you realize there are 5 bazillion wires going from the car to the int-x, and from the int-x to the factory pcm?

That I do. I saw the car in person. It was merely a thought & why I also put in parenthesis *if possible* in my first post about relocating it. To someone who cares a bit more about aesthetics it might be an option, thats all.

Not in that zip tie location. That top zip tie location only gets say (70-100 C)160-212 degrees from the radiant heat of the turbo. The main reason why I wrapped it at all was to prevent a contact burn if the hose swayed into the hotside of the turbo. The reason why I used those two ties there was because that location(exactly where the ties are) recieves so little heat that doing a proper wrap was not necessary. All that heat shielding in that bay probably cost ~$150, doing a proper wrap on it would waste it from using it someplace where it is more needed.

All-in-All I haven't had a problem with the heat after 500 miles of use. Temps are normal while driving. The hoses are shielded on one side, and water-cooled on the other, they are very unlikely to melt, but the heat differential might make them brittle in a few years, then silicone replacements may be in order.

You could relocate it if you wanted to, it would be a pain to extend the stock harness, and would require an adapter like greddy sells so you won't have to cut it up. But with the adapter you could relocate it whereever you wanted(within reason). I actually had to extend my wideband by 8" to get it to reach my gauge pod. Not a big deal to cut and splice in an extension.

The INTX does take a VAC/BOOST in hose, so where-ever you put it, it would still need to be accesible to the hose.

Yep, and that hose better not be pinched, or too long. The accuracy of the signal is extremely important!!!

Love the "5 bazillion" number. That about describes it very accurately. :lol2:

heh. Extending one wire is completely different from extending hundreds. The cost of a boomslang custom made harness is a few hundred bucks, and that's for a short harness.

I don't think anyone is going to be relocating the int-x.


staticlag, eventually you're going to break down and ceramic coat it so no one can bust your chops over zip ties :)

Yeah, it would be quite expensive for the relocate. I figure that since the Mazport instructions say to connect it like that, and that no users have had a problem with it since introduction then its fine where it is. It does (as it is now) open up the ECU box though, and removes(front) & relocates(back) weather seals. So anyone with the INTx should stay away from people carelessly trying to powerwash the engine bay or anything of that nature. And I will probably yellow and black tape the ECU box so people won't be leaning on my ECU.

Yeah, I was def thinking of ceramic coat, esp since it will keep engine bay temps down a bit. We shall see what the track days this year will say. One thing is for sure, a vented hood is looking pretty good right now. I will probably cut my own used one up.

Assuming something fails:

Zip ties melt:
-I will wire the shield tape or use a metal hose clamp

Temps too high:
-I will buy a turbo blanket

Temps still too high:
-I will buy a vented hood

Temps STILL too high
-Ceramic coat everything and replace oil coolers.

Oh and TEMPS STILL TOO HIGH:
-I will pull my A/C, relocate all my radiator hoses, and add a 3rd oil cooler.

And what about if it is still too high? :banghead:

:lol:

:lol: I'll take a cool-down lap :aroused: :cylonA:

That would be too easy.

By the way I deleted my post about the APV.
that wouldn't work. It is actuated by a motor. Stupid me :)

Hmm... nope, that isn't it. We tried that. the APV wheel that the APV motor actuates on needs to move about 300degress from closed to open. The most you can get from a linear actuator is 170-175Deg if you're lucky and plan it out perfectly. This means it will either not fully close or not fully open. I know this because we tried it.

Although the actual APV sleeves probably only need to move about 180 the shaft that extends outside the LIM isn't a 1:1 ratio with the sleeves. You would either need a rotatory pneumatic actuator(very rare) or solenoid(most don't turn more than 180deg either) or an electronic controller for the stock APV motor that works off a boost signal. The only way to do it with a linear actuator would be for the actuator to push on a 1:2 transmission that in turn rotates the APV shaft. This will probably prove to be too complicated and bulky to fit in the available space considering the DP is nearby.

We are working on an electronic solution. I'll keep everyone updated :)

Chris

Haha, you got to it before I posted about it. :)

Actually a mechanical actuator could work and would be ideal but when you remove the APV motor you can tell it needs to move more than what a linear actuator can move it. We'll see where this takes us.....

Keep up the good work ;)

Chris

Which wire on the PCM harness is used for the actuator mtor, do you remember off the top of your head?

Nope. It really isn't one wire though. Its got 5 wires, two for power and I believe 3 for position.

Chris

Nothing is an ON and OFF in this damn car :)

What would be considered too long?

Actually anything longer than what it is is already is that much too long.
The length of it curently is kinda long too, if you think about it, especially if you are using a fast spooling turbo, like greddy. The longer the hose is the higher the chance that the pressure wave traveling through it will be distorted by the hose expancion and the time it takes for the signal to reach the sensor. Yes eventually it catches up, but for that fraction of a second that it takes for everyting to react, your rotors may have made a few combustion cycles with lean mixture.

Yeah, its already pretty long.

Best bet is to go to a small diameter metal tube. Smaller diameter means faster reaction time since less air is compressed/displaced.

Static,
You were talking about how you still like the REVi sound of your intake several posts ago, but when I was examining the pictures of your installed kit I didn't see the Racing Beat box. Did you take it apart? Is it a different intake system? Also, I imagine that the intercooler would interfere with the ram-air duct that some Racing Beat intakes have. Thanks (and a very substantial congratulations on the kit)!

the turbo comes with its own intake
he said it sounds like the revi

good call, thanks for the clarification

Thank You guys, you guys are the best. i might just get me another, i had a gt silver, this time i'm going base white.

Evil

what king of bodykit you have?