any one know what is the limit OR how many WATS is the OEM factory AMP can Handel ??

 

how many watts are the rear 6x9's getting?

 

how is that possible...if there were wired in parallel they would have to be the same inpedance...but you said there not?

 

okay, i just say that because i replaced my back speakers with a pair of infinity's and they sound good... i know they are getting more than 12 watts, they play way too nice to only be getting 12 watts.

 

you'd be suprised how far 12 watts will go on midranges, especially intinity's. they're known to be very efficient, but not very robust (at least the 4 kappa perfects i went through to learn that ).

 

is there any way to replace the front speakers without using a different amp....if i hook up a 4 ohm speaker i would be getting 8 times less the power?..is that right? what if i swap out just the tweeter?

 

Theoretically if you half the impedence the power draw should be double, so if you x2 the impedence it should be half the power draw. Also to help you understand the 12.75 watts to the speaker, in order to get 2x the perceived sound volume, you need 10x the power, example would be 100watts is 2x louder to the ear than 10watts. Hope that helps

Of course that is a really simplified explanation of things.

 

so if i'm running 4 ohm speakers in the back...it would only be getting 6.5 watts per speaker?

 

but then i would just waste the power...is that right?

 

The total system power for the Bose system is no more than 300 Watts INPUT.

This is dictated by the 20 Amp fuse that runs the entire Bose runs on. Since a lot of the system is class-D (i.e. the front 9 inch subs), you can assume a fairly good efficiency of the system.

If it is say 66% efficient, then the output power would be no more than 200 Watts total output.

Now that doesn't mean some channels can't run louder than others, that is merely the total output power. My guess is that the front subs (.5 ohms) are more like 60 Watts each, the front tweeters and center channel are seeing 12 Watts max (each about 4 ohms), and the rear speakers are seeing about 25 Watts each since they are 2 ohms.

Now each speaker can see peaks higher than those listed above, but for RMS ratings, anything total combined power above what I listed would eventually blow the system fuse for the Bose system.

-Mr. Wigggles

 

You are correct.

Adding a resistor in parrallel will send more power from the amp, but that additional power will go to the resistor not to the speaker.

The voltage accross the speaker will be the same (or in some cases less) and thus won't be any louder.

-Mr. Wigggles

 

300 Watts hmmm , ahhhh that crapy lil AMP !!!!!!

 

Bose don't really quote wattage on their products.They measure by loudness & clean sound.That's what the rep at good guys said when I ask him about power handling on these bose speakers.He said they don't really quote watts on their speakers unlike other speaker companys.

 

Well it might put out 300watts of peak or dynamic power but not 300rms.Almost impossible into that little piece of sh*t(and certainly not 300 watts of clean power)

 

I will repeat.

THE ENTIRE SYSTEM USES A 20 Amp fuse.

20 A X 14.4 V = 288 watts max.

There is no way around it. That is the max input power to the amp. No amplifier is 100% efficient. You need to take away about 1 amp for the processing electronics and then assume the rest of the system runs at about 70% efficiency. That works out to about 200 Watts output power.

Anyway you look at it it isn't a 300 Watt system. It is 200 Watts rms or less in all likelyhood.

-Mr. Wigggles

 

It does not have 200watts rms.Rms & peak music handling is totally different.You can have 1000watts peak & only have 300watts rms.Usually the rms is half of the peak output.But generic companies claims are almost always false.It's not CEA certified like the good companies which have all their claims certified.