ECU Relocation Kit
06-04-2010, 01:46 PM
#1
ECU Relocation Kit
Is there any interest in a ECU relocation kit to put the ECU in the dash or trunk?
I'm going to relocate mine in the dash, however, I could just as easily produce extra parts when I have mine made. This would involve an extension harness to the ECU harness so no cutting wires would be needed.
It would be a complete kit with all the hardware, extension harness, and instructions. You'd probably be looking at around $400 due to the cost of having the harness and mounting hardware produced to mount it in the dash, and maybe an extra $100~$150 for a trunk mount.
These are rough estimates on cost all depending on what I can get the harnesses made for. I'll have to do some measurements with a mock-up before I have exacts, but I thought I'd see if anyone else was interested.
I'm going to relocate mine in the dash, however, I could just as easily produce extra parts when I have mine made. This would involve an extension harness to the ECU harness so no cutting wires would be needed.
It would be a complete kit with all the hardware, extension harness, and instructions. You'd probably be looking at around $400 due to the cost of having the harness and mounting hardware produced to mount it in the dash, and maybe an extra $100~$150 for a trunk mount.
These are rough estimates on cost all depending on what I can get the harnesses made for. I'll have to do some measurements with a mock-up before I have exacts, but I thought I'd see if anyone else was interested.
06-04-2010, 01:59 PM
#3
06-07-2010, 06:06 PM
#7
Think you guys are greatly under-estimating how "quickly" electricity travels. LOL
For every inch of wire you add, you add resistance. So a signal that's only 200mV to begin with can be greatly adjusted with a couple extra, even tenths, of a ohm resistance.
Why would you want to do this anyway?
For every inch of wire you add, you add resistance. So a signal that's only 200mV to begin with can be greatly adjusted with a couple extra, even tenths, of a ohm resistance.
Why would you want to do this anyway?
06-07-2010, 08:37 PM
#9
Think you guys are greatly under-estimating how "quickly" electricity travels. LOL
For every inch of wire you add, you add resistance. So a signal that's only 200mV to begin with can be greatly adjusted with a couple extra, even tenths, of a ohm resistance.
Why would you want to do this anyway?
For every inch of wire you add, you add resistance. So a signal that's only 200mV to begin with can be greatly adjusted with a couple extra, even tenths, of a ohm resistance.
Why would you want to do this anyway?
As for why... cause it's in the way, and an eye sore under the hood.
Team,
I was thinking the same thing.
I'm going to just have to make a jumper wire and test extending the MAF wire I guess.
06-14-2010, 02:23 AM
#14
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also it makes more since for people needed that extra space for turbo setups and what not, to me when u add extra **** it just looks cluttered, and honestly when to take the ecu box apart it like a bunch of unwanted space
06-14-2010, 06:36 AM
#15
Momentum Keeps Me Going
One downside to moving into the dash/trunk is the size of the hole you'd need to get it througt the firewall/passenger compartment, that's a good chunk of wires, four bundles w/connectors isn't it? Also aside from the possible added resistance of the wire needed to relocate, even more of a problem might be the added capacitance/inductance that tends to delay and distort signals. There's likely compensation built into the circuitry now for what's there, but if the interconnect is changed... might be some work to determine what additional compensation circuitry would be needed.
Beyond that ... go for it, would be great if it worked
Beyond that ... go for it, would be great if it worked
06-14-2010, 06:46 AM
#16
One downside to moving into the dash/trunk is the size of the hole you'd need to get it througt the firewall/passenger compartment, that's a good chunk of wires, four bundles w/connectors isn't it? Also aside from the possible added resistance of the wire needed to relocate, even more of a problem might be the added capacitance/inductance that tends to delay and distort signals. There's likely compensation built into the circuitry now for what's there, but if the interconnect is changed... might be some work to determine what additional compensation circuitry would be needed.
Beyond that ... go for it, would be great if it worked
Beyond that ... go for it, would be great if it worked
Making a smaller box to free up some space in the engine bay could be another point worth discussing, the stock box is very deep and all the cooling ducts are not really needed!
06-14-2010, 07:02 AM
#17
Momentum Keeps Me Going
Oh yea, another thing, there's more than the ECU in that box...buried down in the bottom is the power steering control box. If you want to get rid of the box, you'll need to move or rebox this as well.
06-14-2010, 07:06 AM
#18
Yep, that's exactly why I think that a smaller box to keep the electronics "waterproof" may be a better solution than complete relocation. Tilting them of about 90° and locking them to the side of the chassis shouldn't be too much of an issue. Too bad that i'm not that skilled so i couldn't fab a box alone
06-15-2010, 05:42 PM
#19
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making the box smller would be nice too but i think one of the main issue of relocating it would be the harness go over to the engine from the yellow making it be in the way if some wanted to go turbo, but when going what smaller box it would just lower the harness even more i belive. It not the best piscture but an example
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