greddy install with w/a intercooler
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greddy install with w/a intercooler
first post so take it easy....
used greddy turbo kit from ebay missing most of the inter cooler pipeing. $1800
ceramic coated exhaust manifold and down pipe(inside and out) $90
w/a inter cooler from frozen boost $150
bosch water pump $125
greddy oil pan used ebay $195
heat exchanger is a radiator from honda vfr with hyabusa fan attached $free
bov pipe and other inter cooler pipeing from seadoo 255 riva upgrade kit $free
greddy type s bov before intercooler and maf sensor
custom aluminum heat sheild $35
cobb ap $250 member on here
mm tuneing soon to come
swapping greddy crappy filter for airaid filter $45
axial flow shifter
walbro 255 fuel pump $90
agency power full exhaust with cat delete $195
used greddy turbo kit from ebay missing most of the inter cooler pipeing. $1800
ceramic coated exhaust manifold and down pipe(inside and out) $90
w/a inter cooler from frozen boost $150
bosch water pump $125
greddy oil pan used ebay $195
heat exchanger is a radiator from honda vfr with hyabusa fan attached $free
bov pipe and other inter cooler pipeing from seadoo 255 riva upgrade kit $free
greddy type s bov before intercooler and maf sensor
custom aluminum heat sheild $35
cobb ap $250 member on here
mm tuneing soon to come
swapping greddy crappy filter for airaid filter $45
axial flow shifter
walbro 255 fuel pump $90
agency power full exhaust with cat delete $195
Last edited by WHITE-WING; Jun 23, 2011 at 05:09 PM. Reason: new parts
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i will be running the maf after the inter cooler but i will be putting the factory screens inline to straiten the air out but i chose the inter cooler shape because the airflow thru it will aid in the straightening the air flow . my girlfriend is the best she works late nights with me in the garage trying to get this thing up and running
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any suggestions im open but plz do be nice . ow and jeff if you stumble accross this i hope you will chime in on weather or not you think this is something you will be able to tune for me or i live in fl. and cant find any tuners near jacksonvile if anyone has any places near me to tune
Interesting, props for doing it your way. You and I will get along just fine 
I have a current build going and I am using a air/water inter-cooler as well. My only critique is to consider heat wrap (tape, stick on sheets, etc) the heat shield and I'm not sure how it will run with your MAF placement but I'll let the tuners comment on that. Post up pics after you get the filter placement done.
This is the unit I am using. It was being used on a turbo Miata running 15lb of boost.
Check out my build thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/9krpmrx8s-boost-build-thread-214417/
I have a current build going and I am using a air/water inter-cooler as well. My only critique is to consider heat wrap (tape, stick on sheets, etc) the heat shield and I'm not sure how it will run with your MAF placement but I'll let the tuners comment on that. Post up pics after you get the filter placement done. This is the unit I am using. It was being used on a turbo Miata running 15lb of boost.
Check out my build thread.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/9krpmrx8s-boost-build-thread-214417/
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; Jun 23, 2011 at 12:02 AM.
Nice dude. I am a dog person myself.
I have lived with an a/w intercooler for about 3-4 yrs now?
Too bad the exit pipe on the intercooler is so small. In the long run it may be better to have a weilder place a same size as the maf pipe you are using? Maf's are really really sensitive.
Ok back to the a/w intercooler.
Just a few things
1- you cant flow the water throught it too fast
2- you dont have a big enough cooler for the coolant--believe me on this. You need a cooler that has more frontal area and is not as thick. it is actually better to use twin coolers plumbed in paralell --look at the pettit guys plumbing. I know --I have tried many different variations.
3- do not put a fan on the cooler--it does no good and gets in the way of air flow.
4- I didnt see your coolant tank? Are you just using the radiator capacity? Thats ok the volumne of the coolant is not that important but do remember that these water pumps are totally dependant on gravidy flow to supply it. They are not pressure supplied. Their flow rate really goes down if pressure is added. So mount the pump as low as you can from its source and make the source's pipe to the pump as big as you can.
5- sooner or later the water will satuate and your temps will be approx 25-30 F above ambient ( out of boost!) so have a way of monitoring your iat's and make sure your tune has coverage for these higher iats.
6- Take that RB a/c condensor screen off, you will need all the airflow to your radiator that you can get!
7- you can do the ice chest trick for those "race times" hehe.
8- install a separate water temp gauge to monitor the coolant temp in the a/w intercooler system. Pumps have been known to loose their prime, bad connection etc. That guage will insure that the system is working. UNLESS you are monitoring the iat's at that maf site. If you are doing that then that will be ok.
9- you could install a water meth system
interesting build
I have lived with an a/w intercooler for about 3-4 yrs now?
Too bad the exit pipe on the intercooler is so small. In the long run it may be better to have a weilder place a same size as the maf pipe you are using? Maf's are really really sensitive.
Ok back to the a/w intercooler.
Just a few things
1- you cant flow the water throught it too fast
2- you dont have a big enough cooler for the coolant--believe me on this. You need a cooler that has more frontal area and is not as thick. it is actually better to use twin coolers plumbed in paralell --look at the pettit guys plumbing. I know --I have tried many different variations.
3- do not put a fan on the cooler--it does no good and gets in the way of air flow.
4- I didnt see your coolant tank? Are you just using the radiator capacity? Thats ok the volumne of the coolant is not that important but do remember that these water pumps are totally dependant on gravidy flow to supply it. They are not pressure supplied. Their flow rate really goes down if pressure is added. So mount the pump as low as you can from its source and make the source's pipe to the pump as big as you can.
5- sooner or later the water will satuate and your temps will be approx 25-30 F above ambient ( out of boost!) so have a way of monitoring your iat's and make sure your tune has coverage for these higher iats.
6- Take that RB a/c condensor screen off, you will need all the airflow to your radiator that you can get!
7- you can do the ice chest trick for those "race times" hehe.
8- install a separate water temp gauge to monitor the coolant temp in the a/w intercooler system. Pumps have been known to loose their prime, bad connection etc. That guage will insure that the system is working. UNLESS you are monitoring the iat's at that maf site. If you are doing that then that will be ok.
9- you could install a water meth system
interesting build
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Nice dude. I am a dog person myself.
I have lived with an a/w intercooler for about 3-4 yrs now?
Too bad the exit pipe on the intercooler is so small. In the long run it may be better to have a weilder place a same size as the maf pipe you are using? Maf's are really really sensitive.
Ok back to the a/w intercooler.
Just a few things
1- you cant flow the water throught it too fast (any suggestions on how to slow water flow i am useing the temp sensor that comes on the bike and was thinking of useing a therm switch to turn on the pump to stop and go the flow)
2- you dont have a big enough cooler for the coolant--believe me on this. You need a cooler that has more frontal area and is not as thick. it is actually better to use twin coolers plumbed in paralell --look at the pettit guys plumbing. I know --I have tried many different variations. ( i will look in to other possible configurations)
3- do not put a fan on the cooler--it does no good and gets in the way of air flow. ( the fan was added because i live in fl. and the stop and go is bad i figured it would be good to have the option to supple air on demand )
4- I didnt see your coolant tank? Are you just using the radiator capacity? Thats ok the volumne of the coolant is not that important but do remember that these water pumps are totally dependant on gravidy flow to supply it. They are not pressure supplied. Their flow rate really goes down if pressure is added. So mount the pump as low as you can from its source and make the source's pipe to the pump as big as you can. (im useing 3/4 line for everything thats how big the openings on the pump and fill cap are. as for capacity tank we were getting everything running but the plan is 2-3 gallon reserve tank in trunk with ice opening )
5- sooner or later the water will satuate and your temps will be approx 25-30 F above ambient ( out of boost!) so have a way of monitoring your iat's and make sure your tune has coverage for these higher iats. good advice like i said i am runnnig a temp sensor from the heat exchanger and when mm starts tunning ill be sure to suggest)
6- Take that RB a/c condensor screen off, you will need all the airflow to your radiator that you can get! (im starting to look in to air duckting that some of the oter guys are looking at to aid in flow )
7- you can do the ice chest trick for those "race times" hehe.
8- install a separate water temp gauge to monitor the coolant temp in the a/w intercooler system. Pumps have been known to loose their prime, bad connection etc. That guage will insure that the system is working. UNLESS you are monitoring the iat's at that maf site. If you are doing that then that will be ok.
9- you could install a water meth system
interesting build
I have lived with an a/w intercooler for about 3-4 yrs now?
Too bad the exit pipe on the intercooler is so small. In the long run it may be better to have a weilder place a same size as the maf pipe you are using? Maf's are really really sensitive.
Ok back to the a/w intercooler.
Just a few things
1- you cant flow the water throught it too fast (any suggestions on how to slow water flow i am useing the temp sensor that comes on the bike and was thinking of useing a therm switch to turn on the pump to stop and go the flow)
2- you dont have a big enough cooler for the coolant--believe me on this. You need a cooler that has more frontal area and is not as thick. it is actually better to use twin coolers plumbed in paralell --look at the pettit guys plumbing. I know --I have tried many different variations. ( i will look in to other possible configurations)
3- do not put a fan on the cooler--it does no good and gets in the way of air flow. ( the fan was added because i live in fl. and the stop and go is bad i figured it would be good to have the option to supple air on demand )
4- I didnt see your coolant tank? Are you just using the radiator capacity? Thats ok the volumne of the coolant is not that important but do remember that these water pumps are totally dependant on gravidy flow to supply it. They are not pressure supplied. Their flow rate really goes down if pressure is added. So mount the pump as low as you can from its source and make the source's pipe to the pump as big as you can. (im useing 3/4 line for everything thats how big the openings on the pump and fill cap are. as for capacity tank we were getting everything running but the plan is 2-3 gallon reserve tank in trunk with ice opening )
5- sooner or later the water will satuate and your temps will be approx 25-30 F above ambient ( out of boost!) so have a way of monitoring your iat's and make sure your tune has coverage for these higher iats. good advice like i said i am runnnig a temp sensor from the heat exchanger and when mm starts tunning ill be sure to suggest)
6- Take that RB a/c condensor screen off, you will need all the airflow to your radiator that you can get! (im starting to look in to air duckting that some of the oter guys are looking at to aid in flow )
7- you can do the ice chest trick for those "race times" hehe.
8- install a separate water temp gauge to monitor the coolant temp in the a/w intercooler system. Pumps have been known to loose their prime, bad connection etc. That guage will insure that the system is working. UNLESS you are monitoring the iat's at that maf site. If you are doing that then that will be ok.
9- you could install a water meth system
interesting build
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im looking in to having the exit side of the intercooler cut off and a 3.5" pipe welded on so there is one less change in flow. ive looked at some other setups and im wondering if its going to be problem with the maf sensor so close to the throttle body other guys have theres really close as well. is it something mm is going to be able to tune around
Last edited by WHITE-WING; Jun 23, 2011 at 05:10 PM. Reason: miss typed
Where are your vacuum fittings? With a blow through MAF based system they need to be post MAF. You have to move the maf at least 6 inches away from the throttle body. Well you dont have to, but your on off throttle transitions and your idle will never be right.
You need to find a better place to put your intercooler. I recommend relocating your coolant overflow bottle to the firewall and putting the heat exchanger there.
You need to find a better place to put your intercooler. I recommend relocating your coolant overflow bottle to the firewall and putting the heat exchanger there.
Last edited by Highway8; Jun 23, 2011 at 06:14 PM.
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Where are your vacuum fittings? With a blow through MAF based system they need to be post MAF. You have to move the maf at least 6 inches away from the throttle body. Well you dont have to, but your on off throttle transitions and your idle will never be right.
You need to find a better place to put your intercooler. I recommend relocating your coolant overflow bottle to the firewall and putting the heat exchanger there.
You need to find a better place to put your intercooler. I recommend relocating your coolant overflow bottle to the firewall and putting the heat exchanger there.
Not that I know of. Your going to need to figure it out. A few people have moved the stock coolant bottle and others used custom bottle for the washer fluid, coolant, and added a bottle for the sohn.
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thank you is there a diy for relocating the coolant overflow because thats what i was looking at to push the intercooler twords the front to create more straight pipe i was going to reuse the greedy spots for vacuum but if i get the intercooler pushed forward then the added pipe would give a place for the vacuum lines
instead of moving the a/w cooler--move the TB? You will have to modify your oem intake, but somewhere I have seen it done?
It looks like from your pic that you can move the cooler over a little? Toward the fuse box, then you can go forward with it some?
I have ALWAYS wanted to relocate that fuse box--its in my way a lot of the time
It looks like from your pic that you can move the cooler over a little? Toward the fuse box, then you can go forward with it some?
I have ALWAYS wanted to relocate that fuse box--its in my way a lot of the time
instead of moving the a/w cooler--move the TB? You will have to modify your oem intake, but somewhere I have seen it done?
It looks like from your pic that you can move the cooler over a little? Toward the fuse box, then you can go forward with it some?
I have ALWAYS wanted to relocate that fuse box--its in my way a lot of the time
It looks like from your pic that you can move the cooler over a little? Toward the fuse box, then you can go forward with it some?
I have ALWAYS wanted to relocate that fuse box--its in my way a lot of the time
I think your best bet is to convert this back into a pull through system. It makes tunning much easier and you wont have to worry about the intercooler to MAF to TB airflow being smooth. And while you are at it, route the intake out of the engine bay.
I am trying to stay positive and not be critical but IMHO I think you have taken a Greddy kit that works stock, can and has been improved many times and in my ways and you have completely changed it. You have created potential tunning problems and you dont know how well anything is going to work when your done.
Good luck.
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thank you od and hw8 all good things to consider. saterday i finally removed the air pump. wow it makes alot more room i dont have a cat so ne need to just leave it in the car. i did take the factory bracket that holds it in and the resister for fuel pump and drilled the spot welds that hold the two peices together so i could bolt the resister back in with a factory look.