eManage/CanZoomer Tuning for dummies
It is off....the noise that you hear is probably the rattle/wheeze/noise :D that the SDIAS secondary makes when it opens/closes. Mostly 3-4K though on mine. It sounds like pinging in a piston engine.
Originally Posted by Rotary787
Does anyone know if the ignition advance circuit is disabled when the Canzoomer unit is turned off?
I think you I got mine when you got yours (group buy 2) so I will assume the on off switch works. I guess I should pull the unit out and see if the noise-ping persist. Then I need to load up Virtual PC for so I can use the CANSCAN and E-manage software.
From what I have heard the CANSCAN software doesn't have access to the knock sensor. Is this true.
Thanks
From what I have heard the CANSCAN software doesn't have access to the knock sensor. Is this true.
Thanks
Hey Jason, could you please explain half vs. full rpm as far as tuning is concerned? I have heard you mention that you changed to full rpm but I am not sure what your referring to.. I am thinking it has something to do with the tuning software but I am not sure...
Thankx for your comments man.. david....
Thankx for your comments man.. david....
davefzr, check out the bottom of http://tyrannical.org/page-15 It shows you how to move a wire on the board in order to make your CZ run at full rpm.
By default, it runs at half rpm, which means the 3000 mark on the map actually modifies 6000 rpm. The 3100 mark modifies the 6200 rpm. CZ interpolates between the two points to come up with the modification for rpm values between them.
It's not something that is needed, but it makes tuning easier since you don't have to keep doing math.
By default, it runs at half rpm, which means the 3000 mark on the map actually modifies 6000 rpm. The 3100 mark modifies the 6200 rpm. CZ interpolates between the two points to come up with the modification for rpm values between them.
It's not something that is needed, but it makes tuning easier since you don't have to keep doing math.
It doesn't matter. When I took the screenshot I was selecting 6, but only logging 5 items. I've since been checking off 5. It might make the canscan log faster with less items, but I'm not sure. I haven't notice any difference.
If the software was better written, it would know how many items were enabled in the pull downs.
If the software was better written, it would know how many items were enabled in the pull downs.
What I would really like to see on the CANScan is a trigger to stop logging.. Now that would be a cool option to have to go with the start logging trigger already implemented in the software.
1 more question....on the CZ.com price list, there is a CZ-Prog2 listed...it is the same cable, but it lists it as "Full programming/logging/tuning kit."
What is the difference here? Does it offer more variables to tune?
What is the difference here? Does it offer more variables to tune?
CZ-Prog1 is the same as CZ-Prog2, but CZ-Prog1 is Cheaper, and is usb. Prog2 is serial and costs more. Both will come with the greddy emanage software on a cdrom.
Almost no one buys the more expensive serial version, not unless you have a computer built in the early 90's that has no usb port.
Almost no one buys the more expensive serial version, not unless you have a computer built in the early 90's that has no usb port.
Hey Guys
Can you actually download info to the cz unit from your home computer(unit not in the car) ?
Let me explain. I have been running the cz unit(stock) since last march. No problems. Last month I sent it back for upgrades etc and had the stage 2 map placed on it by canzoomer. It's fine except some studder (when cold) between 3-4.5K under partial throttle. I live in the south and run 93 octane all the time. Have the M flash. I understand that backing out the small timing advances CZ put in the stage 2 map below 5K cures this problem. I don't have the funds right now to get a laptop,canscan, cable and software, but I would like to fix this problem. I KNOW every car is differant but am willing to try this. I can get the software and cable to hook the unit up to my home PC. Then later as money permits get the canscan etc to custom tune. Would this work?
Great to have this thread going.
olddragger
Can you actually download info to the cz unit from your home computer(unit not in the car) ?
Let me explain. I have been running the cz unit(stock) since last march. No problems. Last month I sent it back for upgrades etc and had the stage 2 map placed on it by canzoomer. It's fine except some studder (when cold) between 3-4.5K under partial throttle. I live in the south and run 93 octane all the time. Have the M flash. I understand that backing out the small timing advances CZ put in the stage 2 map below 5K cures this problem. I don't have the funds right now to get a laptop,canscan, cable and software, but I would like to fix this problem. I KNOW every car is differant but am willing to try this. I can get the software and cable to hook the unit up to my home PC. Then later as money permits get the canscan etc to custom tune. Would this work?
Great to have this thread going.
olddragger
olddragger, yes you can. since you're talking about removing some timing, you wouldn't need a canscan. Just the Prog1 kit (usb cable and software). You could use your desktop, but your CZ needs to be plugged in your car, so your computer would need to be next to the car.
With a usb extension cord, you could park your car outside your window ...
With a usb extension cord, you could park your car outside your window ...
Coming thru in waves...
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,488
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From: Somewhere between Yesterday and Tomorrow.
Yeah, Spazm, the online price list is very misleading. I told them they need to fix it, but,,,
Here's a quote from Michelle on a reply concerning this...
__________________________________________________ ____
K,
PROG1 (75USD) now includes the same software and features as PROG2 (130USD)
Only difference is PROG2 is serial interface and PROG1 is USB.
Your choice.
__________________________________________________ ____
Here's a quote from Michelle on a reply concerning this...
__________________________________________________ ____
K,
PROG1 (75USD) now includes the same software and features as PROG2 (130USD)
Only difference is PROG2 is serial interface and PROG1 is USB.
Your choice.
__________________________________________________ ____
Another question..
I finally got my CZ unit and am about ready to install it in my car and start the tuning process. My questions is this. Does it really matter if our CZ unit's are at Full or Half RPM? During the tuning process if we know that we need to make a change at 7000 rpm and our CZ unit is half rpm, that just means that we need to make the change at 3500 rpm instead of 7000 right?
I guess the only drawbacks would be that if someone developed a map in full rpm and your cz unit is in half rpm mode, you have to convert the values first before you use it. The only other drawback I can see is that during the tuning process you have to convert the values from full rpm to half before you make the change on the GReddy software.
Are these the only drawbacks?
I finally got my CZ unit and am about ready to install it in my car and start the tuning process. My questions is this. Does it really matter if our CZ unit's are at Full or Half RPM? During the tuning process if we know that we need to make a change at 7000 rpm and our CZ unit is half rpm, that just means that we need to make the change at 3500 rpm instead of 7000 right?
I guess the only drawbacks would be that if someone developed a map in full rpm and your cz unit is in half rpm mode, you have to convert the values first before you use it. The only other drawback I can see is that during the tuning process you have to convert the values from full rpm to half before you make the change on the GReddy software.
Are these the only drawbacks?
yes. it just makes it a hassle as you can't look at your canscan results and modify the rpm value you see, you have to div it by 2.
The rpm fix listed on my website is very easy to do, just don't hold the solder iron on the wires longer than you need to. I also prefer silver instead of resin, but I don't think the head in the ecu compartment wil get hot enough to matter.
The rpm fix listed on my website is very easy to do, just don't hold the solder iron on the wires longer than you need to. I also prefer silver instead of resin, but I don't think the head in the ecu compartment wil get hot enough to matter.
Is this the best thread to follow for install instructions?
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...l+instructions
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...l+instructions
If you read my CZ page ( http://tyrannical.org/page-15 ), it should walk you though what steps needs to be done. Including where to go for the install, I think the install page you listed is the same one that I linked to. It sounds more complicated than it really is. All you're doing is unscrewing a few screws and plugging the CZ into the car.
Augh man..I am in half mode 
The good news is that the 2 diodes are not there but I can clearly see the brown wire in the half rpm position.
I cant do this myself.. Uhh... Guess i'll have to find someone who is competent to change the position of this wire...

The good news is that the 2 diodes are not there but I can clearly see the brown wire in the half rpm position.
I cant do this myself.. Uhh... Guess i'll have to find someone who is competent to change the position of this wire...


