PaQuiN

I have the BOSE HU and stock system and I'm adding an Alpine M450 amp (with 2 rockfod fosgate 10's in a zenclosure box). This amp has speaker level inputs. What I believe to be true is that I can tap into the BOSE amp before it enters the amp and hookup the Alpine without an LOC (due to the speaker level inputs)? I am also led to believe I can feed the remote wire to a loose pink wire on the BOSE amp? Thoughts on the best ground? Please confirm. I will be ready to do the install soon.

J. Paquin

Juansito

iTrader: (5)

I would like to know 2.

Anyone have a step by step with some pics or something?

SiLVeRE8

iTrader: (8)

ok if your amp has a built in speaker level inputs then you wouldnt need a loc. and yes you can tap the wires to the bose amp before it enters the amp. for the remote wire you can tap it into the rear cigarette lighter positive 12v. and for the ground just ground it in the trunk.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

If you read in the sticky thread, right in the first post, it hints at using high level amp inputs may cause your factory headunit to fry. I've never done it or seen it in person, so i can't comment. But there's a link to proof I'm guessing. Also, I highly doubt the signal before the Bose amp is going to be strong enough. You'll have the gain cranked with mediocre output from the subs. Tap after the Bose amp.

PaQuiN

I should be OK because I have an Amp that is able to accept high level output, or speaker level output. I will not be using the RCA hookup that you can also wire the amp with. I ran the power cable today. Followed the no drill install in the top sticky. Nice clean job, easy too. I ran the ground to the 12 Volt ACC. plug in the centre console, also an easy job. I will be taping into the lines BEFORE the BOSE amp. From what I have been reading on these posts it is the best way to get a clean signal.

Juice

iTrader: (1)

If you tap BEFORE the bose amp, then you will get a low level signal and it won't be enough to get the sub moving. You will just end up turning the gains up very high and getting shitty sound. Firebirdude already said this in his post.

Only way I would use speaker level inputs is AFTER the bose amp, since that signal is speaker level. When you think about the terminology you will understand. If you want to use speaker level inputs you have to get a speaker level signal. Where can you find a speaker level signal? At the speakers. Before the bose amp are pre-amp/low level signals. These low level signals from the headunit go into the amp, get amplified, and become speaker level signals.

You can tap before the amp but you will need a powered Line Output Converter, like an Audiocontrol LC6i, or JL Cleansweep.

OR, you can tap AFTER the bose amp, and use a regular LOC and use the amps RCA inputs.



But to the original question you really have 4 options, listed best to worse for your consideration below:

1. Best sound is to tap BEFORE the amp with a powered LOC/Signal Processor then use the RCA inputs on the aftermarket amp.

2. Next best sound comes with tapping AFTER the bose amp with a regular LOC and using the RCA inputs on the aftermarket amp

3. After that, tap AFTER the amp and use the speaker level inputs on the aftermarket amp

4. Then worst would be what you want to do, which is tap BEFORE the bose amp and use speaker level inputs.


Also, I really hope you meant that you went to the rear cig lighter for the remote turn on lead, NOT the ground.

PaQuiN

Yes...I did go to the rear cig lighter for the remote turn on, late night posting error. And I completely forgot that I was switching to speaker level inputs instead of line level inputs. I was orginally going to use an LC6i, which would explain my pre-amp idea. I do have a non-powered LOC however. I guess I should be using this and tapping after the bose amp instead of using the speaker level inputs. I'm going to use quick wiretaps for the install. That's why I love this forum, you guys rock. Many thinks, pics to follow.

PaQuiN

Here is the engine bay with the power wire. Yes...I know...I used 8 gauge. I have 4 gauge available, but my amp only required 8. I like how 8 is so easy to work with. Ran it no problem. And I won't be trying to blow anybody away, just lookin for a lil' base is all.

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PaQuiN

Here is the install with the engine cover on. Nice and clean. The power wire is the one covered with the black wire protector. PS, you guys like the K&N Filter? Makes the engine sound loud!

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PaQuiN

And into the engine bay through this grommet. Not going to lie, it was hard to get into here with my massive hands...I'm 6 foot 4 and I can palm a B Ball on a bounce.

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PaQuiN

Here's the view from the inside...

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PaQuiN

Through the kick panel. Oddly enough there were clips that accepted an 8 gauge wire and were not in use....bonus...

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PaQuiN

I didn't feel like pulling my back seats out again to take pics but its easy. Pull up on the front of the bottom of the back seat. Two clips should pop, then carefully navigate the metal tab at the back of the seat out from under the top part of the seat. Then remove the two bolts at the bottom of the top part of the seat. Pull upwards to clear the two clips at the top and your done. For the remote wire simply remove 4 screw located throughout the centre console under the felt inserts. Pop out the rear cig lighter and tap into the hot wire, which would be the GREEN wire. Run the remote back to the truck through the centre console and your done that part. Here's a pic of the remote and power wire wating for it's victim. I will connect the ground where the inflation kit is. I will have to relocate it to accomodate my ZEnclosure box.

The completed pics will be in Wednesday when I get the box.

THANK YOU Juice and Firebirdude for your valued input (As well as the top sticky and all the contributors...Socket 7 included, you seem to be very very knowledgeable on the subject and I have used your advice from other threads). You probably saved me from hooking it all up and being pissed off at the lack of punch.

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Socket7

Ahh memories.

For just a sub install, I'd tap AFTER the bose amp. It will make it much easier to keep your levels balanced properly. Getting a real quality output from the head unit itself takes a bit of doing, and you won't see that quality much with only a sub.

PaQuiN

OK! Installation finished. Used the speaker level inputs on the amp and tapped in to the BOSE amp on the way out. Everything works flawlessly and pounds. Pics to be posted shortly...

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Just out of curiosity.... did you attempt to tap in to the Bose amp on the way in?

(You like that wording, don't you.)

Socket7

The signal before the bose amp is NOT speaker level. It's a low level differential signal.

Unless you are replacing your cabin speakers as well, it is not the best idea to tap before the bose amp. Tap the rear speaker signals after the bose amp. By tapping after the bose amp you ensure that the signal your amp is receving is balanced to the signal thats going through your cabin speakers. If you are only adding a sub, the EQ curve that the Bose amplifier applies is actually beneficial. Take advantage of it. If you tap before the Bose head unit and use a cheap LOC, you'll find that your bass won't hit very hard, your gains will be maxed out, and the bass you do get will probably be distorted.

If you were to go whole hog like I did, and will be replacing the cabin speakers as well, I'd advise tapping before the Bose amp, so that you can get a flat signal that you can run through a configurable signal processor, rather then using your signal processor to cancel out the Bose EQ and apply your own. I'm currently, I use a powered LOC (JL cleansweep) as well as a Audiocontrol DQS Equalizer to step the pre-bose amp signal to something useful, and apply a good EQ curve to the whole system.

I've never seen anyone try tapping the pre-bose amp signals and passing them into the speaker level inputs of an amp. I would advise against it, I don't think it will work well.