Stage 1.1 with ZERO GAIN
Originally posted by shebam
SUCCESS. This is by far the best combination of smoothness and power -- I've now had the K flash with the first Stage 1 and the L/M flash with the "March" and "April" Stage 1 updates. No WOT yet (residential neighborhoods), but at aggressive part throttle tonight it felt wonderful.
SUCCESS. This is by far the best combination of smoothness and power -- I've now had the K flash with the first Stage 1 and the L/M flash with the "March" and "April" Stage 1 updates. No WOT yet (residential neighborhoods), but at aggressive part throttle tonight it felt wonderful.
Funny how much easier it is with a password and the right instructions. No more Ipod...
Tom
Installed my CZ 1.1 unit tonight. My car has not been flashed- manufacture date was dec 3 2003.
ANyway I thought I would try it out before I get the M flash this week (hopefully). I was sure to run it longer than 15 minutes.
funny thing was I couldnt get the DSC to reset by turning R&L. Once warmed up and restarted the car, DSC light went off.
It felt really bad below 6K , and only a litttle better beyond it.
just no low rpm power, and it felt like it was going to stall going into 1st from a standstill ( I needed to rev higher than usual).
Maybe just my imagination, but the car sounder different too.
ANyway, after about 30 mins of driving, I turned the CZ unit off, and took it for a 15 minute spin. The upper RPM was much better (back to normal) but lower rpm was not back to normal. (though didn't seem as bad as with CZ turned on)
Could I have installed something wrong? (only thing is plugging in wrong connector and i dont think that is possible).
I am reserving judgmenet of course for when I get my M flash- I think I'm going to remove the whole unit due to the "Internal Failure thread" someone experienced with M flash and CZ unit installed and turned off.
Tomorrow I'm going to remove it completely ( till I get the flash)
Any clues as to why I getting this strange performance?
ANyway I thought I would try it out before I get the M flash this week (hopefully). I was sure to run it longer than 15 minutes.
funny thing was I couldnt get the DSC to reset by turning R&L. Once warmed up and restarted the car, DSC light went off.
It felt really bad below 6K , and only a litttle better beyond it.
just no low rpm power, and it felt like it was going to stall going into 1st from a standstill ( I needed to rev higher than usual).
Maybe just my imagination, but the car sounder different too.
ANyway, after about 30 mins of driving, I turned the CZ unit off, and took it for a 15 minute spin. The upper RPM was much better (back to normal) but lower rpm was not back to normal. (though didn't seem as bad as with CZ turned on)
Could I have installed something wrong? (only thing is plugging in wrong connector and i dont think that is possible).
I am reserving judgmenet of course for when I get my M flash- I think I'm going to remove the whole unit due to the "Internal Failure thread" someone experienced with M flash and CZ unit installed and turned off.
Tomorrow I'm going to remove it completely ( till I get the flash)
Any clues as to why I getting this strange performance?
Last edited by emailists; Apr 20, 2004 at 04:13 AM.
Your unit was designed to go with the L/M flash, not the K flash that you still have. CZ has said that it will "work" with the K flash. But my understanding is that, since your CZ setup is not written for the K, it won't necessarily "fill in" the valleys and optimize the peaks -- it could do the opposite in some instances. It changes the data fed to the ECU; it can't sense or react to the flash that you have. Usual practice is just to switch it off until you get the flash, then switch it back on again. The flash is done via a connector inside the car; they don't open the ECU box. Good luck.
..it took off in 4th gear....
I've always had to shift to 4th gear near the end of the 1/4 mile.
I bet dropping it into 4th from 6th while driving on the highway should show a nice improvement.
I've always had to shift to 4th gear near the end of the 1/4 mile.
I bet dropping it into 4th from 6th while driving on the highway should show a nice improvement.
Dyno'd my car a few days ago.
5hp DROP with CZ1 active. It goes way lean at 5.5k.
I sent all the dyno data to CZ for him to analyze, I expect something simple is wrong. The ONLY way to know if your unit is working is to use a dyno of some sort. The exact HP number does not matter as much as the difference between Stock and CZ1.
I have a July 15 car, with no updates.
5hp DROP with CZ1 active. It goes way lean at 5.5k.
I sent all the dyno data to CZ for him to analyze, I expect something simple is wrong. The ONLY way to know if your unit is working is to use a dyno of some sort. The exact HP number does not matter as much as the difference between Stock and CZ1.
I have a July 15 car, with no updates.
Why did you bother to install the Stage 1 and do a dyno without having the flash updated? The new Stage 1 was written for the L/M flash -- the map likely isn't overly friendly to the original PCM software version.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by RXhusker
[B]Why did you bother to install the Stage 1 and do a dyno without having the flash updated? The new Stage 1 was written for the L/M flash -- the map likely isn't overly friendly to the original PCM software version. Muarice said you dont really have to have the flashes so did rx8 friend it should work with everything.
[B]Why did you bother to install the Stage 1 and do a dyno without having the flash updated? The new Stage 1 was written for the L/M flash -- the map likely isn't overly friendly to the original PCM software version. Muarice said you dont really have to have the flashes so did rx8 friend it should work with everything.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by smrx8
[B]
Meaning your engine should not explode or go into "safe" mode. But the CZ unit is not interactive; it cannot tell what flash you have. If alters the data fed to your PCM based on what it has been programmed to believe about your PCM flash. If your PCM is different from what the CZ unit has been programmed to believe, the result will not be optimal. That is why the CZ units now have a USB port, so their programming can be updated to keep up with the Mazda flashes without them being sent back to CZ each time. Just go in for an oil change; they should update your PCM flash to "M." (Make sure they do.)
[B]
Originally posted by RXhusker
Muarice said you dont really have to have the flashes so did rx8 friend it should work with everything.
Muarice said you dont really have to have the flashes so did rx8 friend it should work with everything.
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Appreciate the help and moral support.
