hey interesting stuff fellas! good work...
Do you think the overheating is more a problem in hot countries / areas, as we don't seem (touch wood) to have this happening in the UK......

 

I think that it should be more modifications\tuning\engine temps related than ambient temps.

FI cars usually have different fuel delivery requirements, the pump works more in high output" mode and overheats.
Same concept should apply with cars running hotter because of bad maintenance like gutted catalyzers and worn coils\fouled spark plugs. The relation with the gutted cat seems logic, i never got why the cars that i saw with worn coils were running with higher temps.

 

Dear all

I have experience
1) Fuel pump failure after constant driving (abt 3hrs of highway driving),
2) Fuel starvation on track (when accelerating just after a constant left hand turn on 3/4 tank)

However, I have just installed the walbro 255lph fuel pump recently.
For normal daily driving, not much issue nor difference except a soft whine where the fuel pump is.
Will try it on the track and having a 4 hr highway drive to the track to see whether the two symptoms experienced above reoccured.

Will post an update after the trackdays.
Would love to hear feedbacks from you guys too

Cheers
Alan

 

For the hardcore track enthusiast, don’t forget you can add a fuel reservoir in the trunk with the stock pump feeding it in a loop and use an external pump to the fuel rail. The stock pump will out flow the modified one because there will be no pressure where the stock pump feeds the external reservoir. This also aids in back to back cornering when low on gas in the tank. The reservoir usually can hold about 1 quart of gas, enough for a minute of driving time. But that won’t happen unless you’re doing 100mph circles like nascar...lol

 

sump tanks are good.
I wonder if a fuel resistor bypass will be done with this pump?
OD

 

I did. I run mine on high all the time.

 

that may be a key-- i havent measured out my resistor but since i was moving stuff around in the engine bay when i installed my catch can--i noticed how dang hot that thing was getting. couldnt touch it---REAL hot.
you may be on to something with the by pass AND a better pump. I think you are right that the pre 09 pump can't last long on high volt mode( heck cant last long in the normal mode)
olddragger

 

Huh? I didn't say that - I said exactly the opposite:

The OE pump will last just as "long" and fail just as miserably at low voltage.

The "key" is that the OE pump produces less than the required pressure to overcome the regulator and operate the siphon once it becomes symptomatic and even more so in the low voltage mode.

 

so ... when will we be able to get this sucker ?

 

We can get it when CRH says BHR will sell a kit. Thats what Ben said that Ben said....lol

 

my apologies---no you never said that. DIdnt mean to imply that you did. That is me speaking. I think that the pre 09 pump just doesnt have the muscle to last long when an increased workload is required from it. Such as tracking and maybe boosted applications--depending on how they are driven.
I agree that the resistor bypass and a stronger more resilient pump may help with probs some have had.
olddragger

 

Dear all

Just an update of the walbro fuel pump replacement when I am going to the trackday

1) When driving to the track and back (abt 3hrs of high way driving per trip) at between 5-6k rpm operations, no more fuel pump failure
2) When on the track, no fuel starvation even when I am running 1/4 tank (tried it for 2 trackdays)

Will monitor it on a longer term basis to see any changes

 

Could you tell us what model car you bought the pump for? What changes to the kit were necessary to make for it to work on the RX8?

 

Great write up and great feedback,,,

Put mine in last week, there were a few gaskets that are held by cogged clamp rings that upon cracking the case open are delicate and may need to be replaced if not careful...
I went over this install with my local Mazda tech and he said hes remaned a half dozen 8s and about 20 6s and just to be on the safe side he recomends replacing these three parts

Part numbers and names_
F151-42-A15B Thread Ring $50.93
F151-42-A14A Union Nut $44.78
F151-42-A61 Fuel Gasket $56.36

Again this is just to be on the safe side, and its not recomended to repeatedly crack the assembly open many times without monitoring the condition of these parts,,,,

 

Hi Alnielsen

This modification is done by my mechanic so I dont know the exact part no. of the Walbro pump but I will ask him when I drop by his place.
I notice the upper housing and fuel filter is changed duing the installation but there might be other small items too......The most labourous part of the installation is taking out the Fuel Pump assembly from the car and fitting it back to the car to ensure no leaks and petrol smell.

 

You should always replace the Gasket. unless you find a leak is funny.

The Plastic ring --- you dont have to replace it unless you force it open and something cracks.

Union Nut ... no idea what that is.

 

Brilliant write up Jeff, thanks for the info and hard work.

 

What is the part number for the pump?

 

Great info! Just what I wanted to hear!

The fuel pump is on my list of things that I would like to modify/upgrade just because of all the issues I've been reading about.

This drop-in DENSO replacement talk is got me interested. Does it have similar specs to the OE unit, or does it have a higher flow rate like the walbro?

 

Uh, BHR isn't using a Denso pump. The only pump spec'd here as a viable OE replacement, has been the Walbro.

 

Wait, what did you say, 09factor?

heh

 

the 09 pump is a denso.
OD

 

Hmmm Sorry buddy. I don't see any Denso pump pic added to the first post.
I was speaking about the replacement fuel pump BHR has spec'd. Not the entire 09 replacement pump assembly.

 

The Denso replacement that fits without the OEM filter in the basket is the 195130-1020 Supra TT pump. It is about $300...but has better reliability and better flow than the Walbro if you are so inclined. ( I think it's 270/290 lph)

It is a turbine type pump and is much quieter than the Walbro.....

Takes a bit more work to install it though..

 

dannobre, are you sure that's the pump that MM was referring to? By saying "drop-in replacement", I usually think "requires no modifications". Then again, I wouldn't mind if it required some alterations, but I don't think I really care for the idea of not having a fuel filter, as you suggest the mod requires.

I figured the denso would be better than the walbro, and that's why I asked. But being in the price range of the bosch, which is better of the two?