Allright thank you, i tried to do that but didnt see any difference, maybe it was the wrong table.
Here is the other tables:

 

so the question now is should the 1-2gear table be the richest table?

 

Thank you for posting those maps, they differnt then the usd maps

to keep things happy I would leave it the richest map, but you can change it according to how you change the 3-4 map.

try editing the fuel/gear map 3-4 to get your results, copy that map to 5-6.
basically keep 3-4 and 5-6 the same

for fuel gear 1-2 change it the amount you changed the 3/4 gear, but don't copy the info.

so for instance if you are in 3/4 map and you want 12 and it took 3 "+" key strokes, then find that same cell in fuel gear 1-2 and do the same 3 key strokes, don't worry what the value changed too unless its obnoxious.

I am betting once you change the fuel gear 3/4 map you will get results

it really is a shame you don't have Fuel VE it should be another map with rpm and load with 1.00 .99 like numbers

 

also log your timing if you haven't

 

allright I will try to do that :P
I also log my timing, when going WOT 2nd gear my ignition lead is increasing got up to a maximum of 30. My ignition separation is also increasing with rpm but drops back and forth 10-15 sometimes, I dont know if this is normal

 

Is the VE table car model spesific, or does it have to do with me using EUDM version ATR software?

 

Unless you really know what you're doing the VE map should not be tampered with IMO

 

it looks like its a EUDM think, I have all the versions of the USD ATR, and they all have VE

 

allright I will stop tampering around to quickly now, I just figured out my MAF cal in the open loop area was not done correct.
I went back to the stock fuel tables and did some runs with my new maf cal and it allready looks cleaner, maybe too rich in the lower end.
I will try to get the AFR values closer to the targets in the fuel table now by further adjusting the maf cal.

Here is the results after the 2nd tune. (2nd gear WOT)

 

^^^^ Ummm wow... you'll need to smooth that out more.

Or

Try and find a flatter road it shouldn't spike like that

 

Yeah I know, but just ignore the horsepower graph its not accurate with these road conditions I have here, theres is no highways here at all, theres not even enough straight lengths of roads here to do a 3rd gear WOT to redline, its doable but not safe.

 

That makes tuning more of a challenge

 

If I change the APV open to 6000rpm, than i should have more control of the AFR since i can hit the actual cell in the fuel table? Or would that be a stupid thing to do?

 

It would be a good idea if you could get the APV spike to be at the same rpm in every gear................ or actually had fuel gearing maps that worked as labelled .

Alas neither of those options is viable .

 

No just tune your AFR richer at 6000 to account for the lean spike that happens.

 

also on VD on the upper right corner there is a smoothing drop down, it looks like you have it set at 1, the higher you go the more smooth it will be

 

My LTFT % at wot which i see in my logs currently at 1.4%, will this value be used to substract 1.4% fuel to all my targets in open loop?

 

That will ADD 1.4% fuel to all OL targets ....... unless the number is negative .

 

Yes thank you

 

IMO 1.4% +- is a pretty small figure to be trying to change.

If I was that close I would call it the day

 

Yeah I agree I was just curious if the value seen was actually used when the ecu calculates fuel. When reflashing the ecu the LTFT gets reset also, and its not always I get the exact build up of LTFT, to use in wot as before I flashed. This can skew the AFR curve a little bit.

 

Yes it can skew it a bit but after a few drive cycles it will settle out.

It gets the open loop ltft correction from the closed loop 21+ g/sec range then applies it to everything that is open loop. If you want to get rid of it then look at your logs and figure out where you go to open loop. Do this by looking at your stft and seeing when it goes to zero. Get the g/sec here. Use several logs to get a good idea. Mine was around 60 g/sec.

Then adjust your maf scale from 21g/sec to that g/sec. I would adjust it by about 1/2 pct at a time then reflash and see what your trims do.

 

Nice tips, it all make sence now

 

There is something I dont understand with the ignition timing, if a higher number is more timing advance, and should increase with rpm why is the table setup with a max peak at 44degress in the lower load/rpm area. And why is the max timing at high load/rpm 30 degrees max, because of increased temprature and to reduce chance of detonation?

 

Advance is lower at high rpm because of detonation. It's not "the chance" of detonation, it's keeping the detonation that is happening from becoming severe enough to rob power or cause preignition and destroy the engine.

Yes it's massively retarded, but without a third spark plug in each housing the only option is to retard timing.