lokaldisruption

So i already have an amp and subs connected to my precious car and i just took everything out of it. how do i install them on this rx-8 bose system? is there an easy connect on the back of the bose head unit or anything that i can just direct connect? or is there anything i needto do?? I am really confused as how to do this and i will be doing this myself because i got no more money lol. Iv searched around the forums and just found tons of postings with no useful information.
Can someone please post what exactly i need to do or just a "how to" on adding an amp and subs to my 2004 rx-8 bose. Pictures would be healpful as well.thankyou

lokaldisruption

how do i tap into them exactly? you mean splitting the right and left back speakers directly to my amp? and what exactly is a LOC?

Socket7

Tap them correctly by reading the stickies. tbh. If you don't know what a LOC is, perhaps you should take it to a shop and not risk damaging something? I know you have no money, but if you do this wrong you could have no amp, no head unit or no sub and that would suck.

lokaldisruption

well im just not used to all these terms you guys are using. im more of a person to do it yourself and get it done no matter how. i got my previous amp and subs connected fine in my other car but this one i wanted to no if there is a easier way of doin it besides splitting the back 2 speakers to the subs

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I'd like to know how you would avoid doing this on ANY car with the factory radio...

lokaldisruption

ya i really dont no any other way...but for whoever needs more info on what im doing...
1.connect amp to battery.
2. Connect ground to wherever closest
3. connect remote wire to fuse box/key start fuse or whatever
4. buy 2 wire splitters and take the right speaker in the back and split the wire to the amp and then connect to subs/same as to the left.
it worked fine with my previous car. just used the adjustments of the stock radio..i imagine there are better ways but this one was the cheapest at the time.

and i dont see where i would need a loc/what is point of it anyways/never used it before

and to gmcmillan how much of a difference when you say "tap in before the bose amp to get a clean signal"

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

The signal is simply not strong enough to tap before the Bose amp unless you're using a powered LOC such as the Cleansweep, 3sixty.1, or LC6i. This is from experience on a customer's car. I tapped before the amp on my car with the LC6i, so figured it would be fine for his as well. Wrong. Subs played.... but not loud. Switched it to the Bose amp output and BOOM, problem solved.

As for using high-level inputs on the amp, I believe there was a couple reported cases of headunit frying? I don't recall. But I would search before doing it.

EDIT: "Both HUs output differential speaker-level signals. Do not hook the HU signal directly to an amp's line-level RCA inputs. Instead, connect to a line output converter first or ensure that amp has speaker-level inputs. Otherwise, frying of HU may occur."

It's in our FAQ sticky with a link to proof I guess. Check it out.

lokaldisruption

so your saying use the bose amp for output? and do not tap into the wires with splitters or anything?
and where exactly is the bose amp located in the car?
sorry for all the que's and confusion. i just trying to get this done the cheapest possible lol.

bumblebeerx8

iTrader: (7)

you can also tap into the rear speaker wires before the speakers and us a high low converter with rca outputs

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

No. I'm saying tap AFTER the Bose amp for your LOC. In other words, on the Bose amp outputs. Same as BumbleBee just stated. Between Bose amp and rear speakers.

Although, I have no clue what type of EQing or crossing over the Bose amp sends to what speakers. I would have to assume a lot of the low frequencies are sent to the front door 9" speakers..... but I guess the back speakers bump a little too. (Been awhile since I've heard a stock RX8 system LOL)

lokaldisruption

alrite making more sense to me now. just a lil confused on the loc part everyone keeps tellin me about...why do i need that?
i dont need rca outputs. my amp doesnt require the rca outputs i ccan just use the extra speaker wire i have. am i missin something? or am i set

forbidden

Yes you are missing something. Choose to use that built in adaptor in your amp and you will get marginal performance at best. Use a quality loc or interface adaptor after the factory amp and have far better results. Use a proper interface adaptor like the Audio Control 6XS before the factory amp and get the best results.

bumblebeerx8

iTrader: (7)

um you kinda need rcas for a mono amp for the best results or you can run wire to a amp with hi imputs but i my experince i never cared for this and as long as you tap in after the bose amp you should not get interferance with gain controls set on amp and converter but still not as good as a deck with sub outs

lokaldisruption

ah ok that. do you have any other suggesteions other than the "Audio Control 6XS" that are good? but a lil cheaper....

forbidden

No, do it once, do it right and enjoy good sound.

Socket7

I use a JL cleansweep. It dealt with my noise problems better then the audiocontrol did, but has less in the way of gain controls, which can be annoying. Might be a bit cheaper then the audiocontrol, but not by a lot. I have to consider Audiocontrol's gear as higher quality then JL, but both work. A rockford Fosgate 3sixty.1 or .2 would also work, but I've never gotten to play with one; my co-worker who has one in his Cadillac refuses to let me fiddle with it.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I used the Audiocontrol LC6i. Got it refurbished off eBay for like 80 bucks. Looked and performed like new. Tapped before the Bose amp and worked beautifully for months. Zero issues with any noises of any kind. Output signal was very strong. Then I replaced the factory headunit with a Pioneer D3, so I had no need for it anymore. Think I sold it for 80 bucks. LOL

IMO, if you're just adding subs and have no plans to add another amp and replacing your door speakers, I'd use the cheap non-powered LOC and tap after the Bose amp. Seriously doubt you'll notice any difference at all between the two options with just the subs. If you ever plan on upgrading further, get the higher-end LOC now.

And if you think you'll ever replace the headunit altogether, go the cheapy route for now. Again, you won't notice any difference with just subs.

Socket7

Agreed. No point in a powered LOC for subs only. Use an unpowerd LOC, tap after the Bose amp, and enjoy not having to do nearly as much work to get balanced gain levels.

lokaldisruption

ok this all makes since to me now. but one problem. for sum reason wen connecting my 12v wire to my positive side of battery,. will not get any sparks out of wire = no power coming from wire out of battery? why is this? iv done this before so now im confused. is it because its a diff car, what am i doing wrong? i just want to connect the battery to the amp now. i got the in line converter and everything, just not drawing power from battery... please help

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

The only time you should get sparks is on your very last connection of the install. The moment you complete the circuit. I usually do the entire under-hood, but don't connect it to the battery. Finish everything inside the car, then moments before the key is turned for the first time, connect it to the battery. You'll get sparks, but very little. So please don't say you're looking for sparks to tell if you're getting power to the amp.

In-line fuse blown? Or you realize you need a ground as well? You need a multimeter. Start metering at the battery and work your way down the wire to the rear of the car, stopping to test at every connection. (in front of fuse holder, back of fuse holder, etc) It is also very common for inline fuses to appear fine visually, but actually meter >200 ohms. I believe the solder that connects the actual fuse to the metal end caps melts a little bit and creates and poor connection internally. The end caps cover the connection, so you can't really see it.... but the multimeter doesn't lie.

I have a couple at work I save to show customers.... I'm gonna break one open tomorrow and inspect it....

lokaldisruption

ok so ya i figured out the ground was in secure enough and i got the amp turned on...but then another problem...it wasnt supposed to be on because the remote wire is on the fuse of the radio which was not on...so then i reentered the remote wire assuming it wasnt in all the way and now i lost all connection to the amp...it wont turn on at all... i tested the power wire and ground wire and both have solid connections but wen inserted into the amp nothing... sparks before putting power into place but no light on amp even wen radio on nothing....any ideas on what is wrong now? youv been a great help so far...just me doing alotof dumbass mistakes on teh account of a long day at work and workin in the dark lol. but ya thankyou.

Socket7

Whenever you work on power connections, don't work with live wires. When I'm pulling power cables out of components, I pull the fuse under the hood before touching anything. When tapping lines that are part of the cars wiring harness, I disconnect the negative battery terminal entirely to make sure that no power is flowing through anything I'll be tapping, cutting, or possibly brushing up against a metal surface by accident. This is incredibly important to do if you don't like damaging your equipment.

I'm not sure what you mean by the remote being connected to the radio fuse. The remote wire should be connected to either one of the wires in the Bose harness (I don't recall which at the moment, its in the sticky) or to the positive line on your rear cigarette lighter.

Go back, disconnect the negative battery terminal, and check to make sure you have no blown fuses on your amp or anywhere else. Then verify all your connections are solid, yes I know you already have, do it again, it's easy to miss something. If your amp is not turning on at all now, Verify you have your remote line attached to a switched 12V source such as the ones I mentioned above. To test that the amp still works, you can connect the remote line to the 12V in on the amp, It should turn on then. If it doesn't something got fried.

Remember, never tap into a live wire, never unplug a live wire. Always disconnect the ground to your battery before making any changes, even if they're minor or it's "just for a second" or "shouldn't be live right now"

Do you have a multimeter you can use? If not, you should get one, they're a must for work like this.

lokaldisruption

thank you kindly=) it turns out it was a fuse that blew out. the fuse that i was using in the fuse box blew and was messing with the amp not giving it any power. your test with the remote wire made me realize that. very nifty test i must say~!

and i just put on the sticker from rx8strakes.com with the rx-8 logo on the 3rd brake light. looks slick.

but on to another question. i just got in the crossover thingy or wutever its called to install before routing the wires to the amp and it needs 12v power wire to it as well as a remote wire...hmmm what is teh easiest way to install this? can i split off the power wire in the amp in the same connection? or do i have to route another 12v wire to the battery...which i would rather not do=(
and same goes for the remote wire...can ijust connect at the connection to the amp and do the same? or must i route it to the fuse box as is my other remote wire. as of now my amp has power connections good, just need to add in this crossover for the subs to sound better.