upgradesRX

hes the best run with the greddy kit installed, other mods are sr high flow cat and midpipe and tanabe catback exhaust. the graph is very jumpy and seems to be due to the instability of the internal gate on the turbo as it will spike to .45 bar at 4300rpm and then jump around from .45 to .3bar and eventually only hold .3bar. i was hoping to see more from the kit than this, but i am getting ready to add a boost controller which i think should clear up the boost levels. im still running the stock emanage map and im considering changing to the map that mazda maniac posted.

cretinx

do you have huge rims?

my car with stock exhaust and cat, and huge 285s on the rear pulled a 220 whp and like 180 lbs of torque . . . . .

Thetitanium8

Am i reading that dyno right? seems kinda low.

RX-8fan01

that looks terrible and sad

twinturbosupra94

yeah for 4,5000 that is less then you would expect....but then again i can purchase a kit for 2,000...also is that on stock engine internals? I a newbie with rotory engines and i woudl like to know if this turbo looks safe for this car on stock internal and w/ a electronic boost controller. Looking for a turbo it to give me some kick and help me out with mpg when i need it to.

army_rx8

is that on an auto? i thought teh 6-speed's posted around 240 at the wheels?

that does seem awfully low

details please

army_rx8

hmm duh just looked at teh graph no way it's an auto b/c of the redline....dang..is that corrected? was it liek really hot and humid out or something?

upgradesRX

im running 18" volk le37t with kdw2 275/35 and they are not even as heavy as the stocker's. yes its a 6mt weather today was about 55 degree's and about 30 percent humidity, im also around 1000ft. above sea level. im thinkn that those are low numbers too since ive been hearing people talk about 240hp on stock rx's

Fanman

Look where he is starting from (156 whp), so 216 whp is exactly 60 whp. What Greddy claims. It says dyno jet but was it a Mustang dyno or something, or what are they correcting for. I had one dyno of mine that was "SAE" corrected & my stock car was 184 whp. They put more stuff that was "corrected" & was 150 whp.

IZoomZoomI

156 is the peak torque... not hp...

IZoomZoomI

upgrade: how do you have a high flow cat and a midpipe? i thought it was mentioned before that the sr motorsports hi flo cat is not practical for this application?

army_rx8

do you have a dyno plot before the turbo? the elevation will ahv esomethign to do with the number but i'm not sure how much...humidity adn temp aren't too bad...i'dsay the biggest variable is the altitude...this wasn't a sae corrected number was it?

army_rx8

i noticed after looking a lill closer at teh dyno graph taht in teh uper righ tcorner it says "CF: SAE Smoothing: 5" does anyone know what that means exactly?

Fanman

whoops sorry. I guess that is tq. a couple of things. Maybe your car dyno very low to begin with (a few RX8's dynoed around 150 whp stock). 2. the correction factors are a lot 3. Also you may want to have your mechanic check out what your boost is set at. When I got my unit it was boosting at 4 lbs. across the board, even though my Greddy gauge said I was boosting properly. On turning it up 2 lbs. & gained quite a bit more hp.

IZoomZoomI

he dynoed 178 before... he posted it a while back. its most likely the hi flow cat.

army_rx8

^is he throwing a cel? i heard that most people with the sr-motorsport high flow were throwing one with the turbo..going to stock cat helped out...i wonder how teh RP supercat would do with a turbo?

anyone know of someone runnign this set up? (greddy turbo and rp supercat)

Fanman

I have the SR Motorsports hi-flow cat on my car. and I was way above that. Is this the same place you took it to before & are they using the same corrections ? I took mine back & like I said the first time I did 184, then I went back and the first time (when I was boosting 4 lbs.) my mechanic told me I went from 150 whp to 190 whp at which point I told him it could not be right. Later, when we used "SAE" correction that we originally did & turned up the boost to 6 lbs./4 lbs. at peak I got 236 whp.

upgradesRX

yes the correction is sae factor 5 which is exactly the same as the na dyno of 178hp (the correction basically smooths the graph out and takes into account the climate in good conditions), the dyno is a dynojet and nothing is different between the na and turbo dyno other than maybe the climate. i can post the dyno with or without correction if you all would like to see it the different ways. i made three or four runs and all of them were considerably different from one another, i currently have no cel, but i have gotten one after driving the car for about 4 days, it came on upon start up, i have no way of checking so i cleared it and it has yet to come back on, its been about two days since it came on so i will see if its consistent with a time period. the sr midpipe doesnt seem to have any affect besides great spool time, which i think may be the reason for the boost dropping off in the higher rpms. i have a video of the dyno, i would post it but im not sure if it needs to be hosted from somewhere, if anyone knows how to please let me know and i will post the vid.

upgradesRX

yes the dyno is the same one, i basically own the dyno so i know all the conditions besides climate are the same.

Razz1

55 degrees is a good cool temperture.

What I'm interested in is the max HP. It shows 7,255 RPM

Max should be at 8,500 RPM

upgradesRX

yeah thats what i was thinking, but the boost falls off before that, im thinking that a boost controller will have to be put on to hold .4bar.

Nemesis8

iTrader: (3)

Maybe a compression test is in order.

Fanman

The reason the boost is dropping off is not the midpipe. The kit is designed to deliver 7 lbs. of boost, dropping to 5 at the peak. On introduction, it was stated that Greddy couldn't source colder plugs so to protect the engine they designed the kit this way. I had some similar effects on my car, in regards to the CEL. On CanScanning it we found that the engine was running very rich, and the ECU was picking this up & throwing the CEL. Seems like you have factored out everything else. My Greddy gauge was saying I was running .4 bar, but when we hooked up another boost gauge we were only turning 4 lbs. from the factory.

slavearm

How are you dynoing it? Did your ((ABS)) light come on? That was the teltale sign for instant crap map from the ECU. Once you start spinning the wheels on teh dyno, you only have a very limited period of time to get a decent reading before the ecu says... hmmm F-U! D/C the rear abs sensors next time. (Note: if it is getting real rich... welcome to ECU crap map. Watch the timing... it is probably also pulling a bunch of that)

As far as the CAT goes, that should just allow the turbo to spool up faster maybe free up some ponies, but should definately change your boost curve for the better.

I am also going to agree that a boost controller would probably smooth that out also.

rkostolni

CAn someone else with the Greddy turbo and Greddy ma post a dyno plot to see what it is supposed to look like.