I believe I did say DOUBLE.

In addition to the electronic component itself (and all it contains), the fuse also protects the wiring going to/from these components. So regardless if you think you know why there is an increase in current draw, you should never just up a fuse rating. I know it may only seem like an additional 5 amps, but 5 amps additional on a 24awg wire or on possibly faulty components is another story. You're asking for a fire. (Which is practically what he got)

First, his installation ran fine for months. So the odds of an increased current draw from all these add-on components he's done leading to a fuse popping now are slim. That would have happened long ago. Second, replace the fuse with a new one of the same rating. If it pops instantly, you have a short. Plain and simple.

 

ok
here another problem

the check engine light popped up.

im not to worried about it because it has happened to me before when i was installing the car alarm and it went away when i replaced the fuse.

so do you think the double din is fried?
because it was smoking when i powered it up, so i just immediately turned the ignition off.

 

man...theres definitely some issues, if it popped a 10 fuse, then theres some serious shorting issues. Literally strip apart that dash, and look at every wire you can find. Maybe take out the double din and fire it up off a seperate 12v source and try one thing at a time. Good luck, theres too many fires in cali already dont start another one!

 

ok heres another thing though, i was checking all the other fuses and it also poped the 15 fuse for the interior. [thats causing the check engine light from previous experiences]

i tried to pop in another 15 fuse but it popped instantly. what could possibly be connected to the interior that would be connected to the indash [somehow]?

 

You need to disconnect everything you've got installed. Metra kit or not. Inspect everything very closely. If you don't see anything, replace the fuses with everything disconnected. Fuses still blow? Then re-connect things one at a time until you find what is popping them. That should help you narrow your search down.

 

ok... i was reading other previous threads and i might be finding out what may be wrong.

from what this guy said "I think the power for that display comes from the audio unit, which is on a 15A room fuse in the fuse box on the inside of the car." -Mazurfer

that would make sense.

i am going to try to disconnect everything right now, but its kind of dark so im going to have someone help me when he gets here. just kind of worried, hopefully i did not damage anything i really needed.

 

ok, so i disconnected the main wiring harness and i replaced the 15A fuse and all is working now [thank god]
now i will be returning back to the stock radio. it seems like the unit is at fault because i see no melted wires.

anyways i plan on selling the axcess box, how much do those usually go for? cant sell the faceplate because i had to cut it.

 

You can't honestly be thinking of selling that to someone knowing full and well that it's likely faulty.... or atleast it had smoke coming out of it at one point...

 

im sure its not the axcess box because when it was working a fuse blew, and if it wasnt the wires, then it must have been the unit. also two weeks ago, i noticed that the aux input and camera died on me on the in dash, which would also back up the fact of the unit being faulty. [didnt think anything of it then]

 

 

huh?

 

what faceplate did you cut?...now im all confused. And if the display was cutting out, (which is controlled by the axcess box) then somewhere along the line the axcess box was probably shorting out. The double din connects straight to the factory harness through a supplied wiring harness, and the metra box controls only the ac/fan and the upper display. The axcess box doesnt connect to the fans, upper display, AND your double din stereo...

 

are you sure?
because the way the diagram shows the axcess box connects to the ac fan, upper display, temperature.

the double din is connected to the factor wiring harness.

and by faceplate i mean the ACUTAL faceplate supplied by metra because my double din was a couple CMs too wide, so i had to use a dremel to shave the edges a bit.