Holy Crap I finaly got my CZ Stage 1.1!!!! Man it seemed like forever. I guess now the headache starts. Kinda discouraging to read that the customer service is lacking......

 

Just hope that your car is one of the OK out of the box cars........for those of us that don't fit that description, we get to have more fun :D

 

I hope my car is ok out of the box also... because I ordered my CANSCAN almost 2 weeks ago and it still hasnt arrived... doesnt that suck...

Slavearm

 

I have an basically new CZ unit that is not compatible with my car, I was going to return, in case anyone wants to buy it, PM me.

 

why not try to take it to a shop so they can tune it.

 

I just sent mine back to Canzoomer for the upgraded components. I already have the cable and software and did the fuel map upgrade for the M flash. Mines runs fine and I see no evidence of coils getting hot. My car is an early vin#, built in Aug 03. The difference is very noticable on my car and the mileage is slightly better if I keep my foot out of it.

I had thought about selling it but am not sure now as I kind of miss the extra kick it had. My main concern was future coil problems which is suppose to be fixed by the new components in the upgrade.

Anyways when it comes back I may put it up for sale, not sure yet, but I'll post it here if I do. Boat gas is getting expensive so I could use the $$$$

 

I finally installed mine today. (I clipped the 2 capacitors after reading the forums)

These are my observations after driving the car for 30 minutes. Mine has a very small amount of pinging between 2000 & 3000 rpm sometimes. As for power there is a definite increase at the higher rpms(5K and above). When I got the M flash my torque band used to go flat at 7000. Now it keeps pulling hard to the redline.

I am going to drive it for a couple of days & see if it gets better as the ECU recalibrates. If not I will turn it off and order the USB cable & CANSCAN analyzer.

 

Actually,

If you have the programming cable and are still pining in the low end, just change the ignition advance. The stock map should show +4, just move that back to +0 or try +2 maybe (although if I was pinging there, I would probably just go to +0 to avoid any pinging when the conditions change).

Slavearm

 

Should I turn the unit off in fear of damage the engine. It has a very slight ping at low rpm sometimes. It is so slight that if it was a piston engine I would not be that worried, but I think the apex seal of rotary's are very sensitive to any predetonation.

I am running premium mixed with maybe a gallon of plus from the previous tank before I install the canzoomer unit.

I may drive it tommorow carfully with it on or a may turn it off until I can get a cable & CANSCAN kit. It is more noticable (slight ping or rattle) when the car is cold, then reduces when the car warms up. It is more likely to occur during transients than steady pulling. No noticable difference in power at lower RPMS. Again the ping is very small, If I turn I the radio past 5 I can't hear it.

As I understand, if the car starts to knock it will cut power which will result in a sharp loss of power. This I have not seen. Any advice appreciated.

 

If you are pinging at all turn the unit off until you get some decent gas or a tuning cable. Ping Bad.

Slavearm

 

I don't get how this car can ping at low RPM and not high? If the car doesn't retard its timing in high RPM then it's probably not pinging. The anti-knock system suppose to be very effective.

But yeah, get good gas (93+ octane if possible)

 

The problem is, at low RPM the engine is in Closed Loop mode, which essentially means it constantly tunes for an AFR of arond 14.5. While this is great, you might be able to get a knock occasionally with crap gas and the CZ unit running a bit of timing advance. Crap gas sucks... if you plan on tuning your car keep away from crap gas. There really isnt much point to putting any system on your car if you plan on running crap gas.... you just wont be able to make much power without PINGPINGPINGing your way to nowhere.

Slavearm

 

Thanks slavearm and all the others who have given me advice.

I am try to understand how to tune RX-7. Luckly I have some background as Mech. Engr. & I took Internal combustion engines in school so I am aware of termonology just lack practical experience. Back then fuel & ignition were not computer controlled.

The gas should be Ok. It is BP premium (93 Octane) and I put about 13.5 gallons in. The previous tank was a plus grade (~89 Octane) so approx 16 - 13.5 = 2+ gallons were mixed in. The next day I put 4 more gallons of Chevron premium.

How do you know when to retard advance verses richen A/F mixture to get rid of preignition. (I am guessing you tune for stoich in closed loop & something less in open loop (13.5) then advance ignition until ping occurs you retard ignition slightly for safety.) Is this basically how you tune.

I think (have read on forum) that the car ramps up advance to a max advance at mid RPM. Therefore I think in my case I mainly need to delay this ramp up since I am getting very a slight rattle (almost imperceptable) during part throttle transients at low rpms (Accel 0 to 25 mph slowely and I hear a slight ping for a 1/2 sec or so).

(I have neither a cable or a CANSCAN so when I start tuning is up to how soon I can get these items.)

 

I keep wondering what people are hearing as ping?? My 8 makes a pinging/rattling noise between 3-4K. It seems to be one of the SDAIS valves opening and closing. It definately is not pinging. The CanScan shows no timing adj. I have tried to get the dealer to tell me what it is , but they don't seem to know. I wish that I could borrow the WDS for a day....so I could see which valves open when....or get a data dump to see what the protocol from the WDS is....so that the CanScan can read more of the extended codes

 

I turned the Canzoomer off and mine still has a slight ping-rattle sound. It is not very loud, to hear it you need to roll the windows up above 30 and turn the radio off. As I said it was very slight. It may not be preignition, It just sounds similar.

 

FYI - the switch on the old CZ boxes (large external switch on right side) only shuts of the MAF adjustment but ignition map is still active. The switch on the newer boxes (small internal switch on left side) shuts off the MAF and ignition maps.

 

I have the new unit. I ran it all day with CZ Box and still heard the ping-rattle. I may pull the box out this weekend and see what happens.