Yup team harness only can't buy them individually, used a stud mount zip tie and a couple of nuts and it got the job done though.

Also I wasn't around a couple years ago but did the Samco coolant hose kit issue ever get worked out, about getting the right hoses in the kit. Heard they where great quality hoses when you actually got the right pieces, any vendors still carrying them interested in picking up a set as I have ten years on my hoses prolly should just replace them all while I'm at it and it is/was the only 6pc kit :(

They were fixed. They fit pretty well now.

Thanks 9K, anyone beside Good-win racing selling them nowadays I'm always up for supporting one of our vendors first.

Pettit has a silicone set that works very well.

BHR used to sell them

I mailed Charles will see if he can get them still.

Thanks OD I looked into it I prefer the 6pc but will see what happens

be VERY careful with that small hose that goes onto the nipple of the radiator. That radiator nipple is famous for breaking off when you try to remove the hose.

Looking for some input here, I ran into a snag tonight.

So got my SS brake and clutch lines installed and bleed the brakes perfectly but for the life of me I can't get any pressure built on the clutch slave.

Yes I'm bleeding it without it connected to the trans but I have the pinion completely depressed, pump the clutch 5-6 times then while leaving the pedal depressed I crack the bleeder it will sometimes spit and sputter but no fluid at all, the pinion has no pressure on it at all and I noticed that it is suctioned into the slave cylinder and I can't get it out. I then tried reverse bleeding the system and I got the pinion un-seized only to then seize again when I traditional bleed again.

Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong here?

If the clutch line is totally dry it is difficult to bleed it. Easiest eay is a power bleeder...or a vac pump hooked to the slave nipple to pull the fluId through

First time ever having to deal with a clutch line to be honest and yes the entire system was dry inc the brake system and master cylinder. Ill look into a power bleeder as this is a PIA

Part of the issue is that it just doesn't move a lot of fluid like the brake master does. The other is you can only do one open/close pump at a time. Otherwise you'll pull air back in through the bleed screw. It can take while especially if you're doing it solo. Doing it solo when fully installed is easy, but also a pita. When the bleed screw is open the clutch pedal will stay on the floor in the "hold" position.

So you open the bleed screw, go in the car and push the pedal down, go back to the engine bay and tighten the bleed screw, go back in the car and pull up the pedal, back in the engine bay and open the bleed screw, back in the car and push down the pedal, back in the engine bay and tighten the bleed screw, repeat over and over again. It's a real workout going back and forth between the engine bay and the car over and over again.

The only thing I don't get is why the piston keeps becoming almost vacuumed into the slave cylinder even manually pulling it out it goes right back in the only way I got it free'd up was reverse bleeding but then two or three conventional bleeds and it became vacuumed into the cylinder like the pressure is sucking instead of pumping

Because it was never designed to be bled that way. The pedal/master pushes fluid into the slave against the spring pressure of the cover plate and the pressure from the cover plate pushes it back as the pedal is released in a closed hydraulic system back & forth flow motion. The only way to bleed it is using the pedal/master or maybe pressure bleeder flowing fluid to the slave. vacuum might work from the slave bleed screw too. The slave will not pull fluid back to itself.


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Also this is push-type slave so the correct static position is the slave piston fully inserted in the slave . Thats likely your issue right there. It has to be held down in the bore either while the master/pressure bleeder pushes fluid to it or vacuum bleeder pulls fluid to it. When its installed the clutch actuation arm prevents it from pushing and the fluid flows out the open bleed screw. When the bleed screw is closed and the pedal is pulled back up the slave piston is bottomed out fully inserted in the slave bore so the resulting vacuum pulls fresh fluid into the clutch master from the reservoir. I always use the pedal/master push method and am not sure about the pressure/vacuum method.


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That clarifies a lot for me, thanks for the input team. sounds like I was on the right track but it was taking so long I figured something was wrong. I'll work on it when I get a chance.

Finally got a couple mins with a vacuum pump and made progress, starting to think I need to replace the bleeder on the CSC as even when its closed and i have 15lb of vacuum on the line air still spools up around the bleeder and the pressure slowly drops, hopefully there isnt a leak letting air in somewhere else I have a feeling this is going to be a b***h to track down. Has there ever been cases of CMC letting air into the lines? Regardless i'll save it for the weekend.

On a side not finally got my LIM back so I cant finally start to make some serious progress on the block this weekend too
http://imageshack.us/a/img705/9967/img1084gb.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img171/1673/img1085xt.jpg

Never make your intake manifold a dark/ black color

Too late now, any reason why. Or is it a heat dissipation and absorbent thing?

Getting some more free time this weekend, starting to build the motor back up. After royal kicking myself in the A** coupled with a lot of over thinking I finally got the APV gears and motor installed and tested. As well as with the help of a vacuum bleeder and some teflon tape (life saver) got the clutch completely bleed. More to come tomorrow.


http://imageshack.us/a/img842/5254/img1091cy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img191/5173/img1092w.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img543/5578/img1093p.jpg

Objects that are dark colors tend to have higher emissivity than lighter colored objects. Due to that they to to absorb more heat via thermal radiation.

also if you have a leak anywhere its harder to spot. Even a vacuum leak,over time will cause a discoloration.
It does look really good though.

Yeah i considered the dark color for a while, but any other color would just make it stand out, the black looks clean to me and I realize it will increase IAT's. I figured with the TB bypass they will neglect each other. On a side note, finished reassembly of the block last night, just waiting on pulley's and BHR coils.

such an awesome build im glad to be following it hopefully in a month or 2 ill be having Steve Kan rebuilding porting and tuning my baby

https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...ece-go-213998/

No way the tiny effect of the TB bypass will offset the increased absorption of radiant heat of the black manifold. At least wrap the exhaust or put in a metal shield between the exhaust and intake manifold. Blocking the line-of-sight will help a lot.