General Nitrous Questions
 

I thought we could start a thread generalizing ideas about installing nitrous in the 8. CRH had a great thread for years but it has since been deleted. But he is always willing to help and really knows his shit. So let's discuss questions, ideas, etc. about nitrous installs in the 8.


My recommendations:

1. Select a bottle location but keep in mind the manufactures recommendations (front to back orientation is best)
2. Use Aeromotive Fuel line adapter for nitrous fuel line and fuel pressure gauge placement. This makes going back to stock easy an pretty much eliminates the possibility of fuel leaks.
3. Get a good digital nitrous pressure gauge for the cabin and a good liquid filled gauge at the bottle.
4. Wire the power for all the switches through a fused distribution block from the battery, these switches draw some good amperage and from what I was told, the stock wiring in the car may not handle that depending on where you decide to tap.
5. Plan your install so that it looks tidy when finished.
6. Use high quality taps and connectors and a good crimp tool and cutters (Klein) really makes things easier.

ZEX likes the bottle to be at a slight vertical angle due to their internal pickup tube. If you can find another type of hose that will handle the N2o pressure (600/800psi. I would want something rated at at least 1000 psi.) than you can use it. Only hose I know I would use would be steel braided.

Thanks, I got this mount over the weekend and I am trying to think of the best way to mount it.

Easy, what do you think of this nylon tubing? Also, I see a lot of nitrous hoses that are -3 AN fittings and -6 AN. The ZEX kit is -4 AN correct?

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/...afc6198c_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/...e323026b_b.jpg

I found that NOS sells Nylon tubing for nitrous that is black but I have to get with my local fitting supplier and see if I can get the proper size fittings to fit that hose. If I can use this black hose then the install will be totally stealth. I am going to order the aeromotive fitting from BHR tomorrow and mount it on the fuel rail side so the install will be clean.

Got my fuel gauge this weekend, now I just need to get the Aeromotive fuel line fitting from BHR :)

Anyone know of a place that sells cool 12v switches? I looked around this weekend and nothing really looked promising. I need arming, bottle opener, heater.

http://www.mouser.com/electromechanical/_/N-5g1x/

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/sea...FRhuswod-wQC3g

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...EN-LED//1.html

http://www.oznium.com/switches

Thank you sir. Electromechanical is the keyword of the day :lol: The search filters on the Mouser site or the real deal. The 3rd link was key :)

i used to work for radioshack and they still carry a good selection of switches, especially if you dont want to order them

I looked at radio shack and they had a lot of switches but most of them were toggle switches. I think I found the switches I like but I will have to use a relay to get it all working right because the amperage of the switches I like is too low. A friend of mine (Hoss-05) is working on a diagram for me.

Okay so I received my Aeromotive fuel line fitting from the wonderful peeps at BHR. My dynotune gauge sending unit fits perfectly on the npt side of it and i went to my favorite hose fitting shop and bought a -6 AN to -4AN fitting and an elbow for the fuel line to the nitrous kit. They make them in black but i would have had to order them and didn't want to wait so maybe down the road i will switch it all out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655367/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655367/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655515/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655515/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655603/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4995655603/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

Note: use thread sealant (Teflon tape, paste, what have you) on the -6AN fitting where it threads into the Aeromotive adapter but NOT on the -4AN end where the fuel hose attaches.

Thanks.

Okay, I bought the kit used, but the 55 shot jets are 0.17 for fuel and 0.32 for nitrous right?

Yes, exactly.

Cool, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I had the right ones. Ray, I wish your old Nitrous thread was still up :lol:

I am thinking of using relays for the three switches I need (activation, heater, and opener) and I want to use my own switches but I could not find tech data on the Zex switches. What amperage do you think I need on the relays and switches?

iirc, 12, 15, 20.

Thanks I want to create a three relay block to run all three switches, Something like this.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4999637872/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/4999637872/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/9krpmrx8/, on Flickr

May I ask why? If you are gonna go through that hassle, did you happen to see DynoTune's nitrous controller gauge pod thing? One gauge spot and it'll control 4 different things.

Right here; http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=88

My father and another friend of mine in electronics said I need the relays to run better (more attractive) switches. O

Oh, that is cool. But where would I mount it, hmmmmmm. I just don't like the old style toggle switches much.


Thanks for the idea, I might be able to make this work. Dynotune still says I need at least a 20A relay. I hate electrical stuff :lol:


http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=212


What are your thoughts on the window switch Ray?

1) If your preferred switches do not have the proper current-carrying capacity, you will need relays.

2) They say 20A because that is about the most current a heater or opener will draw and it is always better to overspecify the switches and relays if you can.

3) Having run my nitrous well into the rev-limiter I can tell you that a window switch is not needed, and judicious use of your nitrous system renders them moot. To use a window switch you will also need an "RPM adapter" that converts the tach driver signal to an analog signal. I am too lazy to mess with all that nonsense so I just decided to be smart about how I use my own system.

Yeah I will just have to be careful under 4500.

After an exhausted night of searching for something I actually liked, I came across these.

Website
http://www.urban-neon-car-lights.com..._206847739.gif
I sent an e-mail to their support asking what the amperage rating was since it wasn't listed on the product description, they wrote back a few hours later:
So needless to say I bought a few. At $26.97 each they should definitely be high quality. They come in both toggle and momentary. As soon as I get them installed and test them out, I'll definitely put up a product review, and some more pictures. I'm a big fan of these, hopefully I'll have a good review.

Those are nice but I couldn't find them with amperage's that high so I went with simple black 25A switches from Radio Shack.

I got red.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...JL._SS500_.jpg

Can't go wrong with simplicity.

Charles,

The non-lighted version of the nitrous purge kit, know off the top of your head the amperage for that? I'm pretty sure it's 15.