?
and do you know if it will clear my stock intercooler?
also, would it lower the car even more since my car is already pretty low!?
11-10-2009, 07:54 PM
#45
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1235925720
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1235925720
these pics are right after the install--it is much more refined looking now. Just to give you an idea.
There is a lot to a cooling system. track and street are 2 different animals for the FI rotary.
Its all about aiflow and heat exchange. Our oem radiator is pretty good, our oem airflow sucks.
I am cheap so I choose the less expensive way--see pics.
$80 cooler from Summitt racing, Track temps usually in the 190-200F range on a 90-95F day with 30-40% humidity.'It has never seen 210F
Turbo cars have less options to access airflow because of the usually massive intercoolers up front.
Cams set up may work for you but the air available to it is already "heated"
What is the usual air temps behind that intercooler on track while under sustained boost? Probably aint cool?
Cams set up has hoses arranged in a series not parallel--this really helps the efficiency. Its a slick set up.
Other changes are also needed imho
1- drill the thermostat --search---read and learn
2- 70/30 blend water to coolant
3- Mazmart water pump
4- make sure the foam is in place and seals well
5- turn fans on earlier
6- stay out of the 8-9K rpm range whenever possible
I also will take this opportunity to suggest very strongly to install a water meth injection system when this engine is boosted. Air charge temps are influenced by the coolant temps but this is another very involved subject. Search read and learn then just do it.
OD
https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...5&d=1235925720
these pics are right after the install--it is much more refined looking now. Just to give you an idea.
There is a lot to a cooling system. track and street are 2 different animals for the FI rotary.
Its all about aiflow and heat exchange. Our oem radiator is pretty good, our oem airflow sucks.
I am cheap so I choose the less expensive way--see pics.
$80 cooler from Summitt racing, Track temps usually in the 190-200F range on a 90-95F day with 30-40% humidity.'It has never seen 210F
Turbo cars have less options to access airflow because of the usually massive intercoolers up front.
Cams set up may work for you but the air available to it is already "heated"
What is the usual air temps behind that intercooler on track while under sustained boost? Probably aint cool?
Cams set up has hoses arranged in a series not parallel--this really helps the efficiency. Its a slick set up.
Other changes are also needed imho
1- drill the thermostat --search---read and learn
2- 70/30 blend water to coolant
3- Mazmart water pump
4- make sure the foam is in place and seals well
5- turn fans on earlier
6- stay out of the 8-9K rpm range whenever possible
I also will take this opportunity to suggest very strongly to install a water meth injection system when this engine is boosted. Air charge temps are influenced by the coolant temps but this is another very involved subject. Search read and learn then just do it.
OD
11-10-2009, 09:09 PM
#47
heater hose feed and return--Pettet does the same.
the cooler is fed from the heater hose going to the heater core and it returns to the thermostat housing where the return heater hose goes . Do not forget to take the heater hose restrictor out(brass reducer plug)
This causes a non thermostatic controlled coolant flow --thats one reason you drill the thermostat.
It seems so far (running it x 1 1/2 yrs) that Warm up times are only VERY slightly affected.
OD
the cooler is fed from the heater hose going to the heater core and it returns to the thermostat housing where the return heater hose goes . Do not forget to take the heater hose restrictor out(brass reducer plug)
This causes a non thermostatic controlled coolant flow --thats one reason you drill the thermostat.
It seems so far (running it x 1 1/2 yrs) that Warm up times are only VERY slightly affected.
OD
Last edited by olddragger; 11-10-2009 at 09:12 PM.
11-11-2009, 09:23 AM
#49
The return heater hose feeds the cooler. Thats the hose that is coming out of the firewall on the passengers side to the thermostat housing. I think my 1st post on this was not clear--sorry --old man brain.
The return hose from the cooler is routed back to the thermostat housing. There is plenty of room to run these hoses beside the oem radiator. Just make sure awfterward that the foam is back in place.
Another thing you can do is --the heater hose that feeds the heater (the one that exits the engine on the driver side and goes up and crosses the firewall with that metal pipe) can be ran under the front subframe instead of across the firewall
. This also exposes a pretty long hose to a good bit of flowing air AND gets all that coolant heat away from the intake. It also cleans up the firewall a little.
The agled metal coolant pipe that comes out of the drivers side of the engine and feeds the heater hose can be twisted to point downward --it is only a press in pipe. This makes running the primary heater hose under the front subframe very easy.
The hole I drilled in the thermostat was a 1/8 or 1/16 --cant remember for sure.
Remember please that its a cooling system---so make sure the system is up to snuff before additions are added.
The return hose from the cooler is routed back to the thermostat housing. There is plenty of room to run these hoses beside the oem radiator. Just make sure awfterward that the foam is back in place.
Another thing you can do is --the heater hose that feeds the heater (the one that exits the engine on the driver side and goes up and crosses the firewall with that metal pipe) can be ran under the front subframe instead of across the firewall
. This also exposes a pretty long hose to a good bit of flowing air AND gets all that coolant heat away from the intake. It also cleans up the firewall a little.
The agled metal coolant pipe that comes out of the drivers side of the engine and feeds the heater hose can be twisted to point downward --it is only a press in pipe. This makes running the primary heater hose under the front subframe very easy.
The hole I drilled in the thermostat was a 1/8 or 1/16 --cant remember for sure.
Remember please that its a cooling system---so make sure the system is up to snuff before additions are added.
11-11-2009, 01:20 PM
#50
The return heater hose feeds the cooler. Thats the hose that is coming out of the firewall on the passengers side to the thermostat housing. I think my 1st post on this was not clear--sorry --old man brain.
The return hose from the cooler is routed back to the thermostat housing. There is plenty of room to run these hoses beside the oem radiator. Just make sure awfterward that the foam is back in place.
.
The return hose from the cooler is routed back to the thermostat housing. There is plenty of room to run these hoses beside the oem radiator. Just make sure awfterward that the foam is back in place.
.
I think part of my issue is that i need more flow through my secondary rad now that i've blocked off the oem rad with a big *** intercooler . Will try bigger hoses then go to a bigger secondary rad if that does not work .