TsM

I'm not too sure how a cars electrical system works but I think that when the vehicle is on, things like headlights, sound system, lit dashboard, and everything else is ran directly off the battery, but the alternator keeps up with the demand. It keeps your battery nearly fully charged. Is that how it works or is everything ran off the alternator?

I ask because I'm about to buy either a redtop or yellowtop battery and I'm having trouble deciding between the two. The redtop has more CA, CCA, and RC but the yellow handles deep discharge better. Do you really need all those amps from the redtop though? What does the stock battery have? If the yellowtop has more CA, CCA, and RC than stock then that should be plenty. That way if I have a yellowtop and my alternator can't keep up with my future sound system or something then my battery won't be ruined by one discharge. What should I do?

Also, I heard if you exceed the cars recommended crank and cold crank amps by a large amount it could be bad for your car. Is this true?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I suggest doing a little real research... into everything.... before you purchase anything. But I'll still help answer your questions.

A car's alternator and battery work in tandem. Think of the battery being a reserve body of water and the alternator as a rushing river through it. The alternator outputting ~14V drives everything in your car (headlights, stereo, EVERYTHING) at ~14V. The rushing river has no problems supplying all the juice. However, when the current demand exceeds the current output capability of the alternator, the lake (battery) fills in the gaps with what reserve it has (~12V). Aftermarket audio equipment is usually the cause of this. This voltage drop is what causes headlights to dim during heavy bass. When the current demand stops, the rushing river (alternator) will refill the lake (battery) until it's fully charged. (Any "extra flow" from the river is subdued by the alt's voltage regulator)

As for the optimas. The red top is just a quality, leak proof battery. Nothing really special about it. But, as you mentioned, the yellow top is a deep-cycle battery. Meaning deep discharges (to near nil in fact) have little affect on it's recharging capabilities. Now, using what I've just told you above, you can see how the deep-cycle capability really does you no good as long as you're playing your audio equipment with the car running. If you think you're going to be playing it with the car off often, then sure, a little deep-cycle insurance might not be a bad idea. As far as the red top having more CCA's, yes, it sure does. Either will turn over the 8 fine and it's not going to make a difference in any audio system you're putting in the 8. No, putting in a battery with a significantly higher CCA rating is not going to harm anything. That rating simply tells you the amount of current it is capable of delivering (when cold). If the 8 doesn't need it, it doesn't draw it. Get it?

TsM

I do, thank you sir. I have done a lot of research on the subject actually, but these were kind of my last few questions before I decided on a battery and audio system. I doubt I would use my sound system while the car is off very often, that seems more for competitive purposes. I'll probably just roll with the redtop for the extra crank amps and longer warranty.

I do have another question if you don't mind, you seem to know what you're talking about. I bought this car used and the previous owner never cleaned off any of the battery acid buildup on the battery or the terminals. When I buy my redtop I also want to replace the terminals because of how corroded they are. I talked to a guy at Autozone and he said replacing the negative terminal would be easy but the positive terminal goes through a fuse box and he said I could only replace the ends. I'm talking about replacing the entire cables. So:

a) how would I change the positive terminal cable with that box in the way

b) does it matter which brand of terminal cables I buy, keeping in mind I want the best? Does a specific brand deliver a stronger signal or does thickness matter?

Thanks for your help man!

invasion08

iTrader: (7)

The positive terminal cable should be fine and you would just have to replace the Battery Cable End http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=338&page=1. I would first try cleaning the battery terminals and the cable ends with a cleaner and brass brish first. No reason to spend money on stuff that just needs to be cleaned up.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Changing the entire cable is unnecessary. I understand you want the best and don't want to take any chances, but you're not. In fact, you may create problems during disassembly/replacement (you leave a bolt a little loose, accidentally bump something, etc). The factory wire gauge is plenty sufficient and odds are the corrosion is only on the terminal or maybe 1/4" into the wire insulation (which you can just snip off). There's just no need for replacement. However, replacing the terminal is a good idea. But make sure you replace it with the same style. AutoZone/Pep Boys/etc tend to have lots of universal terminals. Don't just grab any and hack yours to hell (like I see all the time). I can't recall how the 8's is set up right off hand and it's dark and below freezing outside now (yes, even in north Florida).... so do your best and cover the new terminal in some corrosion inhibitor.

As for wire gauge, thicker wire can carry more current. However, if your electrical system isn't demanding high current, then there's no reason for thicker cable. All the factory wire sizes are plenty sufficient. When you add your audio system, you'll use a thick cable to run back to the amp(s). This is when many people then upgrade the ground wire off the battery to a thicker gauge. The ground should be the same size as the power.

When it comes time for you to select audio equipment, please run it past us first. I'd hate to see an 8 owner waste money on junk equipment or improper installation.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Good call invasion. That looks like the one.

TsM

Thanks a lot guys. Trust me, I'm extremely **** about my car and the last thing I want to do is buy some universal junk for my car that wont fit/work properly. That's why I ask a million questions before I buy a $10 part lol.

You guys answered those questions and now that opened up another, but hopefully this will be my last one. Then I get to do research on sound systems, which looks confusing as hell... And firebirdude, I don't blame you for not going outside and checking. I live in Oklahoma and it was 11 degrees the other day. I did NOT move here to deal with that temperature..

What I'm gonna do is what you guys recommended. I'll buy a redtop and replace both terminal ends instead of the entire cable for now. I wont get universal junk but the proper size, but what about the material? Don't the ends come in different types of metal like copper? I heard copper corrods easy but there are other options out there. What would be the best brand & material to go with for terminal ends, if again, I want the best.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Brand doesn't matter. Copper is used due to its superior current carrying capability. But it certainly does corrode and it's soft. A lot of companies move to either a mix of copper and aluminum or just solid aluminum. Although the current carrying capacity is a little inferior, they just make the product a little thicker. Far cheaper. Less corrosion. Honestly the battery terminal linked above is fine. The old terminals likely got corroded because the battery post was cracked. You shouldn't have the problem once replacing everything. But if you're still worried about it, smear a little corrosion inhibitor gel on there and call it a day.

I guess if you really want to go flashy or off the deep end, Stinger and Scosche make several higher-end terminals.
Positive
Negative

Again, I can't remember how the whole terminal situation is setup on the 8 (I know it's a little goofy), so make sure you check to see if these will work right. I think I recall there not being much slack in the factory wiring at all. I don't think you can get an extra 1/2" out of it, but check your 8. If they won't work, look through these for something that might. Keep in mind that you'll need to connect a, likely 4 gauge, power wire for your amps on the positive terminal too. Again, I really don't think it's necessary. I used a simple gold plated ring terminal on the end on my 4 gauge power wire and stacked it on the factory rings. Works great. Been pulling an easy 50-60amps through it for a couple years.

What were you looking into for audio equipment? Plan on replacing the factory headunit? What year is your 8? Bose system?

TsM

As usual, thanks for the advice. I have an 07 base model, so just a regular factory system. What I'm looking for is a very high quality audio system. My goal isn't to have a louder bass than joe shmoe down the street, but to take lossless audio files and just make them sound incredible. Based on what I know, speakers with a rediculous amount of power from an amp would be top priority. Also "true" tweeters aimed right at the ears.

Even though I'm not trying to have a crazy bass, I do want everything that goes with a great system including new headunit, component speakers(do you still need tweeters with these?), amp, subwoofer, monster cables. So my goal is more towards quality. I still want bass, just not have it drown out vocals or high/lows. I really don't know much about car audio though. What throws me off is all the technical specs like amps, watts, wiring harness, and basically having everything match. I want to understand it before I have someone install my system and get screwed over.

As far as brands, and focusing on speakers, I heard Alpine, Infinity, and Kicker were the top tier. Since I want to have all my audio products stay the same brand, whatever company has the best speakers is what I'm going with. I heard Bose uses paper filters in their speakers which, if true, kind of turns me off from them. What do you use man?

EDIT: Oh I just saw your sig, you use Pioneer and Kicker. Nice!

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Actually all the brands mentioned, including mine, are pretty mid-tier. My components are nice, but Adire Audio went out of business a couple years back.

If you're dead set on having all your equipment one brand, your options are limited (but I admire it regardless). Even companies that make subs, amps, and cabin speakers.... probably don't make headunits (Kicker and JL for example). So if the headunit has to match, I suggest Alpine.

INA-W900 in the dash
PXA-H100 sound processor
SPX-17PRO for the front
SPR-69C for the rear
SWR-1043D for the subwoofer
PDX-F4 cabin speaker amp
PDX-M6 sub amp

Metra 95-7510HG dash kit (contains everything to install the headunit)
this amp install kit
This extra set of RCA cables
And a bulk pack of sound deadening

The Metra kit is really our only option for dash kits. It works, however a few people have complained about the dash panel finish quality. They wet sand it and repaint it to fix. I'd ask your installer to do it for you. Yeah, it sucks you pay money for something that needs work, but we don't have much choice. Buy it and see what you think. Maybe you'll be fine with it. And I would have suggested the Type-X subwoofer as well, but it's too deep for any of the sub boxes the 8 can use. Also, they don't make a Type-X 6x9 for the rear.

If you decide the headunit doesn't need to match the rest of the car, it will more than double your options. Let me know.

TsM

Cool man, I'll let you know how everything goes. If you think of anything that can help me out, thrown it in here and I'll check this topic every now and then. I'd really appreciate it.

EDIT: Well what if I went with everything as one brand, minus the headunit? What would be my best speaker option at that point? Also, do you have a link or anything that explains wattage, and the technical stuff that I would need to know about before buying anything. Like when you buy an amp it'll tell you it's output rating but I have NO idea what that means.