i removed the dongle...much better...
still driveability issues...especially backfiring and transition bogging.
looking forward to downloading a better map.
good call on the dongle jeff...thanks

 

So what problems does removing the dongle solve? Today is the big day as soon as I get home this afternoon I will be ordering my Greddy Turbo, I already have my BOV and E-01 because I found a really good deal on them earlier. So soon I will be a part of the FI club!

 

not everyone has had the probs i had but for me i had terrible driveability problems. jerkiness and harsh transitions btwn boost and vacume, and other related probs. could be the software tuning and combo of previous mods such as my hi flow cat. anyway, i de-dongled per jeff and although i am still getting alot of backfire from the rich programming in the greddy map, the car is much smoother and more driveabe. i will download jeffs latest map soon and play aroiund with the BOV some more.
you will need to play with the maps because imo greddy did not do their homework...they just keep copying jefff.
jon appearantly kept his dongle (lucky guy!) and simply re mapped with great success. good luck on your instal and follow the order in the instructions...especially around the manifold, motor mount steps. out of order violations will cost you hours and hours of "fun" as i can attest to!:o

 

cool, thanks Rudy8. I assume we have the codes for the emanage to tune it? Do we need it if we have the E-01?

 

Well, I'm definitely losing boost somehow.
I just did a testrun of 1st-4th WOT and I'm only getting 5psi peak (34KPa) and 3psi avg (20KPa). I recorded it on the boost gauge and filmed it. Here's the short video (2MB) You can see it only reaches 5psi for a second then it's down to 3psi for the rest of the run.

I recently switched out the spark plugs and switched the leading ones with mazda's redesigned ones to help with hard starts and got the same trailing model. Also, Greddy recently updated my emanage map. Other than these two things, I haven't changed anything on my setup. I was consistently getting 7psi peak (48KPa) and 5psi avg when the turbo was first put on.

I'm going to switch back to the stock plugs today and test. I'll also check for leaks at all the tube connections. Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be?

 

That is exactly what mine was doing before I had the boost controller installed (Profec EO-1) and had it dyno tuned.

 

Pull your dongle (use lotion if you prefer) and load this MAP.

Life will be good.

 

I'll try that, I'm waiting for my emanage support tool to come in.
I'll check a few pages back to see what to disconnect and what a dongle does.

 

Can someone please tell my wat this DONGLE IS its drivin me nutz

 

It's part of the wiring harness that comes with the Greddy kit. Look about 2 or 3 pages back and MazdaManiac posted a picture of it



Also, I am not quite sure why my car is running fine with the dongle. I'm not having any issues at all. It's strange.

 

i dont know jon...there seems to be alot of uncertainty as to what to do. others have started new threads to cut down on revfiewing this whole thread for answers, but everyone keeps coming back here. were all afraid of a new thread!

here is an idea. why dont YOU start a new thread and call it greddy problems and solutions or something. since you have the credibility of mass readership, maybe we can cut down on the clutter. i for one am having continued problems and would like a SUMMARY OF EVERYTHING you and others have done that worked. i hate to keep pm-ing you guys with nit pickey questions youre tired of answering, but coiuld really use a summarization of your system.

andy

 

I'll talk to one of the mods to see if I can make a sticky post with the frequently asked questions about the greddy turbo kit. I'd probably ask them to lock it out so nobody would post there. That way all the frequently asked questions would be right there and you guys wouldn't have to search 100 pages of this thread for one answer that's probably been asked before. I'll work on that tomorrow.

 

Mazda maniac,
I'm removing the dongle now. Just to check, will the white/pink wire circled in the picture be left disconnected? It was connected to the vtec wire. Wondering if I read your instructions correctly. thanks,

 

Yeah, just pull that one and leave it.

 

great.
thanks

 

Would just zeroing out the VTEC map do the same thing as removing it?

 

It might, but part of the problem seems to be the box itself changing the impedance on the temp sender circuit.

 

Well I finally got around to ordering a new O2 sensor today. The 10 foot monster flame that shot out of my exhaust after my deflooding (while installing the turbo) fried it. :o

I call the Mazda dealer down the street and ask for the parts department ... I say I have an '04 RX-8 and need a price for a new O2 sensor. The first question I get is "Is that for the 4 cylinder or the 6?" -- dumbfounded I say that it is for the 2 rotor. After an akward pause -- I get "OK ..... so .... ummm ... you said an '04? ..... Oh I see it ..... we do make those again! .... WOW".

I am thinking to myself -- Holy Sh$t -- the parts guy doesn't even freaking know and the car has been out for a year and a half

Well -- he finally quotes me $305

Thank You MazMart -- got one coming for -- $100

 

Interesting. Which O2 sensor - front or rear?
I shoot flames all the time and mine are fine. Don't forget, the flames don't happen until the mix hits the tailpipe. The gas in the exhaust is still uncombusted as it passes the O2 sensors. It needs to mix with outside air to pop.

$300 or so is the list price on the rear sensor. The front lists around $600.
I got a replacement rear (the original was cross-thread in thte CAT, so I left it in place when I installed the mid-pipe) from Gaithersburg Mazda for $108.

 

I stripped my upstream O2 befor the cat and i have been waiting from mazda to get it ... they are charging me 195 $ but it was supposed to be here tuesday then wensday ... then it was the wrong one thursday so i supposed to be getting it today .... we will see i hope so i miss my car ....

Shane

 

It is the sensor before the cat. I just got an autoenginuity scanner and confirmed the CEL was a blown O2 sensor (bank 1 - the pre-cat sensor). This CEL came on right after the big flameshooting incident so I assume that was the culprit.

p.s. - the autoenginuity unit is a blast! Just learning how to use it. I got the Bluetooth version so it is really easy to hookup and use with the laptop.

I want to get some data off the rolling dyno features this weekend. I also want to get some data off my buddy's 350Z (intake and exhaust mods) for comparision -- should be interesting.

 

Looking forward to hearing about what you learn from the data.

CRH

 

Okay guys. I am starting to get Secondary Air Pump CEL's. It's random and comes and goes. Does anyone know how to spoof the ECU into thinking the airpump is working fine? I personally don't care about emissions, so I"m about to just rip the air pump out. It'll save some weight

 

Well, you would need to provide a full-lean signal from the second O2 sensor for about 30 seconds every time you start the car cold.
You could probably make a simple timed circuit that grounds the signal lead from the O2 sensor for 30 seconds when the signal output to the air pump is active.
Even a simple relay should work, though I would probably use a 100 ohm resistor to ground so that there is still a little signal output.

 

2 philodox: For the last 2 months i have the same problem. I go to dealership and they clear the air pump CEL. After first cold start CEL pops out. I dont have Turbo installed, maybe it is the problem in the air pump. Dealership still didnt change my air pump or checked enything, they say its a problem in K&N intake, but i had intake installed couple of months before without no problems. That is the only engine mod on my car. Did anyone else had the same problem? Or does any one know how to fix it.

btw, i am getting Greddy turbo installed in a couple of weeks so i would like to fix the problem before i install it.