Max WATS FOR BOSS OEM AMP ??
#2
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The front 3 Tweeters are 25 Watts RMS. The front 9" subs are 100 Watts RMS and the rears are 12.75 Watts RMS. If you want an estimated figure for max power, multiply it by the square root of 2. The Front three tweeters and the rears are on one amp. Each front sub has its own 100 Watt amp. The front left and right tweeters are 4 ohms, the center is 2 ohms. The subs are .5 ohm. The rear tweeters are4 ohms and the rear 6x9's are 2 ohm. There is a capacitor that acts as a high pass filter for the rears.
#7
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okay, i just say that because i replaced my back speakers with a pair of infinity's and they sound good... i know they are getting more than 12 watts, they play way too nice to only be getting 12 watts.
#8
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you'd be suprised how far 12 watts will go on midranges, especially intinity's. they're known to be very efficient, but not very robust (at least the 4 kappa perfects i went through to learn that ).
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is there any way to replace the front speakers without using a different amp....if i hook up a 4 ohm speaker i would be getting 8 times less the power?..is that right? what if i swap out just the tweeter?
#12
Theoretically if you half the impedence the power draw should be double, so if you x2 the impedence it should be half the power draw. Also to help you understand the 12.75 watts to the speaker, in order to get 2x the perceived sound volume, you need 10x the power, example would be 100watts is 2x louder to the ear than 10watts. Hope that helps
Of course that is a really simplified explanation of things.
Of course that is a really simplified explanation of things.
#17
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The total system power for the Bose system is no more than 300 Watts INPUT.
This is dictated by the 20 Amp fuse that runs the entire Bose runs on. Since a lot of the system is class-D (i.e. the front 9 inch subs), you can assume a fairly good efficiency of the system.
If it is say 66% efficient, then the output power would be no more than 200 Watts total output.
Now that doesn't mean some channels can't run louder than others, that is merely the total output power. My guess is that the front subs (.5 ohms) are more like 60 Watts each, the front tweeters and center channel are seeing 12 Watts max (each about 4 ohms), and the rear speakers are seeing about 25 Watts each since they are 2 ohms.
Now each speaker can see peaks higher than those listed above, but for RMS ratings, anything total combined power above what I listed would eventually blow the system fuse for the Bose system.
-Mr. Wigggles
This is dictated by the 20 Amp fuse that runs the entire Bose runs on. Since a lot of the system is class-D (i.e. the front 9 inch subs), you can assume a fairly good efficiency of the system.
If it is say 66% efficient, then the output power would be no more than 200 Watts total output.
Now that doesn't mean some channels can't run louder than others, that is merely the total output power. My guess is that the front subs (.5 ohms) are more like 60 Watts each, the front tweeters and center channel are seeing 12 Watts max (each about 4 ohms), and the rear speakers are seeing about 25 Watts each since they are 2 ohms.
Now each speaker can see peaks higher than those listed above, but for RMS ratings, anything total combined power above what I listed would eventually blow the system fuse for the Bose system.
-Mr. Wigggles
#18
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Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
but then i would just waste the power...is that right?
Adding a resistor in parrallel will send more power from the amp, but that additional power will go to the resistor not to the speaker.
The voltage accross the speaker will be the same (or in some cases less) and thus won't be any louder.
-Mr. Wigggles
#19
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
Now that doesn't mean some channels can't run louder than others, that is merely the total output power. My guess is that the front subs (.5 ohms) are more like 60 Watts each, the front tweeters and center channel are seeing 12 Watts max (each about 4 ohms), and the rear speakers are seeing about 25 Watts each since they are 2 ohms.
Now each speaker can see peaks higher than those listed above, but for RMS ratings, anything total combined power above what I listed would eventually blow the system fuse for the Bose system.
-Mr. Wigggles
Last edited by djseto; 02-11-2005 at 08:20 PM.
#21
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Originally Posted by djseto
My friend at Bose says that they ONLY quote power in RMS and not MAX. He assures me that the specs I listed above are infact RMS powers. He is a close friend, so I trust he is teling me the truth.
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Originally Posted by RX8 XTC
300 Watts hmmm , ahhhh that crapy lil AMP !!!!!!
#23
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I will repeat.
THE ENTIRE SYSTEM USES A 20 Amp fuse.
20 A X 14.4 V = 288 watts max.
There is no way around it. That is the max input power to the amp. No amplifier is 100% efficient. You need to take away about 1 amp for the processing electronics and then assume the rest of the system runs at about 70% efficiency. That works out to about 200 Watts output power.
Anyway you look at it it isn't a 300 Watt system. It is 200 Watts rms or less in all likelyhood.
-Mr. Wigggles
THE ENTIRE SYSTEM USES A 20 Amp fuse.
20 A X 14.4 V = 288 watts max.
There is no way around it. That is the max input power to the amp. No amplifier is 100% efficient. You need to take away about 1 amp for the processing electronics and then assume the rest of the system runs at about 70% efficiency. That works out to about 200 Watts output power.
Anyway you look at it it isn't a 300 Watt system. It is 200 Watts rms or less in all likelyhood.
-Mr. Wigggles
#24
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Well.. my friend who at bose says they only quote Watts RMS and according the spec sheet on our system, its spec'd out just as I quoted above...but I have my doubts to. As for the MrWiggles quote, he is correct, however that assumes the system is pulling 300 watts at once...which in reality will never happen. Like I said, this a good friend and frat brother who works at bose. He did extremely well when he was at Georgia Tech with me...so I trust what he tells me.
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Originally Posted by MrWigggles
I will repeat.
THE ENTIRE SYSTEM USES A 20 Amp fuse.
20 A X 14.4 V = 288 watts max.
There is no way around it. That is the max input power to the amp. No amplifier is 100% efficient. You need to take away about 1 amp for the processing electronics and then assume the rest of the system runs at about 70% efficiency. That works out to about 200 Watts output power.
Anyway you look at it it isn't a 300 Watt system. It is 200 Watts rms or less in all likelyhood.
-Mr. Wigggles
THE ENTIRE SYSTEM USES A 20 Amp fuse.
20 A X 14.4 V = 288 watts max.
There is no way around it. That is the max input power to the amp. No amplifier is 100% efficient. You need to take away about 1 amp for the processing electronics and then assume the rest of the system runs at about 70% efficiency. That works out to about 200 Watts output power.
Anyway you look at it it isn't a 300 Watt system. It is 200 Watts rms or less in all likelyhood.
-Mr. Wigggles