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After this latest round of work:
- Re-tapped holes and better secured MAF to mount
- Cut ~ 2.5" out of my CAI section (between air filter and MAF)
- bead rolled the ends of all intake and charge sections
I'd been experiencing elevated AFRs, which weren't responding to OL fuel table adjustments.
Noodled this a bit w/ Brett ...Thx B... and came to realize that my recent work had improved intake efficiency by either eliminating micro leaks or reducing drag, which taken together had affected MAF scaling. My current MAF scaling was under-reporting air consumption, causing the ECU to undershoot fuel compensation... leading to a leaning out of AFRs.
So, after a couple iterations of increasing MAF scaling & drive cycles ...AFRs are again good.
"Change one thing. Change everything."
"Do it right or do it again."
Edit: 10.22.21 Profile ( after a little more tuning, and a little more turnt.)
Glad you got it sorted.
I've seen it often where a small change is made to the setup of the maf and then it all goes to the crapper. Especially when the filter is in the bumper and the maf is straight after it . Any slight change in positioning can drastically alter the way air enters the filter pushing it to one side or the other so the maf then sees something very different.
... She drove like a champ, and in ~90°F ambient maintained:
- IATs: ambient + 9 (+/- 3) °F ,
- ECT: 190 (+/- 10)°F,
- Oil T: 183 (+/- 5)°F
...
The above was from my road trip Aug 30 when ambient temps were in the 90s°F. However, fall ambient temps have dropped into the 40s & 50s, and with my aftermarket oil cooler t-stats, my oil temps were basically pinging at ~ 160- 165°F - too cold for for proper bearing lubrication. In previous years I'd just cover my oil coolers, but I snookered myself this year by installing mesh over all my bumper openings...as there was no way to cover them in an aesthetically acceptable manner to me. So, in preparation for another ~ 1000 mi. Thanksgiving road trip, I changed the oil and swapped back in the OEM t-stats, and voila oil temps were ~ 180°F solid.
I'll see next spring..., but may settle on running the lower temp t-stats late spring and summer, and OEMs in the fall and during my limited drives during the winter.
Unless you're tracking the car, the stock t-stats are fine. Or compromise and do just one of the t-stats, or stock t-stats and open up the wheel well exits.
Just leave the stock T.stats in there and you wont need to mess with them ever again ......
Originally Posted by DocWalt
Unless you're tracking the car, the stock t-stats are fine. Or compromise and do just one of the t-stats, or stock t-stats and open up the wheel well exits.
I'm thinking you're right guys. I installed the lower temp t-stats when I was throwing the kitchen sink at keeping her cool in mid 90s °F ambient summer heat. They certainly did no harm then..., but I'm seeing fall / winter months is another story. I'll eval one last time in spring, and if temps are good; be done w/ it. Who knows I may do some infrequent tracking.
Yes, I opened the wheel well exit airflow slits long ago.
Nothing like our northern neighbors..., but finally got a light blanketing. Glad I was able to liberally scratch my driving "Boosted Black Beauty" itch the last few days.
She's currently tucked away ...till better days.
. Tucked away till better days...
.
My block ...north
. My block ...south
not sure which is sadder; that much anorexia or that much vanity …
...
.
Team, Have to agree w/ you here. We brothas like ...eh "back". I'm happily married and my wife is fuuiiine. Even if that weren't the case ..."this"...sooo not my type. But to each their own...
Ok, w/ > 160k+ miles on her chasis...next up I'm investigating replacing suspension bushings all round. I have the Mazda Workshop manual , exploded diags, etc.; and am in the process of deciding if I want to do the work or have it done by a shop. I've searched the forum and find a number of threads on suspension upgrades, and geometry; but not much on simply replacing bushings.
For those with experience replacing the bushings ...how time consuming a job is this? Any known difficulties / challenges? Recommendations or thoughts?
you really need all new control arms as well because all those ball joints are worn, waste of time and money hassling with bushings into arms with worn joints. Which with the lower front control arm it then also provides new lower shock bushings too.
In the rear upright there is a bushing that would need to be pressed out/in though in order to get them all.
do it once, do it right …. but you don’t have to do them all at once, maybe all the front, then all the rear or vice versa if you think one end is more severe than the other.
you really need all new control arms as well because all those ball joints are worn, waste of time and money hassling with bushings into arms with worn joints. Which with the lower front control arm it then also provides new lower shock bushings too.
In the rear upright there is a bushing that would need to be pressed out/in though in order to get them all.
do it once, do it right …. but you don’t have to do them all at once, maybe all the front, then all the rear or vice versa if you think one end is more severe than the other.
Team - Thanks. Helpful info. I've an appt w/ a local shop for a suspension inspection and diagnosis this Friday. I'll see what they diagnose, specifically discuss the control arms, and decide from there.
Ok, w/ > 160k+ miles on her chasis...next up I'm investigating replacing suspension bushings all round. I have the Mazda Workshop manual , exploded diags, etc.; and am in the process of deciding if I want to do the work or have it done by a shop. I've searched the forum and find a number of threads on suspension upgrades, and geometry; but not much on simply replacing bushings.
For those with experience replacing the bushings ...how time consuming a job is this? Any known difficulties / challenges? Recommendations or thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Don't forget to look into changing out subframe and differential bushings as well if you wanting to get them all done.