9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
07-04-2011, 08:56 AM
#451
SARX Legend
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If you have white smoke in the summertime--that maybe a small coolant leak on cold start?
The leak may seal itself after the engine warms due to metal expansion?
In the summertime you shouldnt have any condensation smoke on start up---winter temps-- yep maybe?
But a coolant leak that small shouldnt make the engine run like what yours is doing ?
Smart to check the coils/ignition, but I dont understand why it changes after the engine warms up?
Did you say your vacuum is only 15/16? Is that cold or hot--does it change?
Glad (in a way) I am not the only one with gremlins!
The leak may seal itself after the engine warms due to metal expansion?
In the summertime you shouldnt have any condensation smoke on start up---winter temps-- yep maybe?
But a coolant leak that small shouldnt make the engine run like what yours is doing ?
Smart to check the coils/ignition, but I dont understand why it changes after the engine warms up?
Did you say your vacuum is only 15/16? Is that cold or hot--does it change?
Glad (in a way) I am not the only one with gremlins!
The white smoke is hit or miss and I have noticed that is somewhat dependent on the premix I am using. But you could be right.
The vacuum reading is hot at idle.
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rob babicki (06-22-2021)
07-04-2011, 10:00 AM
#454
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Okay guys, I will have the video up soon but I tested the coils with a timing light and on the wire that leads to the L2 plug the timing lights blinks like crazy. The frame rate of my cell phone sucks so you can't tell how fast it is blinking but it is a constant blink. I also tested every other wire and it blinks too, just not as fast for some reason as on the L2 wire.
Charles told me to do this and I found a GM coil test on you tube and it says if it's blinking, it's misfiring. I am actually relieved. I guess it could be my ignition wiring but likely it is the coils.
I have Hoss-05' car here with the BHR kit as well, I'm going to test it right now.
Charles told me to do this and I found a GM coil test on you tube and it says if it's blinking, it's misfiring. I am actually relieved. I guess it could be my ignition wiring but likely it is the coils.
I have Hoss-05' car here with the BHR kit as well, I'm going to test it right now.
07-04-2011, 10:16 AM
#456
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Okay, tested Hoss-05's car and the light only slightly flicker on each wire, barely enough to see, almost completely steady. I would have to say I am misfiring. Right now I'm not getting a misfire code though. I guess I will wait to hear from Charles and see what he recommends next.
07-04-2011, 10:58 AM
#460
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Okay here is a vid of the the test on the L2 wire. It's choppy but you get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayx3c1hdim0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayx3c1hdim0
07-04-2011, 02:43 PM
#463
much better than a seal!!!!
Sounds like the plug wasnt lighting off good enough and that probably was just a build up on the spark plug?
No ignition coil is indistructable. Sure glad you where not under heavy load during this. Wow.
Maybe the heat got to it? Dunno?
You can just swap trailing for leading coils and see if its better? less work that a way?
Sounds like the plug wasnt lighting off good enough and that probably was just a build up on the spark plug?
No ignition coil is indistructable. Sure glad you where not under heavy load during this. Wow.
Maybe the heat got to it? Dunno?
You can just swap trailing for leading coils and see if its better? less work that a way?
07-04-2011, 11:13 PM
#465
Maybe I missed something, because I failed to see any real progress yet zeroing in any closer to what the problem is. I had an idle control problem and my resolution was to use a Cobb suggestion to add additional MAF map tables around the expected idle range. Since I only see max MAF rates around 270 g/s NA there were plenty of tables available above that figure without compromising the original factory MAF table detail. I also enhanced it in the same way in a few critical areas where intake valves kick in for the same reason.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 07-04-2011 at 11:15 PM.
07-05-2011, 09:02 AM
#467
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Maybe I missed something, because I failed to see any real progress yet zeroing in any closer to what the problem is. I had an idle control problem and my resolution was to use a Cobb suggestion to add additional MAF map tables around the expected idle range. Since I only see max MAF rates around 270 g/s NA there were plenty of tables available above that figure without compromising the original factory MAF table detail. I also enhanced it in the same way in a few critical areas where intake valves kick in for the same reason.
270g/s? Geesh. I actually uninstalled the Cobb and went back to the OEM tune and it made no difference. So you don't think it's the coils? I found a video online that detailed how to test the coils and basically if the light is blinking, the coil is misfiring.
07-11-2011, 11:09 AM
#470
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Okay guys, I should have listened to OD a long time ago. Since new, in the summer I have been able to get coolant temps to 220-230F pretty easily when the car is pushed hard in 100F temps. The ultimate test has been during runs through the canyons during the texas8 or on SARX runs where do long sections at relatively low speeds and stay in 2nd, 3rd gear near redline.
After losing my radiator and water pump belt during one of those runs I replaced the OEM unit with a Koyo replacement. With the Koyo I always ran a bit hotter but ducting around it did help a bit and get me back to normal but I could still heat soak the car and get to 220F when pushed hard and even 230+ once while stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour last summer when it was 100F+.
Well, I had an opportunity to get the Mizu rad/fan for free so I jumped at it and after sealing everything up I found that it was pretty comparable to the Koyo and the OEM in terms of normal day to day temps and max temps when pushed hard. But once it reached max temps it was quicker at bringing those temps down but only by about 2 minutes.
Anyway, the max temps are what worried me so I decided to go with a secondary radiator in the passenger side factory oil cooler location. I went with this Long (good stuff) unit I purchased for $54.00 brand new from a race team on Ebay. It was bigger than I wanted which made for a tight fit but it worked.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5926772104/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5926359735/
Let me just tell you that it works insanely well. I took a little road trip yesterday through the hills with two passengers, AC on, pushing hard to near redline through the curves, and I could not get the temps above 210F. I don't want to brag too much so early on but as of now it is working perfect. Splicing into the factory 5/8" heater hose was a breeze and for the money, this is just a great way to get the water temps down.
I am still undecided about deleting my fog lights.
After losing my radiator and water pump belt during one of those runs I replaced the OEM unit with a Koyo replacement. With the Koyo I always ran a bit hotter but ducting around it did help a bit and get me back to normal but I could still heat soak the car and get to 220F when pushed hard and even 230+ once while stuck in bumper to bumper traffic for an hour last summer when it was 100F+.
Well, I had an opportunity to get the Mizu rad/fan for free so I jumped at it and after sealing everything up I found that it was pretty comparable to the Koyo and the OEM in terms of normal day to day temps and max temps when pushed hard. But once it reached max temps it was quicker at bringing those temps down but only by about 2 minutes.
Anyway, the max temps are what worried me so I decided to go with a secondary radiator in the passenger side factory oil cooler location. I went with this Long (good stuff) unit I purchased for $54.00 brand new from a race team on Ebay. It was bigger than I wanted which made for a tight fit but it worked.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5926772104/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5926359735/
Let me just tell you that it works insanely well. I took a little road trip yesterday through the hills with two passengers, AC on, pushing hard to near redline through the curves, and I could not get the temps above 210F. I don't want to brag too much so early on but as of now it is working perfect. Splicing into the factory 5/8" heater hose was a breeze and for the money, this is just a great way to get the water temps down.
I am still undecided about deleting my fog lights.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 07-11-2011 at 11:26 AM.
07-11-2011, 12:33 PM
#471
SPOOLN8
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^ Looks real good man, have you gotten everything sorted with the coils? When are you expecting to have the compression test done?
I'm sure its on here already but I'm in one of those non-searching moods; but you converted to a single aftermarket oil cooler then?
I'm sure its on here already but I'm in one of those non-searching moods; but you converted to a single aftermarket oil cooler then?
