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20B must go on

Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #201  
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Originally Posted by stickmantijuana
i think what you were thinking as "oem canister" was this:
Yes in deed, that is staying... the rest of the pump assembly is gone...
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #202  
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or else you wont have space for nothing
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:17 AM
  #203  
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so is this it?
Attached Thumbnails 20B must go on-asdf.jpg  
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #204  
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Looks beter
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:21 AM
  #205  
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hey thanks joel! i'll do just that. so i will NOT modify the OEM filter can. i'll just drill the top of the piece and put a bulk head with 90deg elbow on it.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:31 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by stickmantijuana
hey thanks joel! i'll do just that. so i will NOT modify the OEM filter can. i'll just drill the top of the piece and put a bulk head with 90deg elbow on it.
sounds good to me
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 11:38 AM
  #207  
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how about two of these?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and for the fuel tank side, do you have two AN-8 aluminum tubings sticking into the space where oem pump was used to be?
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:01 PM
  #208  
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yep...
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:42 PM
  #209  
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Take the filter canister out...not needed...but you have to attach the return line ( the old pump output) to the venturi that the old OEM regulator discharged to before you gutted it

Make sense..all the inside crap is gone...and attach the return to the venturi
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:53 PM
  #210  
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what exactly is the venturi valve?

can you point it out from this photo?

all this is mechanical stuff right? none of it is operating with sensor or electrical signals?
Attached Thumbnails 20B must go on-picture-005.jpg  
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:55 PM
  #211  
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Do you have a picture of the canister cup without anything else? Post it and I'll show you...otherwise....it is the other end of the tube that the connector to the other side of the tank goes on.....there is a black tube that connects to the other side of the fuel tank to return fuel..I'll see if I can find a picture on my end as well....
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #212  
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posted photo above
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #213  
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eh will just stick with joel's method for now... it's proven to work and an extra filter can't hurt
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #214  
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OK...here's a picture courtesy of Swoope from an earlier thread



#1 is the where you hook to line from the passenger tank....there is a black rubber cap on top... yours wouldn't have the cap..it's only on new pumps ....the hose clicks on there ( snap on connector line the OEM fuel line but smaller

#2 is where your fuel return NEEDS to hook up too...

#3 is the venturi suction mechanism that pumps the fuel from the passenger side

You can use the filter or not...but if you don't hook it up this way it WON'T work..unless you put another way to pump the fuel from the passenger side

The fuel pickups need bulkhead fitting like you showed earlier...with lines that run so the screens are almost on the bottom of the cup when the tank is installed. Be careful they aren't too long...the assembly shortens when it goes in the tank

Yopu also want to make sure whatever you use inside the pump won't collapse when it is closed as well...the little corrugated hoses in the OEM assembly would work well on the return line
Attached Thumbnails 20B must go on-fuel-pump.jpg  
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #215  
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let me know when you are about to do it. Ill try to take more pics...
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by stickmantijuana
eh will just stick with joel's method for now... it's proven to work and an extra filter can't hurt
See above...... Proven to work For sure
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:17 PM
  #217  
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Thats exactly how mine is. I just took the oem pump out and put the pumps to suck fuel from that tank.. The rest of the conectiopns are exacty the same. Remember, even thought you take the pump mechanism out the ventury stays. It is not part of it. In oyher words the first picture u showed me saying that was what you thought the canister was, That has to go... The actual canister stays and the ventury mech stays with it..

Last edited by angeljoelv; Jan 4, 2009 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:21 PM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by dannobre
See above...... Proven to work For sure
HAHA so mine dont work?? is the same....
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #219  
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Like I said before stick, Ill take my actual assy out and take pics. Ill send them to you and dannobre ( to make sure it is the same) and youll go from there. We all want to have something that works and Im willing to change mine if theres something better out there..... But it works..
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 09:03 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by angeljoelv
HAHA so mine dont work?? is the same....
Just a poke....I was just saying that if it was different it wouldn't work...I was sure yours would be the same

The filter doesn't matte one way or another...r..I prefer an inline canister type anyway that can be changed..and that filters better than the stock filter
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #221  
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IM going to try just running my return to the venturi pump and having my pump outlet go straight to a bulkhead bypassing the oem filter. i take it this will work right?
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #222  
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Should work well....
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:27 PM
  #223  
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I am really late to this party, so throw out the suggestions if need be.

A lot of the AN- hardware you folks are looking for can be found online here:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/anfittings.html

Might help with some of the material transitions (flex - hard Al - bulkhead) I think I've seen. The entire catalog used to be thick enough to hurt your foot if you dropped it, I know this from the days when I played with experimentals.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 10:37 PM
  #224  
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yeah shoudl work well!!!
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 02:19 PM
  #225  
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Hey stick.. this is my neighbore from Ruff Racing. 10.6 all day long.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY85zjXdeYY

Last edited by angeljoelv; Jan 7, 2009 at 04:28 PM.
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