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Brettus 10-08-2018 02:01 AM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4871916)
So, I can't say at what RPM peak is achieved. .

Just look at your absolute load log .... boost threashold rpm stands out .

JimmyBlack 10-08-2018 03:48 PM

I ran my Greddy for a year around 12-13psi with no issues. I use RON 98 rated gas (I think E30 has RON 100 rating), and kept an eye on AFRs every now and then during WOT pulls. With your larger turbine housing, your setup will be much happier/safer than a Greddy T25 housing at 10+psi, as there's less exhaust manifold back-pressure hammering the engine.

I've heard that running Ethanol blends on piston engines dilutes the oil, so more frequent oil changes are required in order to avoid spinning a bearing. Not sure if more frequent oil changes are required with rotaries on ethanol, given that oil in the combustion chamber is burned.

Brettus 10-08-2018 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by JimmyBlack (Post 4871969)
I ran my Greddy for a year around 12-13psi with no issues. I use RON 98 rated gas (I think E30 has RON 100 rating), and kept an eye on AFRs every now and then during WOT pulls. With your larger turbine housing, your setup will be much happier/safer than a Greddy T25 housing at 10+psi, as there's less exhaust manifold back-pressure hammering the engine.

I've heard that running Ethanol blends on piston engines dilutes the oil, so more frequent oil changes are required in order to avoid spinning a bearing. Not sure if more frequent oil changes are required with rotaries on ethanol, given that oil in the combustion chamber is burned.

Problem is ...at 12-13psi ...the rx8perf kit will flow more and make more power so it's a swings and roundabouts thing . I ran that boost and higher on my old greddy setup as well but def. wouldn't recommend it to anyone ....... Anyone i liked anyway :)
Re the oil ... the guys at HPR showed me the oil from a high power rotary that was running E85 .... It smelt like a wild night on the rum !

jcbrx8 10-09-2018 10:42 AM

3rd gear pull this morning @ peak psi 10.4. Pulls hard from ~3k on... :)

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0d6d33a6ca.png

furansu 10-09-2018 12:25 PM

Are you running the stock timing on the intake valves, or have any disabled? It looks like you are hitting an airflow limit around 6800-7200RPM, then it suddenly clears up and power ramps again.

jcbrx8 10-09-2018 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by furansu (Post 4872041)
Are you running the stock timing on the intake valves, or have any disabled? It looks like you are hitting an airflow limit around 6800-7200RPM, then it suddenly clears up and power ramps again.

Furansu, :dunno: Good question...I also noticed the consistent "rise" ~7.2-3k in my dynos, just after the "limit" you identified. Actually seems ... a restriction from ~5.8k - 7.2k. My presumption w/b having to do w/ opening of Aux Intake ports..., but intended to discuss it w/ Brett who's doing my tuning. W/b nice to realize a bit more torque thru that range. :)

furansu 10-09-2018 01:06 PM

It'll be interesting to see what he says. The VDI valve normally engages at 7250RPM, fully possible the valve actuation need adjustment given the significant gains in airflow from the turbocharger. You could set the VDI valve actuation window down a few thousand RPM and see if you pickup or lose power there, paying close attention to AFR to assure it doesn't go too lean (add a bit of fuel just before the valve window in the tables to mitigate the 'lean surge' of the valve. You could do the same with the Aux ports to see if they pickup power at a lower RPM now.

Brettus 10-09-2018 01:19 PM

I like to deactivate the VDI altogether . It's an NA valve only and with FI it tends to just create a power drop as it opens but has no other effect - positive or negative.
The APV valve activation I set coming in a few hundred rpm earlier . The ideal activation point is largely dependent on the rate of acceleration of the engine in the gear you are testing . This is due to the relatively slow motion of the valve . The faster the engine is accelerating , the sooner you want to activate the APV . Unfortunately once you go FI acceleration rates are almost double that of NA and finding an activation point that is ideal for each gear is impossible with the control we have.
What you see above in Curtis's VD is pretty typical . A slight drop as the APV opens then a bit of a surge in power. VD does tend to exagerate these things though unfortunately . A real dyno it would look better than above in midrange but with a lower peak.

Brettus 10-09-2018 04:26 PM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4872044)
Furansu, :dunno: Good question...I also noticed the consistent "rise" ~7.2-3k in my dynos, just after the "limit" you identified. Actually seems ... a restriction from ~5.8k - 7.2k. My presumption w/b having to do w/ opening of Aux Intake ports..., but intended to discuss it w/ Brett who's doing my tuning today. W/b nice to realize a bit more torque thru that range. :)

It's not just the APV doing that . It's also the slight dropoff in boost as rpms rise plus increased backpressure at the turbine. Lots of factors really . The upturn at the end could also just be an anomaly .... Sometimes I just have to put things down to 'something weird' happened as it hurts my brain trying to dig any deeper ...lol

jcbrx8 10-09-2018 05:09 PM


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4872072)
It's not just the APV doing that . It's also the slight dropoff in boost as rpms rise plus increased backpressure at the turbine. Lots of factors really . The upturn at the end could also just be an anomaly .... Sometimes I just have to put things down to 'something weird' happened as it hurts my brain trying to dig any deeper ...lol

Brett, Lol...thanks for the explanation...

RotaryMachineRx 10-09-2018 11:21 PM

Wow, great thread man and thanks for the shout out, glad my thread could be of any assistance at all. Very methodical build, great job planning things out and dealing with the issues as they happened.

Your numbers look promising and its good to finally see a well documented build with this turbo kit as I have always said that if I was to do it again I would go with this kit.

Also great job not rushing into things and allowing Brett to dial that tune in, I believe that's the biggest factor in going FI with the 8 and the main reason I've managed to get nearly 60,000kms and 8 years with my turbo setup.

Keep us posted!

jcbrx8 10-10-2018 08:36 AM


Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx (Post 4872092)
Wow, great thread man and thanks for the shout out, glad my thread could be of any assistance at all. Very methodical build, great job planning things out and dealing with the issues as they happened.

Your numbers look promising and its good to finally see a well documented build with this turbo kit as I have always said that if I was to do it again I would go with this kit.

Also great job not rushing into things and allowing Brett to dial that tune in, I believe that's the biggest factor in going FI with the 8 and the main reason I've managed to get nearly 60,000kms and 8 years with my turbo setup.

Keep us posted!

RotaryMachineRx, Thanks...much appreciated. Yes, I believe we have similar objectives for our builds: i.e. a beautiful, reliable, DD w/ more HP/ Trq. Your build was among those that convinced me it c/b done. Thank you.

As I've stated I'm happy w/ progress to date and my #s, and will likely enjoy it as is ...for a bit, while taking care of a few loose ends, e.g. front under-tray, ducting, aesthetics, etc.; as I consider if I'm willing to accept the constraints as well as the benefits of going E30.

Tuning...yes, I've seen the tuning options over the years...and am thankful for a knowledgeable, experienced, amiable guy like Brett to collaborate w/ for tuning.

jcbrx8 10-16-2018 10:38 PM

About 1k miles in and all is well. I believe I've the EBC fairly well dialed in for a low and high setting. Enjoying relearning to drive her in the cool weather (50s & 60s F). Just hate that' its been raining lately. :yelrotflm:)

jcbrx8 10-20-2018 11:37 AM

Quick update: Here's a screen shot from my AEM Failsafe gauge of a 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear (as far as I was comfortable) WOT pull. A little context:
  • I still have a small exhaust manifold leak, which I intend to correct over winter.
  • The x-axis units measure "time" as it's a commonly known difficultly to tap RPM on our 8s. I may try to sort that later via tapping coils or Hall Effect sensor, but meanwhile, x-axis here is "time".
I'm still fine tuning my EBC as access to the AEM's capability to log and review psi across the entire rpm range is a far superior tool then the momentary "peak psi" captured via my Profec B 2 I was using to tune.
That said targeting 10 psi... today my system generates:
  • 2nd: 8.2 peak, 7.7 hold
  • 3rd: 10.5 peak, 9.7 hold
  • 4th: 11.0 peak, 10.3 hold
Still... a blast to drive :), but room to improve low end response relative to my objectives: reliable DD / track car fully spooled at ~4.2k, @ 325-350 rwHP. Anticipating improved spool once my manifold is completely sealed. :yesnod: :yumyum:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0e4c8e25dc.png

Brettus 10-20-2018 04:05 PM

Looking good !
So in 3rd gear from a low rpm start .... at what rpm do you see 10psi ?

jcbrx8 10-20-2018 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4872949)
Looking good !
So in 3rd gear from a low rpm start .... at what rpm do you see 10psi ?

Brett, Thx. At this point... the 3rd gear pull I posted back on 10/9 (re-posted here) s/b still largely accurate. I don't really expect any significant spool improvement until I'm successful in getting the mani truly sealed.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...0d6d33a6ca.png



jcbrx8 10-21-2018 10:44 PM

Well, had a bit of a scare yesterday. Took the 8 for a drive to do some M/E and AEM logging. :ylsuper: During a 2nd gear WOT heard a pop and saw a plume of white smoke in the rear view. Backed off, checked gauges, all good ...,a few seconds later coolant temp alarm goes off (215F). :sad: I cruise low rpm, low load ~1/2 mile, coolant temp drops. I pull over to side of the road, inspect, & find coolant mist all over rear bumper. Get back in and low coolant cel is lit. :sweatdrop :mad: Wifey brings me a couple gallons of water. I start the engine and start filling w/ water, and its leaking out underneath...somewhere on the driver side of sump. So, I'm on the side of the road, no jack stands, no tools... so get her towed to the house, and enjoy an evening considering the worst case scenarios caused by this evenings activity. :( Reach out to Brett for a diagnostic assist. He basically says, "Chill mate, don't jump to conclusions, find the leak". Good advice. :lol2: So, today, I put her on stands, and start filling coolant and pretty quickly find an 1 1/2" gash in the heater hose that runs down along the driver side of the engine. :Freak_ani Cut, refit the hose, refill w/ coolant, and go for a spin. All good. Whew. :rofl: :)


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...16c9870943.jpg

swoope 10-21-2018 11:22 PM

if this is the one just under the master cylinder, and it failed replace all your coolant hoses!

do not ask me how i know. I am enjoying this thread..

beers :beer:

strokercharged95gt 10-22-2018 08:01 AM

I had the exact same thing happen about 6-12 months ago. I forgot to secure the lower radiator hose back from my turbo manifold and it slowly melted until I had steam shooting under my car. Luckily I caught it before it was gushing. Shit happens, you should be good to go.

jcbrx8 10-22-2018 08:35 AM


Originally Posted by swoope (Post 4873043)
if this is the one just under the master cylinder, and it failed replace all your coolant hoses!
do not ask me how i know. I am enjoying this thread..
beers :beer:

Thanks, Swoope! Will do. Yeah, ...was my biggest "scare" yet being boosted. Definitely want to avoid that happening again. I'm developing a game plan to fully seal my ex. mani sometime this winter, I'll replace all my hoses then. Thx!


jcbrx8 10-25-2018 06:00 PM

Well, as committed... the good, bad, this is the ugly. I took the car out Mon. evening ...simple cruise...think I hit 1 psi. After driving ~ 5 mi I stopped for gas. After filling up she wouldn't start. Multiple attempts...cranked strong, but would not start. Thought to let the engine cool. After some time while waiting I looked underneath and saw a pool of coolant generally...under manifold area (recall I still have the ex mani leak). So, popped the coolant cap and was topping it up. As I continued to periodically crank the engine I could see wafs of smoke emanating from the coolant overfill bottle coinciding w/ when the engine was being cranked. After ~an hr of cranking, waiting, and getting jumps...finally got her started... white smoke billowing everywhere, and was able to drive directly home.

Since then she starts, but has rough idle and fair amount of white smoke. So, I'm reasonably confident, unfortunately, that whatever happened last Sat ruptured the coolant o-ring in the rotor 2 housing. https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/sad.gif I was logging last Sat when the initial "event" happened and AFRs repeatedly drove to ~10.6 in boost, coolant and oil temps were ~205F and 190F, respectively. After the event coolant climbed past my alarm threshold (215F) to 220F before dropping back to normal range. So, given that data my presumption is this was simply the product of boosting a 65k mile reman'd non-built engine, which btw I expected to "go"..., but not so soon.

So, currently considering options, cost, and time frames for next steps...

Brettus 10-25-2018 06:54 PM

This is really bad luck jcb .... Glad you are able to be up front about it and let people know what happened.

skc 10-25-2018 08:48 PM

So sad to see that the engine died.

Good opportunity to rebuild with better seals, dowelling, billet studs, porting, etc

strokercharged95gt 10-26-2018 08:42 AM

That really sucks.

If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.

Brettus 10-26-2018 05:13 PM

Only issue with that is that almost every engine that is ever pulled apart at any more than token mileage has worn out housings.

jcbrx8 10-28-2018 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt (Post 4873628)
That really sucks.

If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.

SC95GT, Appreciate it..., and the suggestion. The better part of valor is often objectively assessing your resources for a task...not only $$, but experience, skill, and most importantly time. And of course, in situations as these you don't know what you don't know. That said... I believe it is above my comfort level to "plan" to pop open my engine, diagnose and correct it. So, I'm investigating established, reliable builders in the hopes of getting a quality engine rebuild. I'll talk w/ them... and garner reviews from experienced SMEs w/in our community, and proceed from there...

swoope 10-28-2018 08:43 PM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4873572)
Well, as committed... the good, bad, this is the ugly. I took the car out Mon. evening ...simple cruise...think I hit 1 psi. After driving ~ 5 mi I stopped for gas. After filling up she wouldn't start. Multiple attempts...cranked strong, but would not start. Thought to let the engine cool. After some time while waiting I looked underneath and saw a pool of coolant generally...under manifold area (recall I still have the ex mani leak). So, popped the coolant cap and was topping it up. As I continued to periodically crank the engine I could see wafs of smoke emanating from the coolant overfill bottle coinciding w/ when the engine was being cranked. After ~an hr of cranking, waiting, and getting jumps...finally got her started... white smoke billowing everywhere, and was able to drive directly home. Since...she starts, but has rough idle and fair amount of white smoke. So, I'm reasonably confident, unfortunately, that whatever happened last Sat ruptured the coolant o-ring in the rotor 2 housing. :sad: I was logging last Sat when the initial "event" happened and AFRs repeatedly drove to ~10.6 in boost, coolant and oil temps were ~205F and 190F, respectively. After the event coolant climbed past my alarm threshold (215F) to 220F before dropping back to normal range. So, given that data my presumption is this was simply the product of boosting a 65k mile reman'd non-built engine, which btw I expected to "go"..., but not so soon.

So, currently considering options, cost, and time frames for next steps...

if it helps, and i know it doesnt. :) i am in the same boat, but i managed to do it without boost..

not sure how i am going to proceed.

beers :beer:

jcbrx8 10-29-2018 08:16 AM


Originally Posted by swoope (Post 4873777)
if it helps, and i know it doesnt. :) i am in the same boat, but i managed to do it without boost..

not sure how i am going to proceed.

beers :beer:

Swoope, Thanks, man, appreciate the honesty. Good luck sorting things out and hopefully getting her rolling again.

jcbrx8 10-31-2018 02:59 PM


Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt (Post 4873628)
That really sucks.

If it really is just a cooling seal and no damage was done to the housings or plates, you could get another closing kit and some better apex seals for like $400-500 and rebuild it yourself (assuming all other components are in good shape).. I rebuilt mine by watching two jobbers from Australia on YouTube. Motor came out fine.

SC95GT, ...I m/h spoken too quickly. :fingersx: All options are on table. Thx. Curt

Brettus 10-31-2018 03:16 PM

What are you saying ?

jcbrx8 11-03-2018 11:51 AM


Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4873981)
What are you saying ?

"You take the blue pill the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill—you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes" - Morpheus

I'm taking the red pill. :cool:

Much to learn... much to be done. More to come...

swoope 11-03-2018 08:34 PM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4874236)


"You take the blue pill—the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill—you stay in Wonderland, and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes" - Morpheus

I'm taking the red pill. :cool:

Much to learn... much to be done. More to come...

wish you were closer!

beers :beer:

olddragger 11-04-2018 04:12 AM

Have you tried any sealant? Probably will not work ( although I have seen it work) but at this point you have nothing to loose?
very nice write up and clean install.
dont forget if your coolant temp becomes a problem a secondary radiator works wonders.

jcbrx8 11-04-2018 07:57 AM


Originally Posted by swoope (Post 4874271)
wish you were closer!

beers :beer:

Appreciate it, Swoope.

jcbrx8 11-04-2018 08:37 AM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4874281)
Have you tried any sealant? Probably will not work ( although I have seen it work) but at this point you have nothing to loose?
very nice write up and clean install.
dont forget if your coolant temp becomes a problem a secondary radiator works wonders.

OD, Appreciate it... and thanks for the suggestion. No, I haven't tried a sealant. I would have zero confidence a sealant would hold on a boosted engine, and wouldn't want to introduce a sealant essentially to the combustion chamber, or chance clogging coolant passages.

Conversely, hopefully w/ no or minimal damage to housings and plates :fingersx: this is a good opportunity to learn and sufficiently "harden" the engine to handle the power the "Rock's cooking" :cool: Ideally, I intend to rebuild this engine w/ all new seals, a street port, dowells, a stud kit, and likely softer apex seals. THEN, FINALLY get my ex mani sealed. :yelrotflm We'll see how it goes... more to come...

swoope 11-04-2018 08:09 PM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4874281)
Have you tried any sealant? Probably will not work ( although I have seen it work) but at this point you have nothing to loose?
very nice write up and clean install.
dont forget if your coolant temp becomes a problem a secondary radiator works wonders.

denny,
check your pm!

going to be at RR this weekend.

beers :beer:

olddragger 11-04-2018 08:45 PM

Call Cam concerning sealants.
but I do understand your reluctance.
xing fingers for you man

swoope 11-04-2018 09:42 PM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4874290)

OD, Appreciate it... and thanks for the suggestion. No, I haven't tried a sealant. I would have zero confidence a sealant would hold on a boosted engine, and wouldn't want to introduce a sealant essentially to the combustion chamber, or chance clogging coolant passages.

Conversely, hopefully w/ no or minimal damage to housings and plates :fingersx: this is a good opportunity to learn and sufficiently "harden" the engine to handle the power the "Rock's cooking" :cool: Ideally, I intend to rebuild this engine w/ all new seals, a street port, dowells, a stud kit, and likely softer apex seals. THEN, FINALLY get my ex mani sealed. :yelrotflm We'll see how it goes... more to come...

not sure where you are going with sealant. but dont bother. just went down that road with cam, i can tell you what he used... stopped the issue for a while. but failed in long run.. and this was bonus! locked solid.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...7e0b1e485a.jpg


beers :beer:

olddragger 11-05-2018 06:04 AM

Whoa.....! That’s nasty.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.

jcbrx8 11-11-2018 01:39 PM

Engine's out. Let the fun begin... :)


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...2026e3b5ef.jpg
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d01dc0dfcc.jpg
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d1357e5d8d.jpg
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...298ab3622b.jpg

strokercharged95gt 11-11-2018 05:01 PM

Pulled my engine out this weekend as well . Are you going REW or just a refresh?

jcbrx8 11-11-2018 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt (Post 4874844)
Pulled my engine out this weekend as well . Are you going REW or just a refresh?

SC95GT, I'm rebuilding my 13B rene, not doing a REW swap. I've not investigated it much personally, but understand that a REW swap is significantly more costly.

All the best to you. What's your time frame?

swoope 11-12-2018 08:19 PM


Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 4874350)
Whoa.....! That’s nasty.
sorry to derail the thread.
i did have an engine that was having air bubbles in the coolant...( wasn’t blowing the usual white smoke... yet) and I called cam. he suggested a particular sealant. It worked for me and he told me if it didn’t then no harm done...engine had to be torn down anyway. So I gave it a shot.
The op is going to really enjoy a properly built engine for FI. enjoy your adventure...you will learn a lot. Will follow...great thread.


think most of the damage was in the overheat, the coolant sealant finished it off. you would have recognized a lot of faces at RR. did a 1:28.31 in a stock 17gti with pads and 200 tires. it was a hoot.

carry on with the thread, sorry.

beers :beer:

swoope 11-12-2018 08:24 PM

Engine's out. Let the fun begin... :)

cant wait to see where the leak is!!

beers :beer:

strokercharged95gt 11-14-2018 06:29 PM


Originally Posted by jcbrx8 (Post 4874847)


SC95GT, I'm rebuilding my 13B rene, not doing a REW swap. I've not investigated it much personally, but understand that a REW swap is significantly more costly.

All the best to you. What's your time frame?

Bolting on the new counterweight, flywheel, twin disc clutch tomorrow then resealing the front cover and oil pan, etc. I'll be dropping the motor back in this weekend. Good luck on the rebuild.

jcbrx8 11-15-2018 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by strokercharged95gt (Post 4875135)
Bolting on the new counterweight, flywheel, twin disc clutch tomorrow then resealing the front cover and oil pan, etc. I'll be dropping the motor back in this weekend. Good luck on the rebuild.

SC95GT, Congrats on your progress! All the best going forward... auxiliaries install, re-install, etc.

Thanks! I've been covered w/ work. Expecting to make some progress during time off over Thanksgiving. Next up...stripping auxiliary items, and cracking the block.

jcbrx8 11-29-2018 04:46 PM

Quick progress update: engine stripped down to short block and cracking the keg.

​​​Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / end iron side water seal (in last pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...548f2ec6a2.jpg
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ef6d8e8067.jpg
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...259ea8a23c.jpg
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...bd3fb874f9.jpg
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https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...8e9f62f045.jpg
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jcbrx8 11-29-2018 04:54 PM

Short block disassembly:

Note: Can see the damaged rear rotor / center iron side water seal (in the 4th pic) in the area of the exhaust chamber.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ab793aa994.jpg
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ea28f8116a.jpg
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...ddbc4a8e23.jpg
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https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b9d30cc22c.jpg
Note: Water seal seen here on the rear rotor / center iron side destroyed around the perimeter of the exhaust phase.
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e0e4a4a033.jpg
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...d34d69a2ab.jpg

jcbrx8 11-29-2018 05:03 PM

- The culprit, blown water seal
- rotor 1 & 2 spring and seal disassembly
- rotors & housings cleaning...

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...863fa184cf.jpg
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...03b6d56f3b.jpg
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...650cd8b12a.jpg
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https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...749414e6ee.jpg
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e6dd58f810.jpg
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...b7095145fa.jpg
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...75cac6b455.jpg
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https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...f1227a116a.jpg
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...5df5c3a83a.jpg
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https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...c0a74c8371.jpg
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...90fb2c359b.jpg
Note: Old housings showing scoring around the leading plug holes. These were NOT reused in my rebuild.
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...47ce565876.jpg

strokercharged95gt 11-29-2018 07:11 PM

Looks good. I know some people will say you need all new housings etc., but I would just verify everything is in spec and not damaged, buy a new closing kit and get it back together. Chances are something else will blow well before anything else is truly unusable... :cool: If your are iffy on that, you may look into resurfacing those housings. I got mine done at Freelance and they came back looking brand new for like $300.


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