we have temps below 190F on 94F day with a/c on. mot of the time they are in the 160-170 range. spirited driving will get it up to 190 but she cools off quickly.
OD

 

Problem with the sending unit is it is actually 2 units...one in each side of the tank...the PCM does some sort of compare?? or it adds the resistances together?? to get the actual reading. I do know if they aren't both hooked up properly the stock gauge doesn't work

 

im not using the stock gauges im going with a autometer or a nordskog gauge. damn this sucks maybe we should get a fuel cell.

 

I have 2 walbro fuel pumps inside the tank of my 3 Rotor Rx-8 that feed fuel via a -8 line.I used the Rx-8 feed line as the return.Both pumps will fit in the tank and will go inside the sump.The only thing i do not like is the noise from them pumps.The gauge works fine.

 

Hey angeljoelv If you could please take some pics and send them to me(spyrstas@yahoo.com), I'm doing a 13bre swap and the fuel tank is the only thing that's worrying me. I plan on just using one pump and a radiator if needed. I'm worried about the venturi system and the fuel gauge(not pressure). Thanks!

 

I did something similar to RX8PR on here using an external Bosch 044. Only thing to be careful of is to route the return line into the stock FPR assembly (even if you have removed the FPR itself) so you power the venturi that pulls fuel from the other side of the fuel tank, otherwise you will run out of fuel at half tank as I used to.

 

wth.. BUMP! get a move on stick, ya lazy bastard! :P

 

lol yeah dont be stick in the mud

 

hahaha nice

i think his main concern is fuel atm

 

yeah mines not done on the account of the fuel system to. my soloution is about 450$....and im broke

 

Welcome to the "after swap" Broke Club....

 

Haaa ha ha, can I join although I'm not actually done yet! Make the club "Midway through the swap/ After swap Broke club!

 

my friend and i fortunately had one day to work on the car.

i have most of the parts ready. just need to hook them up and find some time to work on the car. hopefully while turkey's in the oven, my friends and i will have some time to start hooking things up on the thanksgiving day.

relocating abs was pain but my friend thought it'd be fun. well it turned out to be a huge PITA... eh well.. i guess taht's how things go if you were as drunk as we were. but at least now we have some room near firewall for dry sump system if we decide to do it later.

 

a second low pressure pump can be placed on the passenger side to supply the fuel can in addition to the venturi line.
But fuel cut is a very real left hand turn problem---if you plan on getting on track with the beast.
Surge tank may be in yalls future We track ho's are trying to figure this fuel prob out.
Damn Stick you have a lot of work to do.
OD

 

Sorry, was out of town for the past few weeks, as for what alloy that isnt that important, atleast 1/4" thickness would do if not 3/8th, its heavy but you can always have it waterjetted to shead wieght in the proper areas. I recommend you buy a band saw also, I got one for $70 3 years ago and its still kicking but your gona need many extra blades. It will help you out when you need to make risers to reach the motor mounts on the sub frame. Also a thought, if you raise the motor a few inches you can build a slick oil pan and not need to go dry sump.

 

always appreciate ur input moon.

worked on the fuel module yesterday. just have parts sitting here waiting to be welded at a local exhaust shop.

i decided to run hard AN-10 alum lines from back to front which comes in 30ft rolls (i'll wrap them with something for protection). not much space for the ss braided AN lines which i already bought. i'll probably end up using them for oil cooler lines.

i'll have some time off finally to work on this on thanksgivings weekend.

i also decided to stack those M&W's on top of each other. it should save tons of space.

as for fuel, i'm sticking with joel's instructions. thanks joel! if you have any pics of the modified fuel module itself (inside picture), it would help alot i think.

i also wanted to ask whether there are any good ways to eliminate aeration of fuel coming from fuel pumps? i was thinking of some overflow canister design (where fuel will empty on top of a canister and exit below right before the rails), but can't think of good ways to purge collected air from top of the pressurized canister.

also, on the FD oil fill port, there are two vacuum fittings. what are these for? i was just going to put breathers on them, but i was curious why two ports instead of just one.

also for the metering pump, there are four outlets from the pump i got. i'm connecting 3 of them to top of each housings. where do i connect the 4th one? also, it sticks out too much in the front, it hits the plate mazsport made to be bolted in the front of the engine. i was thinking of just cutting the part where 4 outlets are at and just making a 3-way split to clear the plate. unless anyone see a problem with that. it just looks like a 4 way split, nothing too special.

if anyone have pretty good deal on bunch of sensors i need for the 20b... maf, water temp, air temp, oil temp, etc... please let me know. i think rx8 uses maf/air temp combo sensor and i'm not sure whether that'd work with the 20b throttle body. i also need the rx8 reluctor ring and the reluctor ring sensor.

thanks all.

 

i have most of this for you

I think your best bet is run a catch tank on one of the oil fill nipples and cap the other one.

As for the OMP, i would get an FD style 2 way pump and just split one of the lines for the front rotor. Its smaller too and probably wont hit the front plate. I have one of these as well. And all the sensors.. lmk!

 

pm'd!

 

Good Luck Stick!

 

Any progress????

 

UIM/fuel rail parts are at a welding shop waiting to be welded. secondary fuel rail is mounted on top of the UIM.

i forwarded a photo to mysql. unfortunately i dont' ahve the photo with me because i'm at work right now. j, if u could post it up for me, i'd really appreciate it.

about 2 weeks ago, i ordered lot of parts that didn't work out quite right..., so i'm in the process of sending some of it back. :P

two bosch 044's are mounted next to the output shaft from tranny with rubber bushing.

i'm also having a local mechanic friend to run hard aluminum fuel lines to and from fuel tank because the ss braided AN-10 lines were way too thick.

i'm also trying to figure out what different holes are on 20b (i have 12A front housing cover), so that's been taking up most of my research time.

also doesn't help that my wing of the hospital just blocked off all 'forum' type of websites from their computers.

patrick, sorry for delay. pm'd.

kevin from rotaryresurrection has been very helpful on the phone. he's nearby at about 7hr drive, so i'll probably have him reassemble the block and stud/pin it before starting the engine. i also need to check whether scott installed the 20b counterweight on the engine. i've been advised from a member that it could've been left off seeing how things had been going for me.

also the driveshaft u-joints i received from scott previously are much thicker to fit the output shaft from FD MT. i'm pretty sure that i have the FD MT. are AutoTranny shafts thicker than the ManualTranny shafts? i was hoping scott just sent me the AT shafts/joints instead. rear ones are slightly bigger than it should be to fit rx8 differential input shaft (square'ish metal with 4 bolts)

must apologize for too many questions with every single posts heh...

 

here you go. click for full sized.

 

Hi Stick, You plan to run the car only in the drags strip or on the streets because the electric water dont work good on streets drive getting the engine hot is not enough sufficient water flow the 20B engine needs twice of water flow than V8 engine, you no needs to run dry sump the mazda oil pump work fine in most aplication even at 10500 rpm. Hope this info can help you.

Cheers

 

I like, well done.

 

I only for see 1 problem, is that fuel rail just hanging?? if so you might want to add another mount, might crack the runners to the injectors, proly were the seems are.