d05

Going to be installing two Alpine SWR-1042Ds with what will probably be a Hifonics TXi 1008D amp in the near future. As I understand it, since the RX8 HU is stupid, I have to use an LOC for this amp. Now, comments about getting an amp with speaker level inputs aside, can anyone tell me if there's any/much difference between a PAC SNI-15 and a PAC SNI-35, and which one would be optimal for this system? I'm actually a novice in the sound-scene, so any advice would be great. Thanks in advance.

forbidden

If you want optimal and not mediocre, drop the basic LOC idea and use a proper advanced interface like the Audio Control LC6i + bass remote. It will bring the system to life vs a standard LOC. You have nice equipment, give it the signal to do it justice.

d05

I've considered this, but it seems like a pretty costly solution to a relatively simple problem. I only have the subs currently -- I haven't purchased the amp. So, I suppose if enough audiophiles tell me that using a cheap LOC would degrade my sound quality that much, maybe I would be open to looking at a different amp with speaker level inputs and circumvent the need for an LOC all together. I think it would be a more affordable, simpler solution anyway. Thanks for the advice, please keep it coming.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

i'm using a 35 myself tapped into the rear deck speakers. not sure if there's any difference to the 15. i'll be upgrading with an aftermarket headunit once the metra kit is out though.

d05

Once again, that's a pretty costly alternative. The Metra kit is going to be $150+ if I'm not mistaken, and that's obviously not including an aftermarket HU. Maybe I'm asking for too much in finding a thrifty method of hooking these up without impeding the quality, but if there's a way to do it, I'm pretty determined to find it. I think that finding a simple, good, and inexpensive way to tap into the stock HU shouldn't be impossible to find. Then again, what do I know -- that's why I'm asking for help.

Do you notice any degradation in quality with the SNI-35 you're using? I've been told by other sources that any interference or static caused would be too high frequency to be picked up by the subs, anyway, and thus should be negligible. Anyone?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Used it. Loved it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/AudioControl-LC6...QQcmdZViewItem

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

d05:

I'm in the same boat you are: wanting subs on a budget while keeping the stock head unit. (for now)

I wanted an LOC that was powered and one step-up from a real cheap one. I went with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245

However, I haven't installed it yet so I can't tell you how it works. I've ready up a lot on what people on here use. And everyone loves their premium LOCs (clean sweeps and LC6s) but I'm not planning on a full audio overhaul where I need 6 channels and adjustable levels.

If I went that route, I'd just bull everything bose out of my car and rewire the whole thing to be "normal." with a regular aftermarket head unit and probably the new metra kit. But I'll wait for prices to drop a bit.

I guess I would start with a cheap one and work your way up until you get sound that you can live with.

Socket7

Go big or go home. No point in buying a cheap LOC, then getting a more expensive one down the road because a cheap one didn't have the features you want or sounded like crap.

Get an Audiocontrol DQL-8.

Or a JL cleansweep and an audiocontrol DQS

Or a Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2

Alpine makes a unit that has some impressive tuning options too. A more feature-full LOC Gives you roo m for upgrades down the road, and more control over the upgrades you do have. Did you know the bass control on your stock HU only controls around the 120Hz frequency range? IT does nothing to adjust the 20-70Hz sub-bass range that your sub's will be running at.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a perfect way to waste some money.

Do it right the first time, or don't do it at all.

Vyndictive

iTrader: (28)

All I'm saying is that IF the cheap LOC isn't good enough (for what he wants based on personal preference) than go with the more expensive one. Yeah, there is a chance you'll eat the cost of the cheap LOC when it doesn't give you the sound you want. So you eat 20 bucks and just go with a top end sound processor which is going to run around 100 bucks anyway.

But, for some, a cheaper LOC will give them the sound they want (not the best) and save them 90 bucks or so.

I do agree though, if you want to do it right the first time and guarantee the sound quality, go with a top end model.

If you're willing to experiment and trying to build a system on a budget, perhaps the cheaper one is worth a try. If your expectations aren't that high.

forbidden

^^^^ this nailed it. If your expectations aren't that high a loc will do. If you enjoy music and have spent some good $ on the equipment, nice to know that you will get marginal enjoyment out of your system using a LOC when what you could have was really not that much more. In this car it is a night and day difference, spend the $.

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

nothing wrong with getting the LOC if you want to keep the stock HU. thats what i did at first since the only thing available was the Kanatech kit and i didn't want to pay that kind of money for it. there is no noticeable lack in sound quality, its way better than just the OEM. now i want to step up when the Metra kit comes out so i can have better features in the HU.

Socket7

Outside the fact it's EQ is a joke, the stock HU is a quality unit. I'm keeping the factory HU and I get very good sound out of it. An EQ is a must with it though if you really want to tune your system.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

I don't recall this topic being about keeping or swapping the factory headunit. Nobody said he must spend a K on a D3 to get good sound.

Socket7

yeah. I think I read that wrong. I must be smoking something.

d05

I know for a fact I'm going to stick with the stock head unit, even when the metra kit is released or ever price drops. The simple facts are, I like the stock unit design, and I don't want to spend $300 for a new head unit and mounting kit.

I'm still uncertain with what I want to do as far as the system is concerned. I'm going to have at least 1000 watts available to the subs, but I'm pretty confident that much will drown out the factory speakers entirely. So aside from what I have right now, the only upgrade I'm considering in addition to the subs is an aftermarket speaker set.

As it stands, I'm still trying to decide if I want to wire at 1 ohm with the Hifonics amp and a LOC, or wire at a 4 ohm load with an Alpine MRP-M850 or M1000 -- either of which will have speaker level inputs and circumvent the need for a LOC.

Any suggestions there? The price should be close either way. I've been told wiring at 1 ohm is better for SPL, while 4 ohms is better for SQ, which is what I'm aiming for.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

You cannot use the high-level inputs on your aftermarket amp to connect into your Bose system.

The impedance presented to the amp has nothing to do with SQ. The reason many people choose to run a 4 ohm nominal load to a 1 or 2 ohm stable amp is to prevent clipping (construed as distortion).

If you're EVER planning on replacing the interior speakers (which you said you are) AND plan on keeping the factory headunit, you'll need them to be powered by an aftermarket amp. The front door location, where you'll no doubt be installing a 6.5" speaker, will not be powered properly by the factory Bose amp. In order to add the amp, you'll need one of the above mentioned higher-end LOC such as the 3sixty, LC6i, Cleansweep. So you mise well buy it now.

Do what you want. I'm not typing this for my health. Last I checked, we were all on this board to help.

forbidden

You can go the LOC route and end up buying and installing 3 of them (front rear sub) to do your system and get the moderate results that they deliver or you can buy one advanced integration unit that offers far superior results and will allow you to expand at a later date.

adviceinst

do5

The difference between the 2 pac interfaces you are asking about is the pac sni-15 is designed for hi level conversion of 10 to 30 watts, The pac sni-35 is the same thing but has input level adjustments on the ends.

Forbidden is correct in suggesting you go with a higher end piece like the Audio control.

Think of it this way with a pac loc it's like drinking water out of the tap of your house. Sure it taste O.K.

But if you get something like the Audio Control or JL audio clean sweep. It's like putting a filter on you tap water it taste a hell of a lot better.

You put in a better LOC type and your system will sound better and last longer. Distortion is what blows speakers.

adviceinst

Firebirddude is dead on about the 4ohm load and 1 ohm load. The other thing is when you run an amp at a 1ohm load the distortion is raised 10 fold. So yea it makes a 1000 watts, but it makes a lot of distortion and you risk clipping.

You would be better off with sub with a ported box coming through the arm rest in the back and a amp running at the nominal power than running a amp at max wattage and its lowest imp like 1ohm.

The reason for this is a ported box need less power to generate the same amount of bass as a sealed box. Plus if its ported into the cab of the car you do not lose any bass response in the trunk. Now sealed boxes with produce a cleaner tighter bass note. But a ported box and be tuned to the type of music you listen to the most.

Also you remember you only have a finite amount of amps coming from your alternator. So unless you want to burn that up. You might want to reconsider using a 1000 watts for subs.

Amplifiers are the most inefficient electronics on the face of the earth. To make a 1000w it takes about 100 amps. Thats why when you go to a car show the SPL cars always have oversize alternators and extra batteries.

Give you an example 140 db is consider as loud as a shot gun blast. In my last car I had 1 diamond audio d3 10" sub in a ported box with a 400 watt phoenix gold amp on it and could hit a 136 db.