shambo

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

it doesn't take any skill to post that kind of BS either, same for pretty much anything you have posted on the forum in general.

shambo

lighten up ffs, you got a wire loose or something? it was only a joke.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

I wasn't joking, go play your childish games somewhere else

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully this is okay, but I found this at ATPTurbo.com

with the options you can pick a .82 or .63 housing, and if you need the 3" v-band its an extra 50,
all in all 300 isn't bad.

On my turbo I started with a 1.00 divided a/r then got a .84 divided, been thinking about doing the .70 divided..... for my turbo there is also a .61 undivided.

T31 V-band Turbine Housing FOR GT28/GTX28, GTX29, GT30/GTX30, GT35/GTX35 : atpturbo.com

firecran

iTrader: (3)

It fits (8374) but its very tight BFH mod needed.

Anyways, I'm sure a EFR top mount would out spool that low mount GT35R.
These turbos have unbelievable spool!

Like Team said **** has been happening for awhile just not here... 8 club is way behind the times or could it be all the know it all's, don't know it all.

.

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

I think it comes down to money too, gt is like 1600$ the efr's are what 3000-4000$?

firecran

iTrader: (3)

Nope $2200 shipped... Little higher cost but includes WG, BOV, BC

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

My quote was just under $2,000.00 shipped for the 7670, slightly different than the listed price from fullrace.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

yes, not only includes all those peripheral parts you need with another standard turbo, but there's also the cost to pipe & plump them all in that you save with the EFR as well ...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Cool ... got pics ?

Probably .... someone should do it . I'm not a fan of top mounts otherwise I would have done it myself.

Is this supposed to be an insult ?

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

You need to improve your reading skills .


I just thought with all the fanboi ism you must be on the sales team

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Your head must be made of wurtzite boron nitride because there's nothing else on this planet that can be that hard.

Nothing else matches your hubris though ...

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I find it amusing that you actually thought about this yet still can't see the wood for the trees and keep insisting a 0.83 is the way to go.
The modification I plan to do will work ...

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

If it was as easy as slapping on a properly sized turbocharger the problem would have been solved long ago. I like the plan Brettus, and I think it has a much better chance of long term success then just going with a smaller hot side snail.

It's really easy to say what will spool best, or where it will spool, but there is no solid consensus on why turbocharged Renesis engines die so fast. I believe backpressure is large part of that, EGT is part of it too, and so is detonation.

The EFR turbo's are nice, they get away with lower flows with an internal bypass which is cute, but hot side about the same as any other. The only benefit they have is the low end on the cold side, and an antisurge housing can give you some of that. That turbo alone won't solve any of our problems.

But it's amusing to watch the debate. Oh and I still think you need a second stage of water injection.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

100% .... the bashers aren't thinking about why the Renesis has proved so hard to tame in the past.

Exactly !

I'll definitely consider that . You are one person on here that has given me good solid ideas that actually work ! Keep them coming

BigBadChris

iTrader: (4)

I am curious. How would the second stage work? I admit I don't know a lot about them. Could you T off the boost line, and hook it to another controller, using a pump with a higher CC outlet? There must be a better way than buying two controllers and two pumps.

Example:

Kit 1 250 cc operates 5 psi >> 10 psi

Kit 2 500 cc operates 10 psi >> 20 psi

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Just put a solenoid with a second nozzle and a hobbs switch. Another 300cc at 14psi would be a good start. You'll have to do some trial and error to get the sizing right.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It could be done just with a solenoid and another nozzle . Triggered by an rpm signal in line with the boost signal line .

Or .... just buy a system designed to ramp up as rpm increases .

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

All the systems I've seen that ramp with PWM on the pump are crap. Triggering solenoids with boost pressure, or with boost pressure and RPM is a good way to do it. A PWM metering valve is another good way to do it, but then you need the hardware. Any way you do it should be bench tested for proper flow, and the injection pressure should be high enough that boost pressure doesn't drastically effect flow.

BigBadChris

iTrader: (4)

I apologize for the thread jack.

Harlan, is there an off the shelf kit that isn't crap?

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Aquamist has a PWM valve kit that looks good but it's $700. Devils own has a pressure switch based kit at $300, and their pumps are decent. Snow Performance has a few kits but they are overpriced and hyped. Probably other options out there, but the technology is the same across the board the only difference is the price tag.

I recommend you either get the Aquamist kit, or get the parts together to make your own kit. Because everything else is about the same and overpriced.

shambo

if you were running an aftermarket ecu that had staged injection you could in theory setup the second stage for water injection using fuel injectors. you'd then have pretty much full control over flow @ rpm by altering duty cycle.

Probably costly to setup but it would be an ideal situation.

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

That's kinda what I'm running. It's pretty simple to get a microcontroller to read MAF and give a PWM signal to an injector. Not even that expensive, but you have to clean/replace injectors regularly.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Technically I would have never gone this route from the beginning, which I can't question anything without getting dumped on for being negative/unhappy, but I also can't hold back and try to be supportive without getting an accusation like that either.

You already went there on the manifold. Putting on the .83 housing is a simple step to see what the result is. I wouldn't have done any number of things you did/are doing, like skipping the billet compressor wheel just so you can inject AI pre-turbo, which I don't agree with pre-intercooler AI let alone pre-turbo AI either. You're the guy who said this was going to spool like a ****.; well, no it doesn't. A new motor will help some, but it won't get to where you projected then. I'm just trying to help get you out of the whole you already dug for yourself. If you intend to start over and make some wiser choices then it's a different ball game.

Here's a news flash for you, a top mount 8374 out of the box will crush where you are now. But this is the way it always go with us. You bagged me over the center port divider this same way. You bagged me a out the oversize Greddy compressor wheel the same way. It seems to me you will try to do anything to prove me wrong, so why not install a 0.83 turbine unless your even more afraid of finding out it was a better move?

That said, I really do hope you get there, but you're not there yet. Wild projections on what you "end up with" is meaningless. Right now, it looks just like what would be expected for throwing on a big oversized turbo coupled with a few other less than ideal choices; poor spool, no low or mid-range torque, but eventually a big top end number with max torque and hp peaks right on top of each other.

It'll take more than a snearing attitude to change that for the better ...