Eradicator

I bought a couple cold-cathode lights (meant for a pc) that I'd like to use for floor lights. I'd like to find a 3-way switch to mount next to the DSC switch. I want one setting to be off, another to be on, and then the third to be tapped to the dome light signal (where it shuts off after so many seconds). I looked around under the dash, but I'm not sure how to pick the "right" wire to tap for these power signals. Can someone help me figure out where I can tap for the always on power and for the dome power? Also, any suggestions on where to find a nice 3-way switch? I've got a 2-way that would work, but I'd rather go all out while I'm doing this.

MikeA

do a search on this site, there are a bunch of people here that have done the floor light in their car. You should be able to find the info you are looking for!

Eradicator

So let's start with the dome signal. I imagine the best bet is to pull the wire for the door light out of the bundle that goes between the door and frame (since I need to keep this all under the dash), but how do I pick out the right wire?

fan

Bear in mind I have no idea of your experience, so this may be stating the obvious to you.

You need a multitester. These can actually be fairly expensive, so a good place to buy it is Harbor Freight. Its a cheapo "Made in China" tool store, but it should work fine for your needs.

There's one in Houston:

17490 HWY 290 832-467-9442

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta..._stores.taf#TX


This is what you need:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30756

Now what you have to do is get access to the wires (obviously) and then test each one. (The door locks would have constant power, the windows would have power only when the car is on)

Somewhere in the door frame there should be a switch designed for turning off the lights (the door would press it when closed)...

Once you find a wire with power in it, hit that switch, and check to see that the power goes off. Once you find a wire that has power with the door open (when the car is off!) and then loses power when you hit that switch, that's your wire.

Omicron

Or alternatively, the low-tech approach would be for you to pull the door panel off and look at the wires that run to the door light.

Eradicator

Thanks for the suggestions. Rx-Appreci-8 sent me some schematics and I've already got a multimeter, so now I'll start opening up those panels and see if I can get this done.

rotarygod

Do we still need to hook up that line level adapter?

Eradicator

huh?

rotarygod

Oops, sorry! Got you confused with eXentric. My bad!