One of the reasons I've been looking primarily for the edge connectors, is that the female end of the connector is essentially that. If the female end were on the HU, this wouldn't even be an issue, because we'd probably end up using the edge of the module card to insert into it. using it as a card-edge connector.

It looks like you (all) are still finding some good matches, but still not something as close as what we've already found.

I'm still looking too, even after finding a very close match.. I'll have to ask the manufactuer if they know of equivalent parts by other manufacturers.. That might be the best avenue.

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

I'm thinking that a non-offset part might work, too. Imagine a 32-contact connector with 16 on each side. Now use them in pairs, skipping the first and last on one side. See this drawing for an idea what I'm talking about.

Sadly, 32-pin connectors seem just about as rare as 15-pin offset ones!

Stephen

 

OverLOAD-

I haven't had my dash apart yet to look at the HU or cassette deck, so I apologize if this has been covered... but are you saying for those of us with the cassette deck, does the tape module plug directly into the head unit (PCB to PCB) or is there any cabling in between... and if so can that cable be bastardized in any way for your module?

Thanks...

 

Hi all,

I consult with the guys at progressiveAV who own the website www.ihavetohave.it (a UK company!)who are the European distributors for a range of Hard Disk Head units and also cd changer-a-like external Hard Disk MP3 devices.

Specifically, the DMP3-A device can take whatever size hard drive you choose to put in it for whatever size music collection you own.

Within the next couple of months we are shipping a Video browser interface which may be connected to OEM and aftermarket screens.

Lastly, we have the Icelink interface for Ipod for a whole number of OEM and aftermarket applications that would normally work on a cd-changer bus.This interface gives you control over Ipod as well as an excellent soundstage and full charging capability via the supplied moulded mounting system.

Overload, it sounds as if you have got fairly in depth with control of the head unit and I am sure that we could do something to aid further development of your module.

My colleague Lee, is just trawling through the information in the previous 20 odd pages but I am sure that he will add his two penneth into the discussion!

Good work so far though!

Tom...

 

Bloody hell.... mother of all forum threads here! :D

Lee from progressiveAV here. This is a fantastic community development.

If overload etc would care to ping me we can engage in a conversation regarding support in:

- developing your external interface module. We could easily provide hardware/software reference models for interfacing with offboard mass storage-based mp3 players including iPod via our existing middleware set

- connector sourcing on the back of our own manufacturing operation

- plastics tooling if you want to productise this

please drop me an email at lee.harris@progressiveav.com if you're interested in furthering the scope of this project with the support of a company that has already solved the player-side integration problem as well as developing a pretty comprehensive range of vehicle-side interfaces. We actively support the concept of community-led and open source type projects. End users developing products to meet their desired requirements is the *best* development approach.

HTH.

Cheers

Lee.

 

Anyone got a picture of the back of the Head Unit?

Cheers,

Tom...

 

The back of the head unit can easily be seen in this thread , but the cassette module does not plug into the back. It actually slides up into the head unit from underneith.

Hope it helps.

 

It was more to do with if the TV tuner is controlled via the HU then potentially this could be the 'cd changer' (albeit not our normal control method)signals that we may be able to work with!

Cheers,

Tom...

 

I forgot to mention, on page 6 of that thread, CactusGeorge posted some great shots of the cassette connector on the head unit itself. (This is the male side of the connector we're looking for.)

 

we could possily also eliminate two pins on each end and use a 28 (or maybe 30) pin connector.. finding a pin pitch that's a nice multiple is just as difficult however..

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

Looks like we might be picking up some steam here. Hopfully we can get some momentum going and break through the ice that's kept this project frozen for too long..

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

mmm hopefully! This is the last piece i'm waiting for to complete my carputter! :o

 

Glad to hear it's getting going again. I started to lose hope and almost ordered a cassette module. Now I'll continue to hold out hope that this gets done.

Keep up the good work and I'm buying as soon as you let me!

 

omg!

check this out

http://www.meci.com/default.asp?mode...s&category=161


that site has realllllllllllllllllly good prices

 

OverLOAD,

Have you had a chance to talk to Lee yet. Does it seem like they'll be able to help with the connector at all?

My father-in-law is a mechinist. I e-mailed the specs that were posted earlier along with the pictures to him at his shop. He had all the computer guys look at it. They determined that they probably could reproduce the header, but they are too busy now and they especially couldn't machine something like that in low quantities. I at least had to try...

Gawd, I really need this thing...

 

OverLOAD,

How many pins do you need? Which ones? I assume you need L, R, GND, and a bus or two. If it's just five positions, and not the whole 15, then I vote for a solder solution. Think of a game machine mod chip - there are probably a few easy points inside the head where wires could be soldered by amateurs. We could even solder to the connector, but I'd rather avoid that.

OR my buddy who does electronics prototyping suggested a simple PCB solution: One single-sided PCB on each side of the connector with traces that match the ones on the connector held together with epoxy or something. He says he does this sort of thing all the time.

I'd worry about how stable that connector would be... Actually, this is my worry about ANY connector other than the intended one. How well will it handle bumps, hot/cold/humid conditions, etc... I think a solder-in solution would be much preferable in this environment unless the real actual connector (or a really close match) was available. And a solder kit wouldn't have the holdup and expense of a "correct" connector.

I looked at DigiKey and Mouser and couldn't spot anything appropriate. Even tried a Palm III connector, but the pitch is all wrong.

Stephen

 

At this point I'd probably opt for a 5 or 6 pin solder solution myself assuming there is a fairly decent pad to hit on the back side... I'd rather have a connector, but I'm rapidly running out of time.

 

Same here.

 

While I'll take soldering over no module at all, I see two downsides:

- Mass appeal....soldering will keep a lot of people from ordering. I have no problem with it, and I'm sure many others here don't either, but it's more than a lot of people can handle.

- Warranty...if the module's attached via a connector, I don't think that Mazda's likely to deny a warranty claim on the stereo -- or at the least, it's possible to remove it before you bring it in for service. If it's soldered in, you can't remove it, and it unquestionably voids your stereo warranty at least (since you've modified it beyond simply adding an accessory). I'd even wonder if they'd try to void the warranty on the entire electrical system or even the car. Granted, they shouldn't do that, but that doesn't mean they wouldn't.

-Brian

 

bkrodgers, yup. pretty much..

We'll we need at least 8 connector points to do what we would like to.. 6 for the minimalist option.. it's not really a good option for anything other than demoing the unit.

Exentric, Stay tuned, when I figure out some more info from Lee, I will share the important parts. Speculation at this point of what may happen doesn't do much good....

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

OverLOAD,

You mentioned in a previous post something about a 10,000 piece minimum order and a comment as to the price being several dollars each at that amount. Are those real numbers, or are you speculating since 10,000 pieces is pretty much out of the question? It seems expensive, considering the size of that order.

In googling around I found a brief article mentioning Tyco card edge connectors with staggered contacts, etc etc...sounded exactly like what you're looking for. However I can't find them anywhere on the Tyco site and their text search is broken. For what its worth...

jds

 

OK,

Some good news, I've managed to finally secure an agreement with the connector manufacturer. They will supply us with an initial order of 1000 connectors. The cost is part of a confidential agreement, but it isn't as bad as I had feared.

So, once the paperwork is taken care of, and the parts are delivered, we can start making modules. I'll keep the people who have send me their email address up to date with reference to this module.

If you want to be on the list that will inform people future information, please send me an email to OverLOAD@sylfex.com

Regards,

OverLOAD

 

WooHoo!!! Congrats OverLOAD. All your hard work is going to pay off after all. We all appreicate it! I sent you an email too. Can you give us any hints on how the deal is going to effect your inital guess at how much the module was going to cost?
Thanks again!

 

This is incredibly good news. Thanks OverLOAD for your persistence and thanks to everyone that tried to help out in sourcing this connector. Let's all keep our fingers crossed that this company deliveres as promised and that the connector works like we all hope it will.

 

I hope you have plenty of space for that mailbox because it will likely explode now with messages.

I made my contribution to that :D

GREAT NEWS.