Highest HP Street Cars tend to be Turbo
Venom TT, Bugatti, Ultimate Aero, etc

Highest HP Drag cars are mostly SC - for various reasons.

6 of 1 - half dozen of the other....

 

I agree, but I thought we were discussing FI on the 8

 

Meh... it wasn't specified.... LOLZ

Besides this thread was doomed from the start.

 

It depends on your goals.. (Fast , Reliable , Cheap) , pick two and it wont be the third. In this case the pettit doesnt follow this rule lol.

 

im looking for the start power like realy low end, most of the time i lose is in the 1000-3000 rmp range down shifting around turns, and the srt4s and cobalt ss's im racing are just boosting off those turns and im stuck in low rmp. sence its also my dd i dont want to burn the clutch by downshifting into a really low gear, the turbo is a great choise for a inport drag car but going in a stright line donsnt make much of a driver so i am going with the s/c

 

This is so full of fail I don't even know where to start.

1000 RPM? Shifting in a turn? Burn the clutch? Turbo for drag?!?!

Please sell your car. Please?

 

unfortunately the dynos are gone from the comparo thread so you are out of luck there , but suffice it to say from a pure hp and torque perspective there is no beating a properly sized and tuned turbo . There is more to it than that however , as a turbo owner I know there are characteristics of a SC that I would prefer for some situations .

 

Like what?

 

 

have to agree with MM - and you seriously need some driving lessons . Take your mates to the track and do it properly

 

This is not possible, you would stall your car in the higher gear before being capable of downshifting into the 1000 rpm range. In addition, you're doing it wrong if you downshift into the 3000 rpm range.

Let alone the massive fail of 'ilegal racing'.

 

Like on a windy country road when you are driving at 7/10ths - fast enough to have fun but staying well within the limits of the car .
Throttle linearity on a SC car is very similar to an NA car . This makes the driving more relaxed and enjoyable in this scenario.
I find with a turbo that I can't be as relaxed because the throttle is less predictable .
And yes I have adjusted the throttle maps to ease throttle response considerably.

 

Incorrectly sized turbo and/or boost controller settings.

 

Maybe - the little Greddy is a little finiky . But no turbo is going to give the same linear respose that an NA car has .

 

I guess you haven't been in mine.

 

/\ no good just being in it - I would have to drive it

 

You are more than welcome to it!

 

/\ heh - I have a feeling I would be impressed but we would still end up in an argument .
I'm probably almost as bloody minded as you are .

 

Well, you are simply stating that the TC is not delivering the same response as N/A. Pretty simple test as I have access to many RX-8s here in all flavors.
Having been on the track in quite a few different combinations, I can tell you that the setup in my car is much closer to "stock" than the Pettit S/C, which tends to "invert" the powerband a bit by comparison.

 

On the track is not even close to being on on a windy road at 7/10ths . I find i'm constantly modulating the throttle .
At the track you are mostly foot to the floor , or at least close to it, so it is totally different and not as much of an issue .
What i'm talking about is linearity . In an NA car you know exactly how much more power you are going to get (f**k all actually) as you press the throttle .
I think you need to come to NZ to see what a windy road is ...... lots of fun in a turboed 8 for sure

 

Well, in an N/A car, the power is so underwhelming that the pedal usually is to the floor when driving 7/10ths.
In my car, under most situations on the track I am usually "pedaling" a bit. So, the scenario is backwards from how you describe it for some of us that really push the car.

Remember - I'm in the wild west and I lived much of my adult life just east of the Appalachians; I know precisely what a windy road is.

 

have to chime in on the Pettit kit on the track.
Just got through with a track w/e --ambient temps 88--89 and yes we had humidity.
coolant oil temps no higher than 195 and on cool down lap dropped to 180.
Air intake temps taken at the upper/lower intake junction was usually 110F with water meth going.
Got 11-12 mpg on track hehe! No need for any rpms above 7.5K Gear ratio etc has been dialed in to the point that with the flat tq band I now have I do not have to shift except when i exit on the front straight. Rest of the time I am in 4th gear. I am in 6th haflway down the front straight. Then down to 4th in turn 1. Yes I am running 18 inch rims with 275/35 tires.
Track is Roebling Road in Sav Ga area. (9 turns almost 2 mile track --speeds 65-135.)
Very smooth car and power band. it is as smooth as a na car. It would be interesting to get both types of FI on a Road Track side by side and do some comparison. One is as good as the other--no arguments there, but there are some particular characteristics of each.
olddragger

 

I'd be interested to see your cooling performance around here.
With the new 'stat and pump, my <90°F performance is similar to yours.
As soon as the ambient temps go over 90°, the temps take off.
We have no humidity here, so the latent heat of the air is significantly lower. Consequently, the cooling capacity of said air is also lower.
Shame about turning the Renesis into a tractor. The beauty of it are the high RPMs.
6th in the front straight at Roebling? That's a 1/2 mile section past the pits there. Should be doing about 145 - 150 at your power level.

 

no from grid out to turn one is only about 1/4 mile.
I do brake early --aero is not friendly to me at 135. + my springs are not srong enough.
i exit turn 9 at around 106-108 (almost oem wheel diameter)
yep you are right about the 90+ factor it does make a difference--but so far mine is staying under 200. Humidity is important and glad i am not in the desert air.

I love tractors--heck maybe i can go spark assist diesal!
I didnt know you knew RR--if you are ever in the neigborhood --drop by.

 

There is a time and place for both turbos and superchargers and no, one is not always better than the other in every situation, although some think they are. It all depends on your goals as others have stated.

The dyno comparison thread wasn't really all that beneficial anyways when it comes to comparing different kits. It showed general trends which is useful but in no way spoke of overall potential. Those runs weren't even done at the same boost levels which makes any comparisons useless. I have no idea how many people base their opinions off of that thread but to me that's an inaccurate way of reaching a conclusion. If the dyno's are gone from that thread, it's no big loss. Another problem with looking at dyno charts is that they in no way tell you how a vehicle drives. A dyno is a 2D representation of a 3D problem therefore it only tells a fraction of the story and unfortunately not usually the part where most people drive most of the time.