9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
03-19-2013, 05:32 PM
#3202
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Well hopefully now that my mechanical issues are fixed I can sort the tune out when I get time. I am still seeing 10.0 at full tilt and I get spark blow out when that happens.
03-19-2013, 07:05 PM
#3203
that is pretty rich. I know I dont have to tell you to watch out for oil dilution
If you are having blowout--you may want to try the colder denso (27's) leading plugs and set the gap at around 30-32. The surface gap plug almost require a cdi type ignition to work right. Just a thought?
Have you thought about by running the "shorter" reach plug in the leading positioning--you are actually retarding your timing a little too?
If you are having blowout--you may want to try the colder denso (27's) leading plugs and set the gap at around 30-32. The surface gap plug almost require a cdi type ignition to work right. Just a thought?
Have you thought about by running the "shorter" reach plug in the leading positioning--you are actually retarding your timing a little too?
03-20-2013, 09:23 AM
#3205
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
that is pretty rich. I know I dont have to tell you to watch out for oil dilution
If you are having blowout--you may want to try the colder denso (27's) leading plugs and set the gap at around 30-32. The surface gap plug almost require a cdi type ignition to work right. Just a thought?
Have you thought about by running the "shorter" reach plug in the leading positioning--you are actually retarding your timing a little too?
If you are having blowout--you may want to try the colder denso (27's) leading plugs and set the gap at around 30-32. The surface gap plug almost require a cdi type ignition to work right. Just a thought?
Have you thought about by running the "shorter" reach plug in the leading positioning--you are actually retarding your timing a little too?
03-20-2013, 11:56 PM
#3208
Un-Registered User
What coils are you using Team if I may ask?
03-21-2013, 06:22 PM
#3211
true that. Those coils have a lot of potential--but getting the dwell right is a challenge--at least for me. For others it is really not a problem. Sigh.
Point is though you shouldnt have blow out with a strong ignition system.
try some other type plug??.
Point is though you shouldnt have blow out with a strong ignition system.
try some other type plug??.
03-22-2013, 12:06 AM
#3212
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Stupid image bbcode is not working but her is a link to a screenshot
http://flic.kr/p/e54184
03-22-2013, 03:00 AM
#3213
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Yep, BHR kit.
Stupid image bbcode is not working but her is a link to a screenshot
dwell | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Stupid image bbcode is not working but her is a link to a screenshot
dwell | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
+1 Like !!!
03-22-2013, 11:08 AM
#3219
it's the table I have been using for quite a while with my GM truck coils
be advised that you should always go slow to start and check/tune AFR, timing, etc. as may be necessary following any dwell map changes ...
the map is not fully maxed out, just close with some margin
.
be advised that you should always go slow to start and check/tune AFR, timing, etc. as may be necessary following any dwell map changes ...
the map is not fully maxed out, just close with some margin
.
03-22-2013, 11:03 PM
#3222
03-26-2013, 11:23 PM
#3223
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay guys, rather than start a new thread I figure I will post here.
My car has hard starts. It starts everytime but long cranking times whether stone cold or hot as F#!k.
So, despite it being the same hot or cold and being an experienced rotary owner I automatically assume it is low compression,
even though I have never gone lean and the engine only has 10k on it.
My good buddy comes over with his Mazda compression tester and laptop and we hook it up. We did two tests and then upload the data to his laptop which is running the Mazda compression software and the results are good, within spec. However, the cranking RPM was only 170RPM so the readings were at the bottom of the "within spec" scale. But either way it is good enough (for now).
The cranking speed did not change even with a booster on the battery or with another 100% charged battery hooked up with jumper cables.
So, my next test is at the starter itself. According to the FSM, the minimum voltage should be 11.0V and between 90-100A. Think it could be in the wiring harness?
My car has hard starts. It starts everytime but long cranking times whether stone cold or hot as F#!k.
- Battery is good and I also tested and tried another battery that is only a few months old. And both batteries are up rated over stock in terms of CA and CCA.
- I replaced my aging original starter with a new 2kw Denso unit
- BHR kit with year old or less wires and coils.
- New plugs (changed thinking they were fouled)
- Reverted my battery relocation back to front to rule that out but it had somewhat hard start before that anyway
- Voltage once the car is started is 14.0-14.3
- cleaned all grounds and checked voltage at each ground and found 14.0-14.3V
- Voltage while starting is 8.5-9.0V via Cobb
So, despite it being the same hot or cold and being an experienced rotary owner I automatically assume it is low compression,
even though I have never gone lean and the engine only has 10k on it.My good buddy comes over with his Mazda compression tester and laptop and we hook it up. We did two tests and then upload the data to his laptop which is running the Mazda compression software and the results are good, within spec. However, the cranking RPM was only 170RPM so the readings were at the bottom of the "within spec" scale. But either way it is good enough (for now).
The cranking speed did not change even with a booster on the battery or with another 100% charged battery hooked up with jumper cables.
So, my next test is at the starter itself. According to the FSM, the minimum voltage should be 11.0V and between 90-100A. Think it could be in the wiring harness?
03-27-2013, 04:05 AM
#3224
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Okay guys, rather than start a new thread I figure I will post here.
My car has hard starts. It starts everytime but long cranking times whether stone cold or hot as F#!k.
So, despite it being the same hot or cold and being an experienced rotary owner I automatically assume it is low compression, even though I have never gone lean and the engine only has 10k on it.
My good buddy comes over with his Mazda compression tester and laptop and we hook it up. We did two tests and then upload the data to his laptop which is running the Mazda compression software and the results are good, within spec. However, the cranking RPM was only 170RPM so the readings were at the bottom of the "within spec" scale. But either way it is good enough (for now).
The cranking speed did not change even with a booster on the battery or with another 100% charged battery hooked up with jumper cables.
So, my next test is at the starter itself. According to the FSM, the minimum voltage should be 11.0V and between 90-100A. Think it could be in the wiring harness?
My car has hard starts. It starts everytime but long cranking times whether stone cold or hot as F#!k.
- Battery is good and I also tested and tried another battery that is only a few months old. And both batteries are up rated over stock in terms of CA and CCA.
- I replaced my aging original starter with a new 2kw Denso unit
- BHR kit with year old or less wires and coils.
- New plugs (changed thinking they were fouled)
- Reverted my battery relocation back to front to rule that out but it had somewhat hard start before that anyway
- Voltage once the car is started is 14.0-14.3
- cleaned all grounds and checked voltage at each ground and found 14.0-14.3V
- Voltage while starting is 8.5-9.0V via Cobb
So, despite it being the same hot or cold and being an experienced rotary owner I automatically assume it is low compression,
even though I have never gone lean and the engine only has 10k on it.My good buddy comes over with his Mazda compression tester and laptop and we hook it up. We did two tests and then upload the data to his laptop which is running the Mazda compression software and the results are good, within spec. However, the cranking RPM was only 170RPM so the readings were at the bottom of the "within spec" scale. But either way it is good enough (for now).
The cranking speed did not change even with a booster on the battery or with another 100% charged battery hooked up with jumper cables.
So, my next test is at the starter itself. According to the FSM, the minimum voltage should be 11.0V and between 90-100A. Think it could be in the wiring harness?
what about ur alternator?
just had a somewhat similar issue but found out my BHR MSD coils went bad... had to replace them... but sadly it is not direct interchangeable with stock coil wires...
had a talk with ex Mazda Jap Techy... they say alternator more than 3 years old should be replaced... they also realised that the alternator provided for the 8 was abit too small for the 8..
