05rex8

iTrader: (7)

my engine is 17-18 in vac at operating temps
I would be worried about the 12
definitely check all couplers and vac hoses
check your jet air hose too...I've had mine blow off in boost once. I now have it clamped on both ends

also another thing to consider, a blown rotary still starts up and idles usually; especially when cold

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

^Oh yeah, that's right, clamp the jet air hose on BOTH ends, otherwise it can blow off, and it's a PITA to get to without pulling the UIM (which isn't that big of a deal).

blackenedwings

So I'm not sure what is going on... because my idle vac is back to 16, car pulls like crazy... acts like nothing was ever wrong. Besides needing to change my pants and waiting on a response from Jeff before I try anymore WOT passes in low gears (high gears have TONS of fuel) not much else I can do. Do atmospheric changes or temp changes account for vacuum at all? It was nearly 100 degrees today when I noticed the vac being lower, and much cooler now. :shrug

blackenedwings

Well, it was nearly 100 degrees out and coolant temps at ~205 and it started up fine, and idle at no point was changed. No change in exhaust note, no marbles in a can, no loss in power...

I definitely don't think there was any damage done, I just don't know why there was the variance in vacuum. Also, where do you guys have your vacuum line for boost gauge connected? Mine is connected to the lower intake manifold near the windshield wiper reservior.

NgoRX8

iTrader: (1)

reconnect it to the nipple behind the throttle body

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

blackenedwings

Yeah, Jeff yelled at me too, I can definitely move it to the VFAD nipple... is that going to change the vacuum value significantly? Because my idle vac has never ever been lower than 16 even NA, and I had a compression test before I put the turbo on that came up great... so the motor has good compression.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

I've had 4 different motors in this car with the turbo setup and my idle vacuum has always been in the 15" range at idle, no matter what.
Some days it will randomly sit around 17" or so, but that is dependent on the temperature of the motor.
I am at 1200 feet above sea-level and it picks up an inch or two when I go to the coast, but it also looses an inch or so when the motor gets really hot.
I've just stopped worrying about it.
The current motor as the most erratic idle vacuum I've ever experienced and it is also the most powerful and responsive motor I've had in the car.
Even more interesting - it is entirely assembled out of junk and used, mismatched parts.
Go figure.

blackenedwings

Well, there definitely doesn't appear to be any lasting damage whatsoever from my little incident today... but I'm definitely going to take it easier until I get an updated map. It seems there are a few areas in 1st & 2nd that are pretty lean. 3rd-6th are totally fine in WOT, in fact being overly rich. The car has been driving great the last couple of days until the WOT mishap this morning.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

were you near redline when it happened? mine will backfire too when i redline and let off the gas. seems to be normal with a catless exhaust.

blackenedwings

No, it wasn't the backfire that scared me... believe me, I'm accustomed to that by now, but it was a particularly violent backfire (single VERY loud bang) accompanied with a stutter, almost like it was flooded with too much fuel, but I saw the AFRs were way lean, so I immediately pulled off throttle. Then the fact that the car took a couple of cranks to start the next time I started it freaked me. I'm pretty paranoid about the car, esp since I just got it back. The other thing I've seen a few times now since I got the car back from PFS that I cannot figure out is occasionally (like 3-4 times since I've had the car back) if I accelerate, then go out of gear and coast, the ECU flips out lights come on light christmas trees on the dash and the throttle goes dead. If I change gears and press the gas everything comes on fine and drives like normal. Each time its happened has been a totally isolated incident, but its been the same MO each time, accelerate quickly, then coast out of gear.... ECU goes bleh. There are definitely some bugs I need to work out.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

don't coast out of gear

MazdaEight

No video yet?

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

I would vote your motor is fine, just be careful about boost until you're fully tuned...

blackenedwings

Yeah, logs are in to Jeff, if he needs more logs I'll take them, but its behaving fine now. Not doing any WOT passes in 1st-2nd just to be sure until I get an updated tune. 3rd is almost perfect and it gets progressively richer as I go up. More fuel than needed in the upper gears.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

i thought you were getting black couplers?

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

some pix

blackenedwings

That was another one of those things I was told by PFS that didn't actually happen.

It's not a big deal, the couplers I have are 3-ply silicone from Extreme PSI and should do the trick. They actually don't look bad imo because all of my wires and vacuum lines are red/blue as well.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

oh ok. i originally planned on using black couplers. let me know if you need any of them. i have lots of extras.

blackenedwings

So when Jeff was in town and the MAF was all screwed up, we were having trouble getting the boost controller to properly raise the boost. So in certain ranges the boost was raised pretty high to get it to boost to ~9 psi in the proper ranges. Now that the MAF is fixed, I guess its actually responding the proper amount. I hit WOT in 5th today, as there was plenty of fuel (at least 11.2 AFR) and it wasn't too much fuel to hit boost. I went WOT and saw 11 PSI at full boost. Holy **** it was fast. I wish I was datalogging to see what I was flowing at the time.