9krpmrx8's Boost Build Thread
#2527
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
The car is running great, I got my gauges sorted and the rear suspension raised up a bit. next is having a bung welded for my secondary wideband sensor and I need to get the PLX Boost and EGT module.
Can you guys help me find this from someplace other than rotaryshcack.com. I don't want to buy from them, I found a lot of bad guy threads on rx7club.com and one here.
#2528
there are plenty of inline oil filters for turbos but I have never seen one like that using a full size filter... would you consider this?...
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...4ANFilter.html
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...4ANFilter.html
#2529
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
there are plenty of inline oil filters for turbos but I have never seen one like that using a full size filter... would you consider this?...
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...4ANFilter.html
http://store.forcedperformance.net/P...4ANFilter.html
#2530
well that link uses a 10micron filter similar to what you find in a full size filter. in any case get what makes you comfortable protecting your investment. I used the one above on my big turbo srt-4 running 25psi, when I sold the turbo it was still like new.
#2535
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
It's only necessary if you have stuff in your oil system that can clog the orifice. That said it is ahead of an orifice so it would practically have to be blocked to cause any more restriction than the orifice itself. Like any safeguard, it is unnecessary until you actually need it so only you can decide the value of installing one. How many blown turbos are from a clogged oil system orifice?
#2537
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah, I should not have junk floating around in my considering how often I change it and I worry more about the filter getting clogged. I will just leave it as is I think.
#2538
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Okay guys, ever since I installed the new motor I have gotten the DTC P2004 (APV stuck open). So I pulled the APV motor, made sure the valves move smoothly, and made sure the gear is positioned at 1 o'clock and put the motor back on. APV code stayed so I read up a bit and found nothing so I just left it since the car is running great.
So, tonight I went to pull the cobb and ran a check and now I have codes P0076 (VDI solenoid valve control circuit low OFF 2 CCM) and P0661 (SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM). So I guess I need to do some researching.
So, tonight I went to pull the cobb and ran a check and now I have codes P0076 (VDI solenoid valve control circuit low OFF 2 CCM) and P0661 (SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM). So I guess I need to do some researching.
#2539
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
hey 9k... I was going to install an inline filter too ... was recommended by someone I respect ... but was eventually talked out of it due to the added complexity / potential point of failure.
#2541
Turbo Member
iTrader: (10)
Okay guys, ever since I installed the new motor I have gotten the DTC P2004 (APV stuck open). So I pulled the APV motor, made sure the valves move smoothly, and made sure the gear is positioned at 1 o'clock and put the motor back on. APV code stayed so I read up a bit and found nothing so I just left it since the car is running great.
So, tonight I went to pull the cobb and ran a check and now I have codes P0076 (VDI solenoid valve control circuit low OFF 2 CCM) and P0661 (SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM). So I guess I need to do some researching.
So, tonight I went to pull the cobb and ran a check and now I have codes P0076 (VDI solenoid valve control circuit low OFF 2 CCM) and P0661 (SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM). So I guess I need to do some researching.
#2543
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
Yeah I checked to make sure they were plugged in and I had ran all new vacuum lines to them so that looks good. I guess if the problem persists I will replace the solenoids. They do have 128,000 miles on them.
#2548
SARX Legend
Thread Starter
iTrader: (46)
So, I pulled my upper manifold and swapped out the solenoids with some from another UIM I had and the low voltage codes for the SSV and VDI went away but I am still getting the APV stuck open code. I can't figure that out because the motor cycles fine and I reset the gear to on o'clock. But the car is running awesome, I can't wait to finish tuning.
I am running hotter than I would prefer (204F at cruise and up to 215F if I am stuck in traffic) so I moved the coolant lines to the turbo off of the secondary rad circuit and on to the circuit all by itself that normally feeds the throttle body. That did help (not sure why) and the temps seems to be around 195-197F at cruise and 205-210F max in traffic. But that is still too high because in the same weather and driving conditions on Monday, Hoss-05 was seeing 188F at cruise and 200F max in traffic.
So, I think my secondary rad is too big and the way I have it and my secondary oil cooler mounted is restricting flow to the radiator. After seeing this cooler/fan kit in person since Hoss bought it for his build, I decided to pull the trigger on this
I will mount it in the passenger side front vent where the factory oil cooler used to reside and I will use it as a secondary rad and then remount my current secondary oil cooler to free up space in front of the radiator.
Lastly, I think (no, I know) the Mizu fans are not exactly up to the task of cooling a turbo rotary in high heat situations and from what I have read they flow about 400CF (800CFM total) less than the factory fans.
So I was thinking of slapping my factory shrouds/fans back on (free), or using the Mizu shrouds and install two 1100CFM 11" SPAL units in their place (as Sarras did in his thread), or replacing the whole kit and cabooble with this:
It flows 2500CFM, only draws 22Amps at that rate, and is 2" thinner in terms of depth and the other measurements are perfect to fit a RX-8 radiator.
So with the space freed up in front of the Mizu dual core rad, mazmart pump, mazmart thermostat, new more powerful fans (with bad *** Flex-a-lite controller), and a second radiator with a fan on it, I think coolant temps should not be an issue. Oh, and I plan on running the Spal unit houstonrx8er has on his drivers side oil cooler just in case oil temps spike up during a run.
Thoughts?
I am running hotter than I would prefer (204F at cruise and up to 215F if I am stuck in traffic) so I moved the coolant lines to the turbo off of the secondary rad circuit and on to the circuit all by itself that normally feeds the throttle body. That did help (not sure why) and the temps seems to be around 195-197F at cruise and 205-210F max in traffic. But that is still too high because in the same weather and driving conditions on Monday, Hoss-05 was seeing 188F at cruise and 200F max in traffic.
So, I think my secondary rad is too big and the way I have it and my secondary oil cooler mounted is restricting flow to the radiator. After seeing this cooler/fan kit in person since Hoss bought it for his build, I decided to pull the trigger on this
I will mount it in the passenger side front vent where the factory oil cooler used to reside and I will use it as a secondary rad and then remount my current secondary oil cooler to free up space in front of the radiator.
Lastly, I think (no, I know) the Mizu fans are not exactly up to the task of cooling a turbo rotary in high heat situations and from what I have read they flow about 400CF (800CFM total) less than the factory fans.
So I was thinking of slapping my factory shrouds/fans back on (free), or using the Mizu shrouds and install two 1100CFM 11" SPAL units in their place (as Sarras did in his thread), or replacing the whole kit and cabooble with this:
It flows 2500CFM, only draws 22Amps at that rate, and is 2" thinner in terms of depth and the other measurements are perfect to fit a RX-8 radiator.
So with the space freed up in front of the Mizu dual core rad, mazmart pump, mazmart thermostat, new more powerful fans (with bad *** Flex-a-lite controller), and a second radiator with a fan on it, I think coolant temps should not be an issue. Oh, and I plan on running the Spal unit houstonrx8er has on his drivers side oil cooler just in case oil temps spike up during a run.
Thoughts?
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 05-30-2012 at 05:24 PM.
#2549
what was I thinking
iTrader: (8)
looks like a good plan, might as well use the realestate for the 2nd oil cooler for a 2nd radiator
I like the flow on that fan/shroud kit....isnt that about 400+ cfm over the OE shroud?
if I were you on the oil cooler fan. move your oil temp to the pan and have your cooler fan switched on from the sandwhich plate like I did. other wise your oil cooler fan will just run all the time.......and mine runs a lot and I have the 195deg threshold vs the 185deg
I like the flow on that fan/shroud kit....isnt that about 400+ cfm over the OE shroud?
if I were you on the oil cooler fan. move your oil temp to the pan and have your cooler fan switched on from the sandwhich plate like I did. other wise your oil cooler fan will just run all the time.......and mine runs a lot and I have the 195deg threshold vs the 185deg