Bridgeported engine results
#126
The forgestar be with you
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People use it (including myself) and it works, but it is not a miracle coolant. Basically you can run your ECT hotter without all hell coming loose. Evans has a very high boiling temp which allows you to run lower pressure, or if you get a leak and loose pressure, the boiling temp doesnt drop to an unsafe temp causing boiling and engine failure like you would see with a traditional water based coolant. Consider the stuff a safety net. I would not intentionally run extra high ECT's, but if your in the middle of a race and look down to see your temp guage in the red zone, you can back off a little, let it drop and you have probably not done any serious damage. Also, if you spring a small leak and need to limp home, you can take the coolant cap loose so no pressure will build, you will loose less coolant and you should be able to make it home.
I am about to go race happy so I am installing all the cooling mods as soon as possible. As stated in my signature I am starting with the BHR Rad and mazsport water pump/thermostat. So I figured this would be the right time to determine if I should do the coolant swap or not.
Just today parked in 89 degree weather my coolant temps were 239 at idle. If I'm not mistaken, I believe i read it somewhere, we should be around 190 to 210. I want consistant coolant temps at all times.
Anyways...I know this is off topic so no more coolant banter. Apologies. Please PM if you all have more info/suggestions. And before anyone says it...yes I searched and found the Evans thread but no real experience was discussed.
#127
Registered RX8 Nut
iTrader: (11)
Thanks...I guess I'm used to reading Olddragger's, Eric, ETC posts were they've tested and tried a few things. I was hoping for a good solid "yeah this works and this is why" which you helped greatly so thanks!
I am about to go race happy so I am installing all the cooling mods as soon as possible. As stated in my signature I am starting with the BHR Rad and mazsport water pump/thermostat. So I figured this would be the right time to determine if I should do the coolant swap or not.
Just today parked in 89 degree weather my coolant temps were 239 at idle. If I'm not mistaken, I believe i read it somewhere, we should be around 190 to 210. I want consistant coolant temps at all times.
Anyways...I know this is off topic so no more coolant banter. Apologies. Please PM if you all have more info/suggestions. And before anyone says it...yes I searched and found the Evans thread but no real experience was discussed.
I am about to go race happy so I am installing all the cooling mods as soon as possible. As stated in my signature I am starting with the BHR Rad and mazsport water pump/thermostat. So I figured this would be the right time to determine if I should do the coolant swap or not.
Just today parked in 89 degree weather my coolant temps were 239 at idle. If I'm not mistaken, I believe i read it somewhere, we should be around 190 to 210. I want consistant coolant temps at all times.
Anyways...I know this is off topic so no more coolant banter. Apologies. Please PM if you all have more info/suggestions. And before anyone says it...yes I searched and found the Evans thread but no real experience was discussed.
So do some searching, learn and thing or two and if you still cant find answers to all your questions, feel free to PM me and I can walk you through it.
#128
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Are you prepared to drop $100+ getting your coolant system water-free and loaded with Evans which requires replacement annually, but also risk the dealership, oil change monkey, or friend/coworker that you may have loaned the car to having no idea what it is and dumping water/glycol in on it, which means doing it all over again?
#129
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well based on your recent postings you are clearly a n00b in the most general, sincere sense and racing mods on a street car require a whole different attitude and approach wrt maintenance, cost, side effects, complications etc.
Are you prepared to drop $100+ getting your coolant system water-free and loaded with Evans which requires replacement annually, but also risk the dealership, oil change monkey, or friend/coworker that you may have loaned the car to having no idea what it is and dumping water/glycol in on it, which means doing it all over again?
Are you prepared to drop $100+ getting your coolant system water-free and loaded with Evans which requires replacement annually, but also risk the dealership, oil change monkey, or friend/coworker that you may have loaned the car to having no idea what it is and dumping water/glycol in on it, which means doing it all over again?
#130
Registered
Thanks...I guess I'm used to reading Olddragger's, Eric, ETC posts were they've tested and tried a few things. I was hoping for a good solid "yeah this works and this is why" which you helped greatly so thanks!
I am about to go race happy so I am installing all the cooling mods as soon as possible. As stated in my signature I am starting with the BHR Rad and mazsport water pump/thermostat. So I figured this would be the right time to determine if I should do the coolant swap or not.
Just today parked in 89 degree weather my coolant temps were 239 at idle. If I'm not mistaken, I believe i read it somewhere, we should be around 190 to 210. I want consistant coolant temps at all times.
Anyways...I know this is off topic so no more coolant banter. Apologies. Please PM if you all have more info/suggestions. And before anyone says it...yes I searched and found the Evans thread but no real experience was discussed.
I am about to go race happy so I am installing all the cooling mods as soon as possible. As stated in my signature I am starting with the BHR Rad and mazsport water pump/thermostat. So I figured this would be the right time to determine if I should do the coolant swap or not.
Just today parked in 89 degree weather my coolant temps were 239 at idle. If I'm not mistaken, I believe i read it somewhere, we should be around 190 to 210. I want consistant coolant temps at all times.
Anyways...I know this is off topic so no more coolant banter. Apologies. Please PM if you all have more info/suggestions. And before anyone says it...yes I searched and found the Evans thread but no real experience was discussed.
well based on your recent postings you are clearly a n00b in the most general, sincere sense and racing mods on a street car require a whole different attitude and approach wrt maintenance, cost, side effects, complications etc.
Are you prepared to drop $100+ getting your coolant system water-free and loaded with Evans which requires replacement annually, but also risk the dealership, oil change monkey, or friend/coworker that you may have loaned the car to having no idea what it is and dumping water/glycol in on it, which means doing it all over again?
Are you prepared to drop $100+ getting your coolant system water-free and loaded with Evans which requires replacement annually, but also risk the dealership, oil change monkey, or friend/coworker that you may have loaned the car to having no idea what it is and dumping water/glycol in on it, which means doing it all over again?
#131
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
Evans:
My recollection was bad wrt race vs. street use, but then my car doesn't see much street duty. However, based on what I see come out of there following an annual change would not make me comfortable going longer regardless. You can do your own car as you see fit though.
For racing, it is recommended that NPG-R be replaced at the end of each racing season.*
#132
No respecter of malarkey
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However, if your 239 temp at idle is correct then you need to determine the cause of this before throwing mod money at it imo. My first suspicion would be whether or not the fans are operating correctly with regard to rotational speed. The fans are in full control of the coolant temp at idle or very low vehicle speed if everything else is proper. The WP and radiator mods will not change this. Further, imo it makes no sense to run lower fan operating temps because again this only affects coolant temp when the vehicle is stopped or moving slowly. Why do you want to make your engine less efficient in that particular operating mode? That's all lowering the fan on/off temps does. With the Evans I raised my fan control temps up, not lower.
#133
The forgestar be with you
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However, if your 239 temp at idle is correct then you need to determine the cause of this before throwing mod money at it imo. My first suspicion would be whether or not the fans are operating correctly with regard to rotational speed. The fans are in full control of the coolant temp at idle or very low vehicle speed if everything else is proper. The WP and radiator mods will not change this.
Further, imo it makes no sense to run lower fan operating temps because again this only affects coolant temp when the vehicle is stopped or moving slowly. Why do you want to make your engine less efficient in that particular operating mode? That's all lowering the fan on/off temps does. With the Evans I raised my fan control temps up, not lower.
#135
Doing a mild bridge port at the end of this month , my buddy who has been racing with rotaries since the '80's will assist me in this project. He mentioned that a mild port for the Renesis will do best since a full bridge port will bring about heat issues ,poor mileage and other problems. My apex seals are very worn now, hard starting seems to be getting worse than better , even with premixing. 164k on her , I was sure i was going to make it to 200k. Depending on what we find , I may have to get a new rear rotary housing if it shows chopping on the surface of the inner housing.
Also I noticed and he knew this already, the Renesis exhaust ports exit from the intermediats... where as the older 13B's the exhaust exit from the roatary housing. He wants to try and experiment with using the old 13B motor with full port work before trying to use my rebuilt motor. I'll keep you guys posted....
Also I noticed and he knew this already, the Renesis exhaust ports exit from the intermediats... where as the older 13B's the exhaust exit from the roatary housing. He wants to try and experiment with using the old 13B motor with full port work before trying to use my rebuilt motor. I'll keep you guys posted....
#137
Doing a mild bridge port at the end of this month , my buddy who has been racing with rotaries since the '80's will assist me in this project. He mentioned that a mild port for the Renesis will do best since a full bridge port will bring about heat issues ,poor mileage and other problems. My apex seals are very worn now, hard starting seems to be getting worse than better , even with premixing. 164k on her , I was sure i was going to make it to 200k. Depending on what we find , I may have to get a new rear rotary housing if it shows chopping on the surface of the inner housing.
Also I noticed and he knew this already, the Renesis exhaust ports exit from the intermediats... where as the older 13B's the exhaust exit from the roatary housing. He wants to try and experiment with using the old 13B motor with full port work before trying to use my rebuilt motor. I'll keep you guys posted....
Also I noticed and he knew this already, the Renesis exhaust ports exit from the intermediats... where as the older 13B's the exhaust exit from the roatary housing. He wants to try and experiment with using the old 13B motor with full port work before trying to use my rebuilt motor. I'll keep you guys posted....
#138
He did mention taking the Renesis guts and using them in a older 13B housing...I'll wait and see what direction he wants to go with this. I'll be a good assistant, keep my mouth shut and just watch and learn.
#140
Oh he does....
A few guys in the Tampa area are still driving his cars that he built from the '80's on up. He built many 8 sec rotary RX-7's,a few road racing RX-7's. He had a tubbed out RX-2 he sold not to long ago that ran high 7's in the 1/4 mile. Now he is building a twin turbo '86 RX-7 as his toy. Trust me , he knows his stuff.
A few guys in the Tampa area are still driving his cars that he built from the '80's on up. He built many 8 sec rotary RX-7's,a few road racing RX-7's. He had a tubbed out RX-2 he sold not to long ago that ran high 7's in the 1/4 mile. Now he is building a twin turbo '86 RX-7 as his toy. Trust me , he knows his stuff.
#141
Many of those who specialize in the older 13B's and the RX-7 platform have encountered all kinds of surprises when they operate under certain assumptions when approaching the Renesis and the RX-8.
#142
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
He may know his stuff but you clearly do not. In addition to the big doodly talk BS you can't full bridgeport a Renesis even if you wanted to. When you actually have something to talk about it would be interesting to hear about, but until then please spare us the big plans speech as we have heard it all before. Even then this is a bridgeport thread so if you only do a mild port then please post it elsewhere
#143
He may know his stuff but you clearly do not. In addition to the big doodly talk BS you can't full bridgeport a Renesis even if you wanted to. When you actually have something to talk about it would be interesting to hear about, but until then please spare us the big plans speech as we have heard it all before. Even then this is a bridgeport thread so if you only do a mild port then please post it elsewhere
That is why I may go with an older 13B housing if its possible with renesis guts... Also i know you can't go a full bridge port, and he knows that too.
Your right , i don't know alot about rotaries as this is my first. I know about piston engines and built some pretty nice motors in the past. The big speech plans go in effect 3 weeks. Your right talk is cheap... so until then I'll be on the sidelines till then.
Cheers!
Last edited by DailyDriver2k5; 12-02-2011 at 12:06 PM.
#144
Gold Wheels FTW
iTrader: (1)
What good are old 13b housings going to do for you? Do you plan on having custom tuned exhaust manifold made to support the flow? I just don't see the point when the stock exhaust ports flow more than adequately for a NA engine. If you were going with huge FI, I could begin to see an advantage in do it, but even then, it may be questionable at best, and probably not worth the huge cost of the custom manifold. You can actually loose HP if you have a poorly tuned (designed for the application) manifold.
#145
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
making yourself look silly doesn't offend me, but building an older 13B with Renesis internals still has nothing to do with this particular thread since it will not be a Renesis then either.
Instead of going on and on about your buddy why not just tell us his name? Surely he must be well known in the rotary community based on your glowing list of accomplishments, meaning you only need to say his name.
Instead of going on and on about your buddy why not just tell us his name? Surely he must be well known in the rotary community based on your glowing list of accomplishments, meaning you only need to say his name.
Oh I must of offended you all knowing...(roll eyes)
That is why I may go with an older 13B housing if its possible with renesis guts... Also i know you can't go a full bridge port, and he knows that too.
Your right , i don't know alot about rotaries as this is my first. I know about piston engines and built some pretty nice motors in the past. The big speech plans go in effect 3 weeks. Your right talk is cheap... so until then I'll be on the sidelines till then.
Cheers!
That is why I may go with an older 13B housing if its possible with renesis guts... Also i know you can't go a full bridge port, and he knows that too.
Your right , i don't know alot about rotaries as this is my first. I know about piston engines and built some pretty nice motors in the past. The big speech plans go in effect 3 weeks. Your right talk is cheap... so until then I'll be on the sidelines till then.
Cheers!
#148
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
#149
What good are old 13b housings going to do for you? Do you plan on having custom tuned exhaust manifold made to support the flow? I just don't see the point when the stock exhaust ports flow more than adequately for a NA engine. If you were going with huge FI, I could begin to see an advantage in do it, but even then, it may be questionable at best, and probably not worth the huge cost of the custom manifold. You can actually loose HP if you have a poorly tuned (designed for the application) manifold.
The side exhaust is a very nice thing, especially in a NA car. Peripherals let the exhaust gasses pulse out of the engine in a different way, more suited to spool up a nice turbo or for high rpm racing. In a daily driving scenario or even a "human" track car i'll take the side exhaust ports anyway.