The following is my email to Canzoomer and the response from Michelle. My take away from this email. Coils are not in danger of being fried!!! And I can tune the CZ Stage 1.1 to perfection. It's a keeper for me.

Black is my questions and Blue is Michelle's response. Keep the info coming it will only benefit the community.


>.... I have two issues:
1. Rough idle - It idles below 1000 rpm, somewhere around 500 rpm. It pops and sounds like the engine is about to die.

Some Cars have experience this, the program cable and software will allow you to fine tune it which clears up the problems. Maurice can walk you though it once you have it.

2. From 2000 to 3500 rpm, there is no power increase. I step on the gas and I get nothing. After 3500rpm it starts to accelerate until I hit 5000 rpm where this thing takes off.

Yep, that is what it does. The unit is met to take effect after 4000 RPM. However, with a tuning kit you can lower the RPM all the way to zero if you want (which is what Maurice does, that way you will feel it at the lower RPMs)

Couple of questions:
1. What's causing the rough idle? Can I tune this out of the fuel map?

Yes. Fuel map can take care of it , there are a couple of possible problems that could be causing this. If you give us a call we can better explain.

2. What's causing the loss of power? There are a couple of map options which can be tried out. Can I tune this out of the fuel map?

Yes

3. Do you have the tuning cable and software kit (retail $130) in stock? I am contemplating of purchase this item.

The CZ-Prog 1 is 75USD. The CZ prog 2 is 130 USD. Only difference is PROG2 is serial interface and PROG1 is USB.

4. Can the CANSCAN interface with PocketPC 2003 Version 2?

Not yet, but we are working on it. WE do have a CANSCAN upgrade chip and software (45.00USD).

5. Is my coils in danger of being fried if I keep the CZ on?

NO, if you are part of group buy #2, then there is no risk as we have solved that little problem.

If it is I am contemplating replacing the stock ignition system with a aftermarket setup similar to what Jeff Abrams (aka MazdaManiac) describe on the RX8club.com forum.

I guess the question would be why. For regular street use, it won't make a difference on the car. It is something that you would feel at really high RPM (10,000 plus). With the changes we did to the CZ unit(a double diode system) you won't be having any problems with the coils burning.

 

When are they going to tell us how to upgrade the units??
Last update I did myself.................


What's up??

 

Too bad that double diode thing is NOT a solution, as I sent my unit back months ago fro the fix and PROMPTLY burned 2 more coils.

Can we PLEASE get SOME response on how to friggin fix this?

 

Guys,

Does anyone know what was the fix for these issues? I just installed a Canzoomer and it idles ruff and dips at about 4,000 RPM's and then take off 5,000 RPM's. I set all the MAP's to 0, configured the TPS settings, and I still have the issue.

 

i thought you installed a greddy unit from the turbo kit???


anyway, there was an early problem with the ignition circuit and i think the fix was clipping a capacitor on the board

 

I have two units. I'm testing which one is better.

I read that article about the capacitors, but my board seems to be different.

 

do you have any info on what vintage the cz unit is?

there were several designs as it evolved, from an early a/f board only to an ignition board that would blow your coils, to an ignition board that needed the capacitor fix, to an ignition board that was perfect. Then there are also units that had upgrades for "gold" firmware.

then on top of that you had owners rewiring the things by clipping capacitors, making the rpm range full scale instead of half scale, and making leaning out the map using negative numbers rather then positive numbers...

all very confusing

 

Here what I have....

 

That's the real old unit before the switch ...send it in for upgrade...it needs the new daughter board