Rasputin

Best thread I ever read on this forum. Great stuff MazdaManiac.
Thanks,

Fabrice

Greddyturbo1

Mazdamaniac, Thanks for all the help in trying to solve some of our Greddy issues,I have acouple questions I would like you to help clarify for me and educate me.

1. Your latest Acceleration Map is different than Greddy's and your earlier version, Why the change and what does this change seem to benefit..

2. Are all these changes coming from Dyno testing, AFR testing with wide band and what is your current AFR that you are running, are you staying in the 11.5-11.8 range..

3. Your earler version has an anti-stall control, your latest doesn't, does this help at all, or does it help just who have a BOV like me..

4. Your ignition map from your earlier version shows a a change from a high of -10 at 70kpa to your latest version that shows a high of -15 at 70 kpa, how does that seem to help you retarding that much, and greddy told me that doesn't work to control the timing in the e-manage.. please educate me on this also..

5. Finally does removing this temp sensor(dongle) benefit all, and is it important to remove if we where to download your latest map.

Jeff, as I said before, I appreciate all your help and I'am sure you know what you are talking about, I'am just trying to learn from the best , So please explain What ,Where and Why.... Again Thanks..

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'll try...

I don't actually use the acceleration or the NVCS MAPs in my setup. I just leave them in for those who might need them because they are using the Greddy turbo kit.
The NVCS MAP controls the dongle you mention below. If you keep it, use it. I don't have it, so it does nothing for me.

The changes are from street testing with an Innovative LM-1 wide-band attached permanently. Under load at the torque and HP peaks, I shoot for 11.5: or so, but it is not unusual to see 12.5:1 or even as high as 13.5:1 in some spots. If it doesn't knock, I don't care. When you are off of the torque and HP peaks, A/F is far les critical. If you could run at 14.7:1 without knock, you would make about the same power. 13:1 is really ideal for power. However, this doesn't give you much of a safety margin.

The anti-stall profile was to help eliminate some of the backfiring between shifts. However, it would occasionally cause the power return back in gear to be too slow, so I took it out.

I bumped up (down) the 10 PSI range by another 5° so that the 8 PSI range would be another 2° mor retarded. This is mostly as a precaution since the temps are starting to rise now in the spring and the car has never seen warm weather under boost.

Only remove it if you have the previously mentioned problems with throttle response, lean running and bucking.

Me too.

Greddyturbo1

Jeff , That's the info I'am looking for.. Thanks for taking the time . I hope I can contribute too. And thanks for being so willing to share your info with all , Some I believe will always have a price on this info... Have a good day..

Greddyturbo1

Jeff, is the latest map you have here, the one Philodox is talking about you helped him with... and if not what's the difference....

Also do you have an internal or external wastegate, depending on your answer I will have a follow-up question....

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

It is fundamentally the same MAP. There is just some differences in the timing MAP, which isn't used in the Greddy turbo kit.

I am using an internal wastegate.

Greddyturbo1

Thanks jeff, the question I have , since you have an internal wastegate is- The adjustment on the arm ( can be screwed in or out). Do you have yours adjusted where the arm just slides over the pin, without any pulling of the arm to reach the pin. Because when I first installed mine, Greddy told me to back out the rod about 2 turns because they thought the boost was to high....

I don't think that is a major issue, since I could still adjust my boost from my E-01, but was wondering your input and if there is better setting...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You can only adjust the boost up with a boost controller. You can't make it less. That is why they suggest you relieve tension on the wastegate actuator.

I have might tightened down so that it won't open until it sees 6 PSI. That equals about 4.5 PSI in the manifold. Then, I adjust it up to 8 or 9 PSI with the Profec.

A lot of it has to do with how much pressure the wastegate actuator spring is designed to hold.
You should always verify the pressure of the WG actuator with a MightyVac or something similar.

RX8PR

Greddyturbo1,

On my experience, you can increase the boost on your boost controller but
the internal waste gate can't hold it at high rpm. To control better the boost and
get more HP go with and external waste gate. For the RX8 you will need a waste gate
not to big because the're is not to much space to install it, I recommend you the turbonetics
evolution.

Regards,

Manuel

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The wastegate has nothing to do with not being able to hold boost at high RPM.
In fact, it would be the opposite. An internal wastegate might not be able to flow enough exhaust at high RPMs and cause the boost to creep upwards.

An external wastegate is nice, but completely unnecessary.

Greddyturbo1

Thanks for the info, I'am getting ready to install my Innovate LM-1 Wide band sensor, I have the Rotary performance High flow cat and will be mounting the sensor just before the convertor.. Question once I have my AFR adjusted should I upgrade to a AFR gauge and monitor it all the time, or will the sensor eventually burn out. And can I monitor AFR with the E-01 it has a harness for it . I know it might not be as accurate as the wide band, but I could compare the two and add or subtract to get a closer reading..

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately, the sensor will probably burn up very quickly in that position.
I went through 4 sensors before I moved mine to a position after the resonator (just before the coupling with the pipe before the muffler).
This was with the HBX-1 bung extender and an external heat sink.

I use the analog output from the LM-1 and run it into one of the analog inputs on the E-01. That way I get extremely accurate A/F info in the same window with all of the E-Manage functions and the boost gauge.

Greddyturbo1

Mazdamaniac, You say the sensor will burn out quickly in the position in front of the cat, but there is a sensor already in the greddy exhaust manifold pipe, is that different.. I figured once I have my AFR set I would disconnect and use the plug they give you, then just save till I have to retune or check from time to time this way it should last a long time..


Also back to your ignition map, once we start retarding the timing as you show on your map, some spots show a high of -10 retard, isn't that going to cause higher engine and turbo heat, or are we talking about a very small difference..

Jeff, in order to control timing on the greddy map/Turbo we need ignition wire harness, is this what you have to control your ignition, and if so does the harness come with instructions on what wires to splice , and do you have this info...

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

There is a wideband O2 sensor in that position, but it is heartier for some reason. The VW sensor that comes with the LM-1 (and every other WBO2S out there like AEM, LambdaBoy, etc.) just can't seem to survive. I have a graveyard of old sensors to prove it.

The high ignition retard happens at high boost. The higher EGTs are certainly less destructive than preignition and are only for a fraction of the throttle duty cycle while driving. I will add timing as I find it safe.

I have a whole thread here dedicated to installing the E-Manage. Go read it for all the info you need.

Greddyturbo1

Thanks jeff, I will read it, But I'am interested in the E-01 programing too..

Greddyturbo1

Jeff, I promise to leave you alone after this, aleast till after the weekend......
since you are operating with an E-01 ..

1. Start Boost- are you staying with 2.8psi less than Set Boost.

2. Gain - are you running 5%

3.RPM Offset - of the 8 settings where does your rpm start , and what are your increments
and I know our duty cycles might be different but what are yours..

I think that's it for now , As always I appreciate your help

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

The "Set Boost" number is a percentage of the mechanical boost threshold. "Start Boost" should be set under the target boost value.
I have mine at 6.8 PSI.
The gain is around 40%.
I am not using the RPM offset.

However, my wastegate is probably very different from the one in the Greddy kit, so the response will be different.

papajoey79

MM what program do I need to look at your fuel maps? Do you have any latest and greatest for the Greddy turbo kit, as far as maps go?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

You need the Greddy Support tool. The last MAP that I have posted is still the most current.
I would like to get a copy of the program in the most current Greddy kits to see if there have been any additional changes made.

papajoey79

I just got the tool yesterday, I'm going to try it out today. How would a person go about getting you a copy?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Getting me a copy of what?

ScudRunner

I think he meant getting you a "copy of the program in the most current Greddy kits to see if there have been any additional changes made."

Jeff, on a different note, do you talk to Scott down at Mazsport often, or ever? He's got my car right now, doing the GReddy install. I can't talk to him by phone anymore since I got to Iraq, but the last email he sent said they were busy working on something new as far as management for the GReddy kit.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I'd love that. He can just post it here in a ZIP file. The files are small.

I haven't talked to him in a while, but I guess I should give him a call.

Lock & Load

Are you referring to the Greedy E-manage upgrade to the Gold series ?

Jeff could you please check your PM

How hard would it be to make a copy of the Greedy turbo kit , as far as bending the pipes etc .

cheers
michael

GrRx8MaZdA

Well thanks Jeff again for all the great info...

The answer is what estimated gains will be from updating the emange with the posted here map??I purchased my turbo after June so i believe all things up are the latest...Will i have good-big difference with your map??Are there good hp-tq gains??

Also will i be able to install again my high-flow cat and hit good afr number and run rich or arround 12???my cat is 5" size canzoomer midp-4....


BTW Jeff will you ever come back to Greece for some days-holidays maybe-and help us also tune our setups here??? :D I wish...