http://www.zex.com/Instructions/Files/ZEX121.pdf

Even the idiots at Zex do not publish that spec but I think purge kits are less than 10 amps. Something like 6-7, maybe.

 

Yeah and the ZEX switches don't have the amps either I thought about it again and went against many recommendations to use relays just because it was a hassle. I hope 25A is good enough for each for the activation, heater, and opener.

 

I'm going to go with 10A for the purge just to be safe. Doing all the wiring research now. Picking up a few things online. I'm big on doing a very professional installation, even though this is going to be a first for me. :D

 

What is that?

 

Just some POS power distrobution block. I decided against that and decided to go with a 100A rated stand-alone fuse block.

 

25A is more than enough.

 

Each of the switches seem to have an inline fuse so I probably won't do a fuse block. I am debating as to whether or not to use my dynotune pressure gauge as fuel or nitrous pressure gauge.

 

Well, after much thought and consideration, I decided to go the relay route as well.
The spot where I'm mounting the gauge and switches is very tight, and I need to run the minimum gauge wire as possible to the switches, and the relays can do the rest of the work from there. I've attached a wiring diagram that I came up with. I feel like I'm missing something. Take a look see if you will and let me know where you see the errors at. This is my first time doing something like this, so constructive criticism would be nice.

I don't plan on local grounding all of the relays and switches, I just put it like that on the diagram to avoid having to use colors. On the fuse panel there's a spot to sync in grounding, so the majority of the grounding will happen there.

 

Okay, got bored at work today and installed visio. Played around with it for a bit and came up with this version 2 diagram. Anyone?
Edit: The two big blocks in the upper left corner make up the fuse panel together. And the legend is off, lol. Sorry!

 

Looks good to me, I sent it to my father and a buddies who do electronics. I will let you know if there are any problems.

 

Awesome, Thanks!

 

Okay, I will let Hoss-05 (SARX electronics guru) comment on your schematic.

I finished up my install this weekend with the exception of installing the BHR TB spacer, tapping the TPS sensor, and actually spraying.

I installed a fuse block and grounding terminal in the engine bay, and ran power from the fuse block straight to the 3 switches (with inline fuse as well), then ran power from it straight back to the trunk for power on the heater (inline fuse as well), ran the two wires from the opener up the center console to the opener switch.

There is a good ground behind the shifter where I installed the switches and I sanded and drilled a spot on the truck floor for the ground of the bottle heater. I tested everything for goods grounds, power, etc. I will update with pics etc. when I am done.

 

Would love to see some pics of your install so far. What kind of sealant are you using on your connections?

 

I will try and get some pics this weekend for sure, we "tinned" (soldered the tips before inserting to the connectors) the wires and soldered all the butt splices, etc.

 

I was speaking more along the lines of what did you use to seal the connections in the hoses, but that's a good tip to.

 

Oh the nitrous pressure AN fittings do not need teflon tape or sealant. Only on the aeromotive fitting for the sensor did I use teflon. Definitely do not use Teflon tape on the fuel line connections.

 

Right-O

 

Use Teflon tape on NPT threads and nothing on AN fittings. The flare on AN fittings makes the seal, not the threads.

 

Yeah, I didn't think it made sense to seal a brass pressure fitting, but I had to ask.

 

Oh, and there is a guy locally selling a dynotune round 52mm nitrous pressure gauge for $50.00 if anyone is interested. It's unused supposedly and this gauge goes for $169.00 on dynotunes site.

I will wire up my fuel pressure gauge, nitrous pressure gauge, and be done with my install this weekend

 

I have been using my DynoTune fuel and nitrous pressure gauges since the beginning and they both still work perfectly.

 

I am using the square digital nitrous pressure gauge from Dynotune and a Prosport fuel pressure gauge. But I wish I had gone with the square digital Dynotune fuel pressure gauge. I will probably order that later, it just makes for a cleaner install.

 

Please post pics of your install when your finished 9k!

 

Will do

 

Ok here are some quick pics until I get things tidy. I don't have the Dynotune gauge hooked up yet and I don't know have a bottle gauge so I don't know how much nitrous pressure I have. I went and did a few runs and you can definitely feel it but not like the nitrous kit I had on my CRX.

I have never had a bottle warmer, is it supposed to feel warm? I checked voltage and its good at the warmer but without a gauge I don't know if it is warming or not because it does not feel warm.

And, I verified the NMU programing and it seems to be working okay from what I can see of the lights on the NUM but when the ignition is on, and you press the pedal can you really hear the solenoids? I actually think I can hear them when the activation switch is off.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5045070905/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5045070905/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

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