FateGR

That means that all those cables are from the "under dash/dashboard" harness (and not from the engine harness), but requires a lot of labor work to change this harness.

Is this correct?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Basically....I'm sure the dealer will have an idea on how long the repair should take

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

danno is correct. It's a huge job. Someone must really hate you....

FateGR

wow!

I never imagined the damage being so big!

Are we talking like a 1-day-job or could it take weeks etc?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I don't know about weeks. But certainly more than one day.

And this is with a knowledgeable dealer. With your ghetto insurance, I'm not sure what to expect. lol

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's at least several days of dedicated work. I'd personally just start repairing each break individually, but I'm comfortable with wiring work. Fortunately every wire in every bundle is color coded, so identifying the right connections wouldn't be difficult. The hardest part of it all would be just doing the small careful work in cramped spaces. I'd probably remove the driver's seat and most of the steering column to get better access to it. EVERY wire would have to be solidly and properly repaired though, you can't have any added resistance in the repair, and you can't have any risk of shorting between them you will never track down the resulting problem. You would have to be extremely careful, methodical, and deliberate about every fixed wire.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Yep. Agree 1000% with RIWWP. I'd take the check for ~$6000 from the insurance company and then spend two solid days removing that area of interior, extending, and soldering/heat shrinking each connection myself. Then again, I do this kind of stuff for a living. I wouldn't expect anyone without experience to even attempt it.

RIWWP is also dead-on correct that each and every connection needs to be 100%. You cannot even have added resistance in the connection. Extending the wires so you can actually make the connection is bad enough, but from my experience, shouldn't be an issue provided the connection itself is solid.

BradyMayhew

Does anyone have schematics for the 06 rx8 bose radio? I'm looking to do a bit of modifying and can't seem to find any wiring diagram for the radio other than for for installing a new HU, I'm looking specifically for the schematic or diagram if you will of the circuit board inside the radio. Thanks for any help! :D

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

That's something you're going to have an impossible time finding. No dealer troubleshoots down to the component level, so there's no need for that type of schematic outside of the Bose facility.

We do have a couple of folks who have soldered AUX cables directly onto the PCB of the head unit (audio pre-amp input section I would guess?). Should be able to find that with a little searching. May even be in the FAQ. If that helps at all...

BradyMayhew

Thanks man, I have looked through the DIY audio input blank cd hack but I was just looking for schematic to see if I could figure out a different way of running an aux cable without having to have the blank cd running all the time. There must be some other circuit you can splice into to allow for you to play through an aux cord? Or am I very wrong about that? Haha

Harsh

Hi there,
I have just bought a pair of side mirrors (FIT 2003-2005 MAZDA RX8 RX-8 K6 SIDE POWER MIRRORS WHITE LED SIGNAL+BLUE ARROW) to replace the original damaged ones.
Now this is where I am stuck...the original side mirror has 7 wires (3 black,1 blue,1 red,1 grey,1 brown) but the new mirror has 6 wires(1 red, 1 yellow, 1 green for mirror and 1 blue, 1 black and 1 White for the led signal light).
Can someone please give me the correct wiring instructions...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The OEM mirror has a motor to move the mirror and a heater circuit. It does not have a turn signal circuit.

TO wire it you are going to have to add the wires for the turn circuit from the main harness.

Does the new mirror have a heated mirror? Does it have a drive motor? That will determine what you need to hook up from the stock wires at the mirror

Harsh

Hi there,
Thanks for your info...
The new mirror (if you check reference on Amazon etc ), has a i)Drive motor ,ii)turn light signal, iii) park light .
Also it has 3 wires for mirror control (ie side wards and upwards/downwards), and another 3 wires for light (ie turn light and park light control).

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Look at the wiring diagram in this thread 😎

Look at the wiring diagram for the mirrors. ...

The drive motor wiring should be easy...the other wires you will have to run from the main harness. That will require you tapping into the correct wires on each side for the turn signal and the park light circuits

If you can't figure that out on you own you need to get someone who can do it..... In order to do it properly you need to take the doors apart...and feed wires through the door connectors or ideally pin them into the connectors.
This is easily a 3-4 hour job to do it properly...so don't expect it to be cheap if you pay someone to do it

cwglock

Does anyone know if the green and white wire coming from the starter relay to the PCM should be 12v or negative ground?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

If you measure the voltage, it's 12v.
The signal goes from the key switch, to the relay, and is grounded at the ECU, (the engine computer), after key validity checks.

Wiring diagram

So strangely, it's the ground, but it has 12v on it, and it goes to the computer - OK?

....and if you ground it out right there, the engine will crank without a 'valid' key.

cwglock

Thanks for the response, let me do some testing.

Prieto8@hotmail.colm

Hello Everyone!! I'm new here... Just wanted to take the time and post a Wiring Diagram/Spreadsheet did I came up with for an EasyGuard EC002. It has taken me over a year to figure this thing out and I'm not even done with it. I've googled and search and have not been able to find complete instructions, just bits and pieces. Advises and suggestions are warmly welcomed. Here is what I've come up with, thus far. If it states "Done" under notes, that means that I have confirmed that it works. If notes are blank, that means that I'm still messing with it and will update as soon as I can get it to work. Everything else is self explanatory. I'm having trouble figuring out how to correctly connect the 6 pin wiring (ignition) harness. Any information on that regards would be greatly appreciated!! Please let me know if you have any questions, comments, or suggestions...

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Nice work, thanks!

Prieto8@hotmail.colm

Hello Again Everyone!! Finally, after a year of research, reading, trial and error, and many blown fuses, I have figured out how to completely install an EasyGuard ECC002 alarm system in my RX8. I'm pretty sure that this application can also be helpful with other cars and/or alarm systems. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments. Also, please let me know if you want any pictures or video as this has been the most painful and hard thing I have ever done to a car. Attached is an Excel Spreadsheet with the complete Wiring Installation Diagram. Please feel free to share or update/edit as you see fit!! I hope that this helps someone else since I couldn't find anything this complete anywhere in the web...

Prieto8@hotmail.colm

Here is the complete 2007 RX8 EasyGuard ECC002 Wiring and Installation Diagram. Please let me know if you have any questions, comments, need pictures or video. I'm pretty sure that this guide can help with other vehicles and/or systems. I have consolidate everything that I've figured out myself along with everything that I found, on the web, into one spreadsheet. I hope that this helps...

N3m315

I've been beating my head against the wall trying to figure this one out.. But mine is an ES002, no PKE or RFIDtag.
I also am putting this into a 2006 with Smart Key (Advanced keyless).
My wiring is the same as yours but my purple wires are marked as for the Immobilizer system.
My hope is that I can keep my smart key, just get in the car and press the start button. The Smart Key will handle the immobilizer part as all you do is
turn the key nub on the steering column normally.
Did you have to deal with any wire that pertains to immobilzer at all?
Do you have AKE in you car also?

Thanks for any help you can give.