Gearsofts SC Thread
 

Just wanted to show off my install. Runs great! I haven't brought it to a real tuner yet but I did a pretty descent job for now. I added a toggle button by the shifter so I can run it like Mad Max. If I leave it on I have the SC clutch set to come on at 30% throttle. Also added a bypass solenoid powered by co2 to hold open the bypass/boost control when the SC is off. Please feel free to comment or ask me questions. I included the maps I'm using (intercepts on the injectors and coils).

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b1c0057705.jpg
Just installed this Blitz supercharger. Got it used from Japan for $1500 but didn't have computer or some or the brackets. I setup an E-Manage piggyback and some other upgrades.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8a3c8b67cb.jpg
Primary Fuel Map
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...99f511c2eb.jpg
Secondary and Primary 2 Fuel Map
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2a724948bc.jpg
Leading Ignition Map
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a21475a4eb.jpg
Trailing Ignition Map

Watch the e-Manage. We quit using them eons ago because the ECU would trim them out and you never knew what they were doing...

Cool build, I've never see that kit before (but my focus was nearly 100% on turbo). I'll double down on Dannobre's E-manage comment, keep an eye on it, and when you find yourself with the budget I'd recommend swapping to the Adaptronic stand alone PNP ECU. Guys have been tossing E-Manage in the dumpster since before I went FI back in 2010 even.

Happy Driving!

Thanks guys, I was concerned about the E-Manage and tried to find a way to put the oem ecu into open loop by disconnecting the o2 or fooling the throttle position but had no luck with this. I have been keeping an eye on the trims and have an afr gauge in the car along with the boost controller that I'm looking at. I've been driving it for a week now and don't see it changing yet but I drive it a lot with the sc off and the bypass open so the oem ecu keeps the trims normal and then I use the madmax toggle in the car like a nitro boost to activate the supercharger whenever I need (for speed) it. I have definitely been looking at the Adaptronic standalone and will probably upgrade to it. I might just drive it like this for the summer and then I need to take the sc off for smog in October and may do another rebuild then. My current rebuild already has 40K on it. I replaced the housings and apex seals but didn't machine the steals or replace the oil seal steals or side seals so I'm hoping the aluminums are good when I do the next rebuild... Doesn't burn a drop of oil from the sump with the sohn mod and I also have VersaTuner installed and have the oil map increased for the 2-stroke oil. I did a lot of the mods and had the E-Manage installed before putting the sc in so that I could have it at stage zero before the major upgrade I just did.

You do know the Versatuner will tune what you need properly????

I know I could use versatuner but I couldn't think of a clean way to use the MAP sensor and triggering the SC clutch and it might be tricky with it not being on all of the time. I also want to keep it a bit of a sleeper on the road too and I'm in a state that would frown on this mod.

interesting, good job

to say it’s frowned upon there is an understatement. No way is that not just a visual inspection issue alone. :Eyecrazy:

Been getting too much time at home with the corona crap so I've been tuning the 8 and adding more stuff...
The latest mod...I put an air solenoid and tank under the hood to hold the wastegate open on the supercharger and added a Mad Max button on the shifter (used a cheap shift nob for now). I can still lock the SC on or use the MM button for boost on demand. Added an arduino and programmed it to handle this misc stuff and keep track of the air tank pressure...
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...99a7af55b2.jpg
Shot of the air tank, solenoid, keg regulator and the arduino.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...29da6e00c2.jpg
Boost controller, AFR gauge and the SC on-demand buttons.

Clever...

but why would you have a SC installed and NOT want to use it? And I get you may not need /want full boost all the time, and may want to ease engine load...; but why not just govern load via throttle? :dunno:

I hear what you're saying and the SC power is a lot of fun but with this kit it's designed with a clutch on the compressor and comes on at 30% throttle. The power is instant, not like a turbo, and gives a good kick. This is not good in turns (which reminds me, I need to make a new strut tower brace) because it breaks the tires free to easy. One of the buttons I have next to the shifter locks it into full SC mode and turns on at 30% throttle, if I turn this off, bypass mode, it still lets the compressor turn on at 30% but leaves the bypass open so it doesn't get boost but also there is no intake obstruction and it runs like a normally screaming NA. I can then just hit the shift button and get instant boost, kind of acts like NOS. I also think the kit from Blitz was flawed in the sense that they had the bypass shut, as it is only controlled by the boost controller, and intake for the engine has to go through the compressor so it actually makes the compressor freewheel just from the intake air while it's idling and driving under 30% throttle. Adding the solenoid and air controller to keep the bypass open while the compressor is off lets the intake air go through the bypass while the compressor isn't being powered and then hands off control to the boost controller when the compressor turns on, in full SC mode. I really like how it works now, I get the fun great handling screaming NA car we all love and the extra power when I want it (which is usually all of the time). I'm also getting better gas mileage now then I used to. Was at 14 to 15 now I get 16 or better. Also with this SC kit it starts and idles normally and is a real sleeper.

Ah... understood. The compressor clutch engagement at 30% w/b an issue...omg in the rain... :uhh:

Kudos for the creative work around solutions to get the best out of the kit and enjoy the car. :icon_tup:

Is there no way to reduce the compressor clutch activation point to a % which engages power & torque more smoothly?

...b/c as you said desire to have the "extra power"...at least at the ready...is nearly all the time. :ylsuper:

The kit I bought was used and not complete. I got it off ebay from someone in Japan. The Blitz site had the manual but it was all in Japanese and the pdf conversion to english was not the greatest. I needed to find or make all of the missing parts, the computer that came with it was not from the original kit so I threw it out and ended up getting a Greedy E-Manage. So I tried to set everything up as best as I could based on the original design of this kit and a few extras I thought would help, like adding a map sensor to base the fuel and ignition maps off of instead of the maf. I setup an aux output map in e-manage to trigger the compressor clutch at 30% and did do a little change at lower rpm to turn on at a little higher throttle.

I recently found a production car, the Toyota MR2, that uses a clutch SC which help to confirm my ideas of using the bypass open to help when the compressor is off. 86-89 MR2 Supercharged edition MR2s. They say they are using the manifold pressure to turn on the SC and I could do that, look at the attached picture of my aux map, but I'm thinking it may setup a loop that won't turn off the SC once it turns on, plus I already have it tuned pretty good and really don't like the tuning part of this as it's kind of nerve racking when you run lean and start getting knock.

Anyway, I'm including a few more pics of my build experience for your viewing pleasure.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...27a0c729a4.jpg
Greedy map the turns on the compressor at ~30%

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5808484dd1.jpg
Kit I bought off ebay for $1600 shipped directly from Japan. Took 2 months to get here.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6b9618e6fc.jpg
Full kit from Blitz. Cost $8k or $9k new back in '04.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...aae5c60260.jpg
Making my own wiring harness.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e57a85a6fb.jpg
What a pain!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c140fbe1a3.jpg
...but worth it in the end. Got the computer and some other mods in the car and running, stage zero, before adding the SC.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d89dc40a24.jpg
Out with the old..

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bc14641067.jpg
...in with the new!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7d969e7f4e.jpg
the devil is in the...
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c0b011d542.jpg
...details

Gearsoft,

Great work, man! That is quite a feat...sourcing a used kit from Japan at <20% cost + shipping, customs, etc....w/out installation manual in your own language. And the harness wiring work...very nice. Just wiring my gauges gave me the pita feeling. :rofl: Well done. :score:

Well given what you had to work w/ you've done an awesome job, ...but I have to think that transitioning to MAP control of the SC, which is what the combustion chamber actually "sees", would have to provide better performance than throttle % tuning control. Comparing it to the turbo system design w/ which I'm familiar...exhaust is the turbine motive force, in your case its the pulley. We use a WG to bypass exhaust (motive force) around the turbine to govern the high end. IFF your SC clutch is S/W controlled... perhaps you could tune / govern your SC clutch in the same way: i.e. rather than engage the SC on the front end..., transition to MAP control..., let the SC spin up freely...progressively..., then tune the clutch to govern against over-boost on the high end. :dunno:

How much boost and HP is the kit generating?

Thanks jcbrx8! Really appreciate the positive encouragement. This is definitely a work in-progress and I'm sure I'll make more changes. One will most likely be to upgrade to an Adaptec standalone ECU and dump the e-manage, although the e-manage is doing a pretty good job and not un-tuning itself by fighting with the main rx8 ecu, I think since the main ECU doesn't see AFRs low all of the time since the SC isn't always on, that it keeps the fuel trims normal.

This kit was designed to make 0.37 to 0.42hkPa (5.4 to 6.1 psi) and seams to do a good job at that. I'm not sure the HP gain but I am planning to dyno it when the pandemic is over. Just a guess I would say maybe 30 to 40 HP. I may be way off but just a guess.

I did rebuild this motor almost 3 years ago with new aluminums and apex seals. Some minor porting and other mods too. Has about 35k on the rebuild and still runs well. I'm planning to pull it again sometime, as we all need to plan owning these beast, and I'll lap the steals and have them re-nitrided by chipsmotorsports. Also I'll buy the new side and oil seal hard parts. maybe even have the rotors balanced.

More pics!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e50cb3d33a.jpg
My fresh rebuild, June of 2017
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...46332936bc.jpg
...more rebuilding
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b5877e283b.jpg
Ready to go!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5feaa59c7f.jpg
it's really a Ogura TX12 compressor...
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...144443757a.jpg
...just something fun, found these door emblem projectors on ebay and installed in both doors

👍. Will be watching with interest...

All the best.

Wow, that Blitz setup is really something! I love to see different SC setups, but most have died off at this point (Blitz, Knight Sport, Hymee, and really even Pettit by now). Very neat and exotic, I love it! I wish someone in the US would simply scan this into some CNC machinery software and replicate the major pieces, it seems like a great little setup!

So I've had some belt issues lately, snapping my third belt today (the first one snapped back in December and a piece of the goddamn thing got wrapped around my eccentric shaft behind the main pulley and sliced open my front main seal causing oil to constantly squirt out of the front of the engine and coat everything with oil from the pulleys slinging it everywhere), so that was an expensive bitch and a half to get fixed - I got it repaired by by the resident Rotary Expert at Aero Automotive here in SoCal though, who I have to say did a great job at least). Finally figured out that it's because my tensioner pulley bracket was bent - likely from the previous owner having to torque down the tensioner to prevent belt slippage because they only had the stock Pettit pulley and not the wider 6-rib setup like I do now, which was causing the belt to constantly slide towards the forward edge of the pulley and rub against the pulley edge "wall", which was evidenced by the front-facing side of the belt always being frayed/mangled and stretched when they would fail. So, I got a long crowbar and wrapped it in cloth so as not to scratch anything, then leveraged it against the front/side of the compressor with the tip behind the back of the pulley-bracket, and managed to carefully bend it forward a few millimetres, and now the belt (I have multiple belts in my garage now because I ordered several on Amazon haha) is just about centered on the pulley and no longer forward or touching the edge of the pulley - you can see from the new contact patch/stripe on the pulley in the picture after a test drive. Sorry for the engine bay being so damned filthy right now - but fingers crossed, no more snapped belts! :eyetwitch

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0a1707dfd7.jpg
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In other developments, I've been wondering for awhile why they ran the coolant loop return hose directly over the super-hot engine block and right between the super-hot alternator and compressor. I saw a picture online of a Pettit setup with the hose routed in a longer loop around the back and side of the engine bay, avoiding all the super hot stuff in the center altogether - and incidentally I had a bunch of hose left over from my install, so I mimicked that setup hoping to take a few extra degrees of heat out of the coolant loop. Also, unrelated, I painted my brake booster reservoir black with a yellow cap to match my windshield wiper fluid reservoir just to have a sense of symmetry.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...558993e605.jpg

Seeing what you guys think of this potential mod for my car. I found where someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum on the same kit I have and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. My kit didn't come with an intercooler but I don't think it really matters too much just driving on the street and not having the SC on all the time since it's on a clutch. But I am thinking about starting to track my car over at laguna seca raceway track that's close to where I live and the SC may start to add too much heat and kill the FI potential (and the motor)

Not my car just a picture I found where someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler on the same kit I have.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...70c741066b.jpg

This is my SC setup currently. Getting pretty crowded under the hood, I may need to rethink this layout a little especially if I do an intercooler install like the one above.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...21a4ee2365.jpg

Gearsoft,
Cooling the charge is a matter of protection and power. I wouldn't run a kit w/ out it. The density of air has an inverse relationship to temp.... as temp is reduced, density increases, and other things being equal...a denser charge generates more power. So, charge cooling is good mitigation against engine killing detonation :score:, and can sufficiently reduce IAT enough to increase HP by 10-15%. :icon_tup:

Having gone thru the trouble of installing FI, turbo or SC, on my car, I would not run it w/out charge cooling of some sort, e.g. IC, or W/M. :nono: The more... the better.
- first to mitigate against the risk of detonation
- second to optimize the performance of the kit. For ex. if ~260 HP feels good, imagine ~300 HP. :ylsuper:

Really appreciate the feedback jcbrx8! So I'm thinking I'll start by adding W/M and put off the IC for later this year when I have to pull the SC off to get the 2 year smog done. Got any suggestions for a kit ? I'm looking at a Snow Water/Meth injection system, maybe a stage 1 to start with. Also, I'm reading that the injector needs to go on the boost side of the compressor. Looking at my SC kit I may just drill and tap into the SC output manifold and put the injector there or there is already a plugged nipple in that same manifold that I can just use the already tapped hole.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0923444cb3.jpg
inject W/M here?

Let me know what you think or anyone else how wants to chime in.

something is better than nothing I suppose, but that barrel cooler seems a bit smallish to have much effect.

E85 fuel would likely be much more effective for engine protection and performance than that little thing, but a 35% fuel economy drop is quite a wallop when you’re lucky to get 15 mpg on gasoline :uhh: At least it’s cheap if you have access to it.

My 2 cents:

I'm not going to run water/meth. There's been a few posts in this thread (good luck finding them but I read the whole damn thing) about the issue of water not fully evaporating in the charge and then when you turn the engine off, the water sits in the engine and can cause it to rust (a little bit, but it'll add up). You could add a switch to turn off the water injection manually, so a few miles from home you can turn it off and let any residual moisture clear out. But then you're running part time with no water, so you might as well just not run it at all.

I can't tell you I don't have any experience with this, but it makes sense to me and it worries me, so I'd rather not have it and just keep to an 8psi pulley and stay safe. Also, I hate putting holes in things and regretting it later and not being able to fix it.

Again, just my opinion here, you do you.

Gearsoft,

The injection location sounds correct, but have no experience w/the kits. I concur w/Team E85 is another great alternative. I run an IC (cooling) and E85 mix, E30, (protection). Investigate all your options.

Also curious... what gauges do you have...what are you monitoring?

E85 is not really an option for me since the nearest location is about 60 miles away.

For monitoring I have an afr meter connected to my Innovate Motorsports LC-2 and a Blitz boost controller. Been also using Torque to watch water and cat temps, running a super cat, and watching fuel trims to make sure the ecu isn't de-tuning the e-manage piggyback. Got to reset the ecu some times with the 20 pedal pump if the trims start moving up, but most of the time trims are good.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ebbf449d6f.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...26a46ae644.jpg

Any suggestions for other vitals I should be monitoring?

In addition to afr, and boost...I run and recommend coolant, intake air, and oil temps w alarms a must. I check stft, ltft, and cat temp back at the house. :icon_tup:

You can solve this simply by adjusting the fueling at idle and cruise so it holds close to 14.7 without any trim.

Decided to go for a WM option so I picked up a Snow Performance kit! I just wrote a bunch of details and then lost the draft so I'll just post my progress as I add everything.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1e214fc67c.jpg
The bracket and pump ready and the wiring and WM line connected and tucked away. I ran the wiring and WM line out a grommet in the trunk and under the car on the fuel line rack up to the engine bay.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...95e59a8970.jpg
Looks pretty clean!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0bdc75d02a.jpg
Ran the WM line and wires from the trunk, under the car and hung them on the fuel line rails all the way up to the engine bay. Now the fun part!

Water-Methanol is awesome!!!:SHOCKED:

The Snow WMI kit is all installed and kicking ass!!! Bumped the boost to 8.5 peak and turned off all of the timing retard I had in the piggyback, also leaned out the injectors a ton to get the AFRs in the 12s!!

Here's a few more build pics and a short video of my testing before putting the manifold back in. (my son asking a bunch of questions too...)

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8f37b25297.jpg
Drilled and tapped into the intake manifold. The drill press makes it so much easier to start the thread straight!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...6d0bef8060.jpg
All back together. Left an extra loop to install a flow sensor as a fault-safe to add to the Arduino program.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5cc27e9c90.jpg
Finished the initial tune and bumped up the boost! Set the controller to 85% and got 8.5 PSI Boost!!! (.59 hkPa X 14.5)

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5d43b1a002.jpg
Now that it works I'm adding a pressure sensor on the WMI line so I can tell if I get any failures. I'll wire it to the Arduino and program it to shut off boost if I get a failure. Also found a board that can convert a 0 to 5vdc out on an extra map I have in the emanage to 0 to 12vdc so I can make the pump proportional based on boost and RPM.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4bcf5458da.jpg
Getting pretty busy on top of the piggyback. I'm starting to think about putting all of these extra controls in another project box.

Added the pressure sensor on the WMI line and programmed the Arduino to look for pressure in the line every .5 secs while the WM pump is on and to shut off the SC, bypass and WM pump if there's a pressure drop. This should cover any failure in the WMI system like electrical, pump failure or broken WM line.

Just did a little more tuning and found that I only need the emanage to add extra fuel on the primary and secondary injectors and that I didn't need to have the primary 2 injectors add any extra fuel so I took them out of the emanage maps.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...48ad3c2a70.jpg
Here's the second gear pull part of the run I did after taking out the primary 2 injectors from the emanage fuel map. Stays in the 12s while in boost. I turned the boost down to 7 psi while I'm still dialing it in. The blue line is boost and you can see it does tapper off as the rpm goes up.

I had some issues with proportional controls on the WM pump so it's still wide open after the SC turns on but I did add a 1 second delay for it to come on after the boost and I also leave the SC clutch engaged for 3 seconds after I let off the throttle so it doesn't have to turn off and on between gear shift.

Using a lot of "Boost Juice":40oz: while in boost so if I don't get the proportional working I may need to get a bigger tank.:FIREdevil

how do you control the supercharger clutch off/on with e-manage ?

Dilshan, post4915589 explains this and shows the auxiliary output map I'm using. The map is based on throttle position and rpm. I'm running this auxiliary on/off signal to an input on an Arduino Nano that does the actual control of the clutch by outputting to a relay and so the arduino can disable the SC clutch if it see an issue with the WM injection pressure or if I just have it turned off with a toggle I have in the car.

Nice.. i have the same system on my rx8 with the blitz control box..so far no issues. i knw heating is a issue with this system.. what do you think of putting a front mount intercooler somehow.... will it add a lag ?

hope you find your way to this new thread... maybe we can get some traction on this thread and see some other SC kits and customization to them!

I put in an air tank and use a solenoid to open the bypass valve while the SC clutch is off. It seams like I don't have as much power in NA with it closed and I like the idea of not free wheeling the compressor if it doesn't have to. I have a pressure sensor in the air tank too that the Nano monitors if the tank is low on air because I have it programmed so that if I'm out of meth or just have the SC turned off the SC clutch still engages at 30% throttle to turn on the compressor but the bypass stays open so I don't get any boost but still get all of the air I need to not bog down the motor in NA mode. It sounds like your setup runs normal without this, maybe I have some issues with mine like an intake leak or maybe my motor is just tired... anyway I'm doing another rebuild in September so we'll see how it looks inside from running boost and also from the WMI keeping the inside of the motor clean.

If you look at post #17 I found a picture on someone who modified the kit to take an air to water intercooler but TeamRX8 pointed out that it may not do a great job because of the size of it, so probably a normal air to air intercooler would be the best. How are you planning to route it from the Blitz setup? If you have any pictures of your setup please post them.

Thanks for creating a new thread for this topic.. love your build.. looks so dope..i knw wmi is a good idea.. i want to to put a air to air intercooler some how as its very simple and effective.

I'm planing to put the piping under the battery box and take it to the front side as i deleted the air pump.if not will try to mount the intercooler inside the engine bay.. yet to speak with the guy who is doing the custom intercooler job.. but i like the idea of having a front mount intercooler. I think It looks cool . But don't knw how it will effect the normal driverblity when the supercharger is off.it might add some restrictions as N/A air has to pass through the intercooler..Any idea? what if i put a bypass system between intake side and after the intercooler side?

This is my setup

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...cc3ddd984.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e795ee42b.jpeg

Great looking setup! I haven't seen very many Blitz installs, I think I may have the only left-hand drive install. I like the dampener you have installed to the top of the compressor, looks like a good mod to help with the extra weight and save the motor mounts from wearing out sooner.

Modifying for an intercooler with this kit might be tricky. I'm not sure if you saw my post about where I found a picture that someone installed a PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum and extending and welding it on the other side to get the intercooler to fit. Is this what you're thinking about doing or do you have another way to get the are from the compressor to the air to air piping and over to the intercooler and back? I don't know that you would need a bypass but if you're going though all of this trouble to install the intercooler you could always at least make a place to install one later if you need it.

Great to see someone with a few clues get into this setup and see what it can do. I know there have been quite a few disastrous installs done.
Watching with interest.

Thank you,yes.that dampener will help..its very rare to find blitz setup for rx8s..but i like the idea of having a clutched supercharger ..i think its a very clever design except for some flows..my goal is to make more power somehow..
yes i have seen PWR Liquid to Air Barrel Intercooler setup before..as you said i dont think it has a big effect.

my plan is to get the compressor air re-route and send it through the intercooler by cutting the cast aluminum part .will make a way to bypass the intercooler for normal operation as if long piping and all add restriction..yet this is a theory..

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7919939b5.jpeg
Found Some interesting setups with Nos..i think these are from japan


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...23e082675.jpeg

Oh dear ...kinda looks like someone installed an IC without understanding how it's supposed to work !

maybe it’s a hot-cycle setup? :suspect:

I'd be interested to see a proper intercooler install on this kit. Are you planning to do this any time soon? I'd like to add an intercooler but it's a lot of work with this kit so please do it and show us how to do it the right way!

The program I wrote for the arduino nano got too big so I upgraded to a nano every and connected a bluetooth ble module so I could interface with this remotely from inside of the car to see what the program is doing and to be able to change some of the timing parameters on the fly. So now I'm moving the wiring mess on top of the piggyback and working on rewiring the arduino and relay board into a separate aluminum box and using aviation connectors and separate plugs for power in and all of the outputs to the clutch, bypass and WM motor and all of the inputs coming back. Should be a lot cleaner looking when I'm done.

Here's a screenshot from my phone of the interface I created using Bluetooth Electronics. I tried a few different interfaces and this one had the best options and auto connect and startup support for a wide range of connections for free software. This software was easy to customize and the modifications to my c code were minimal.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...fb00f65927.jpg
Bluetooth Electronics interface to my Arduino Nano Every w/BLE module.
I have the delaySCoff currently set to 4000ms, this keeps the SC clutch engaged for 4 second after the throttle drops below 30% so I can shift gears without the clutch having to reengage, no boost lag between gear shifts! The delayWMon waits to turn on the WM pump, 400ms currently. There are a lot more setting in the software that I added but these are the ones I'm focusing on now.

wow you have lot of hightech stuff.watching with interest.I'm not good at all the programming and tuning stuff like you..yes im planing to install the intercooler soon when the covid issue is over..my goal is to make 300 WHP. If required i may change the alternator double pulley with a slightly bigger one.. Belt slip will be a issue.i saw your youtube videos. Very impressive .how did you manage to stop the belt slip

Any plan to do a dyno to see the power? why did you use emange Piggyback instead of versatuner for tuning? I'm still thinking to go with the versatuner or adaptronic sandalone for future power upgrades

Dilshan,

The belts do require some maintenance but from what I deciphered from the manual you need to keep them very tight, only about 2mm deflection for 22lbs of pressure, which you can do easily with the adjusters. Obviously not so tight that you wreck the bearings in the alternator (the main belt hub for this system).

Here's the Japanese to English and how I deciphered it.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...044f829837.jpg
98N is the pressure you need to put on the belt and 2.0 - 2.8mm is the short belt deflection and 2.3 - 3.0mm is the long belt deflection

I'll wait to dino, I'm actually planning a rebuild. The build I did in 2017 only has about 35K miles on it but I only did the apex and replaced the rotor housings. I did the corner seals and the soft oil o-rings but left the old side seals and old springs. The motor has always run great but never had great compression, only measured 80lbs after the rebuild. Still runs good but I think I can get a lot better power if I go back in and do a complete rebuild and even lap and re-nitrid the housings.

As for using e-manage and not versatuner. Versatuner can tune all of the tables but I didn't see a way to use the MAP sensor or trigger the clutch at 30% throttle. Also I'll be using another table to vary the speed of the WM pump. Look at some of my other post to see the tables. Like some of the other guys have said, if you can afford the adaptronic standalone you should go that route. But for now the e-manage was cheap and it's working for me.

Decided to pull the motor and do a rebuild. It's been 3 years now since the last rebuild and compression was never that great. I sent out the irons to Chip's and had them resurfaced and renitrided and got a complete seal kit from Racing Beat. I thought I was going to reuse the aluminum housings but it looks like I picked up something in the front chamber that scratched it pretty good. Not on the compression side but I decided to buy some new ones, again, and sell these old ones on eBay for a few bucks, only 30,000 miles on them and the other one is like new. All my parts are here so it's going back together this weekend.

I'll get it smogged and then the Blitz SC and WMI goes back on!!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4ee8e93339.jpg
Bad scratch! maybe I got it when my Racing Beat air filter fell off one time.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0a1971398b.jpg
Resurfaced and new ones!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...1c896301b5.jpg
Rotors cleaned, rebuilt and ready to go!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...29b168eb7e.jpg
All new seals!!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...43992608d1.jpg
First housing on the stack with a new main bearing in it.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e89c72ad4f.jpg
My new clutch. Thought Id try this CenterForce with a dual friction disc. a lot of cool features, hopefully works as well as it looks!

Finished the rebuild and dropped it in on labor day. I needed to wait on some new oil injector (bolts) and clean and add a rebuild kit to the fuel injectors before I could finish it off. But it fired up on Saturday and looks like it's going to be a real beast!
--> <-- (not the greatest video but wanted to document it) - Got about 180 miles on it at the time of this post so I'm still babying it, keeping it under 6k till it breaks in and the new clutch seats.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7d2dd29454.jpg
Dropping in the fresh rebuild. The trans got a rebuild too and went in the day before

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f0c43bc9b7.jpg
First start, back to stock...for now...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f31fd69353.jpg
Building the stack went smooth once I figured out the side seal clearance.
Transmission in the background that I replaced a few of the synchros and bearings in it. Also sleeved the input shift so no more leaks from that!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e4761768bb.jpg
Left the oil pan on loose until I got a new strainer seal. So dumb the gasket kit doesn't come with one!

I'm part way through a build and found one of these blitz supercharger cheap so I picked it up just wondering what there like pick up and response wise? Anyone know how much boost they actually put out? And has anyone played with the pulley to increase boost
Going to be running a 13B-MSP bridgeport supercharged and on E85.

well hopefully you’ll search “bridgeport” on here before making that mistake

a Renesis is not like the previous 13B engines ...
.

So what is the big downside of bridgeporting a reni motor?
I did have a look and couldn't find any proof about bridgeport the renesis just people walking themselves on a forum
yes I know the msp is different to any other rotary

ok then, go ahead and show us something that nobody else has been able to do for the last 17 years then.

no, you’ll just shoot yourself in the foot just like they all did blindly doing what was done in the past without understanding why it won’t work.

or worse than your foot even


.

Mate How's that what actually happens with the reni motor with a bridgeport I'm looking for info

start here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...5/#post4927322


then here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...6/#post4927399


and here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...2/#post4928668


a general overall summary here:

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo.../#post12441186


then go read every bridgeport thread and post on here. You won’t find a single dyno or comment on here that confirms to be a benefit other than people with no credibility talking seat of the pants nonsense and fluff. Adding overlap on a Renesis is going to hurt both low and high end performance, if not side seal durability too; a well know Renesis issue exacerbated by porting.
.

.