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I had that 2-3 shift issue with a NA S5 gearbox... it was rebuilt by a well-known engine builder (who also did transmissions), but the issue remained after he rebuilt it and warrantied that rebuild. I'm guessing there was probably a similar issue.
Glad you found it. These transmissions are very nice when working well.
they break easier under power than the similar FD box, but should be fine for your purposes.
the issue being that Mazda made the gears narrower to fit in the extra synchros that the FD box doesn’t have.
The FD guts can be swapped in, but then you get a 30 year old design that has known issues like 5th gear synchro going bad.
not really any other good options without spending $4k - $5k making the initial swap, but in the long run it can be less expensive without the headaches
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Yes .... I know that ...now. For some reason I just expected the turbo to fill the same space and didn't even look at the specs.
Makes absolutely no sense to me why they moved it around but ...lesson learned.
Even with the specs ...I wouldn't have guessed they would change the position of the mounting flange center line (which isn't shown there).
I saw that Pulsar sells a V-band to T3 adapter, but it adds about 1” to the flange length
I suppose it might be a fitment issue in that direction? Though I’m not sure how the flange position lines up between the two that way?
Definitely not enough clearance for that. I think it ends up less than 1" as the v band is back a bit vs the T3 but it will still ad 15mm or so and that is too much.
Another day of cruising and roll racing yesterday at the 'Farewell Pukekohe' meet. This was the last public playday for this Iconic racetrack before it gets turned into a housing development. Sad day for NZ motorsport.
Anyway, I had a blast . This car on 12psi with a bone stock Renesis against all manner of performance car (most heavily modified ) held it's own admirably. For the day (maybe 25 roll races) I only got beaten by three other cars ... a 3 rotor turbo Rx3 totally annihilated me (even though I got a sizeable jump on him), a late model AMG Merc by less than two car lengths , a highly modded evo, was even till I missed 3rd.
Best race of the day was vs late model modded V8 HSV commodore .... went door to door the whole way down the back straight 2nd 3rd and 4th (over 200km/hr by the time we backed off). Took on a couple of late model V8 mustangs...no problem for the little 1.3 Renesis.
The actual organised roll racing was a disappointment. Had to sit in the sun with engine heat soaking for a good half hour before I got to race. Was concerned about IATs but I did have a little extra ethanol in the tank so took the risk. Only two races in that session the first with a Honda Type R where I think he forgot it was a race the second with a V8 commodore that I won by several car lengths (must have been stock).
There were only five 8s there today this was our group ...........
Had such a good time yesterday , I decided to go back for the competition phase today .
Lined up for the roll race competition hoping to make a good showing as a lot of the cars that lined up I'd already raced in the cruise sessions. Had one practice run which ended up being with the GTR pictured sitting behind my 8. He took me by about three car lengths so ........... I tried to avoid him for the first elimination run. But didn't work as I ended up racing him again ... grrrrrr!
The only way I could win was if he DQd so I tried to get him to jump me at the start but he just hung back because he knew he could take me .......... which he did ...by a little bit more this time . Oh well ..... it's not like I stood any show, as the top cars were running chutes which was a def. clue as to how quick they were.
looking toward the start line . N/A cars on the right ...open class on left .
As I was one of the first to get eliminated , I ended up in pits behind first and second place getters in the N/A competition. On right a heavily modified v8 came in second vs the 3 rotor 808 wagon which won it.
After that session I decided to do another cruise session which went on for over an hour . I stayed on track and had countless roll races with all manner of machinery . One of the more memorable races was with an F type Jag .... was pretty even but he started pulling away slightly once we got over about 160km/hr .That's the only one I recall losing today but didn't have anyone else in the car which def. made a difference. Definitely noticed a lot of cars trying to avoid me today. Maybe because they didn't want to get owned by an 8 ?????..... One in particular was an Audi RS6 targa race car ..... I eventually forced a race with him and showed him my tailpipes.
Engine/turbo/manifold still running great after that weekend of solid punishment!
Strange noise turned out to be a couple of loose bolts holding turbo to manifold . Need to find a solution to that as it's happened before.!
I think I may have fixed this. All I did was fit some stainless spring washers under the bolt heads. Wasn't sure if it would work as I know they will lose their spring under that much heat. But they have held up well so far under punishment. Will replace them whenever I take the turbo out so will keep some on hand from now on.
Brett, have you looked at Nord-Lock washers, www.nord-lock.com.
They allow the bolt to be tightened and the two halfs of the washer lock together and hold the bolt very tight.
The washer basically bits into the bolt and the surface its locking onto and stops the bolt from coming undone.
I have used these type of washer before and found them to work very well. Not sure how much heat they would take, but might be worth looking at.
Requires surface to be covered in none or very little paint to work, assuming thats not going to be a problem for this application And it requires that bolt is torqued enough to have been stretched a bit.
Nordlocks also have the X-series which are slightly curved to provide a spring effect on top of the normal locking design.
They can also be ordered in a variety of materials including Inconel 718 for high temp resistance.
Started running this after my local Motul supplier ran out of stock. Had a bit of a read up on RX7 site and this seemed a good choice for use with ethanol mixes. So far it's been fine (only one tank of gas used)
A few things :1/ It requires mixing . I noticed it just dropped to bottom of my 20L container when poured in whereas the Motul micro 2t would mix instantly by itself. No sign of any separation after a month of sitting though.
2/ Can't beat that caster smell
3/ I decided a couple of years back that I'd just run a relatively low ethanol content (20%) and just add premix to counter the ethanol at 80:1 ethanol/premix. This works out at 400:1 for a tank. I also upped the omp rate by fitting the larger piston to the primary pump. This strategy is working well. Only drawback is too much oil at idle ...not a biggie.
My experience is that Castor is nasty long term. Beware. Lots of unpleasant deposits, all through the machine, from gas tank to exhaust. Even at low % mixtures (both for the oil formulation blend and the fuel/oil mixture). If you plan to store the car for any extended time, run something else through it before doing so. I've had injectors get glued shut, never mind what it did to carbs. More dangerous for you is that the injectors will work but flow less and lean you out when you need output. I used to be a big fan of Castor blends, now no more. I don't run alcohol, so beyond this I have no info.
That being said, Klotz is a great company. Good oil if you intend frequent teardowns and want max protection. Many of those bottles found in the pits at motorcycle events, for 50+ years.
The make Castor candles too, for the true gearhead.
Last edited by kevink0000; Jul 16, 2023 at 07:04 AM.
Well I'm pretty sure the Motul was the cause of some pretty bad deposits as well. Seems to be a common theme for anyone running ethanol and premix. At 400:1 I doubt I'll experience anything as significant as what you are talking about. I'll be wary though , thanks for the heads up.
I remember castor oil being used heavily in methanol-based fuel for glow engines in radio-controlled anything. Granted that 10-15-20% of that fuel was actually castor oil, if we didn't wipe off the model of that unburnt oil then we weren't getting it out ever again. Then, at the beginning of every season we had to fight carbs till they cleared themselves of old oil that sat in them. Yucky thing... gave up on glow engines and went to gasoline 2strokers pretty fast. So no, I wouldn't use it on my rotary. Motul 510 at 10$ / liter is fine.
Just following the advice given on the 7 forum by someone with more real world experience than both of us. I would try the enviro premix you have been pushing if It was available to me btw.
I remember castor oil being used heavily in methanol-based fuel for glow engines in radio-controlled anything. Granted that 10-15-20% of that fuel was actually castor oil, if we didn't wipe off the model of that unburnt oil then we weren't getting it out ever again. Then, at the beginning of every season we had to fight carbs till they cleared themselves of old oil that sat in them. Yucky thing... gave up on glow engines and went to gasoline 2strokers pretty fast. So no, I wouldn't use it on my rotary. Motul 510 at 10$ / liter is fine.
Castor is actually THE ULTIMATE lubricant you can have. Castor is the natural source of Ester oils. The ones we try to make synthetically. Synthetic Ester oil break up at 100-200degC sooner than natural Ester oil.
The problem with RC is most of us have use natural castor, which is not what you should use. Those also separated from the fuel very quickly. It should be de-gummed. That removes part (most) of the problem.
With Castor marketed oils, one should be careful as some are heavily diluted with synthetic ester oil (some up to 5% castor, 95% synth). Some show it clearly, most hide it and you have to find it in the SDS.
I run Putoline castor R.
In other words, all talk and no understanding again
and Brettus, more world experience than my own is not accounting for my own sources, which you should well know better by now and very dishonest of you to tout a forum source over pro race engine builders. So sick of your dishonest fabrications, it’s like watching a toilet overflowing guile all over the forum floor. Worse is the other people on here who don’t shineola from feces and believe you.
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I see you are back spreading your vitriol again. You should have stayed over in the 7 forum ... but I see they are onto your lack of experience there as well now!
Never mind ..go and ask your experts ... looks like you need some backup.
Now where did I see that pipe layout before ? :D Good job. If you want to play with the tune a bit and make it easier to start, then scale your maf table so that it never reads lower than 2g/s then tweak the cranking fuel PW table.
Been on this car 4-5 years so ........ this car maybe ?
Originally Posted by ciprianrx8
If you want to play with the tune a bit and make it easier to start, then scale your maf table so that it never reads lower than 2g/s then tweak the cranking fuel PW table.
Haven't needed to try that yet but will keep it in mind if I have issues. Thanks
And it requires that bolt is torqued enough to have been stretched a bit.
