those are the original afr map and after canzoomer installation.


history :
this is a used canzoomer stage 3 : with hi flow cat ...

I'm always with the stock cat ; I change it next week with the hi flow cat.


I made some run before and after and log them with a gtech
I run faster in stock than canzomed ... ( a little)

I've several question :
- I do the run in second gear (any difference with the third gear) ???
- I put 0,1 for the canscan and I have log every 0,2s why ???
- the car same to hesitate now between 1000-5000 rpm why ?? I was thinking the canzoomer only operate after 5500 rpm (open loop)

- what do you think about the modified map
thanks

 

your running waaaayyy too lean... adjust immediately

 

Yes, do NOT go WOT throttle until you richen up the mix. You should be in the 13.2 - 13.7 range.

 

You should always start from scratch. Never use someone else's fuel/timing map. (Nice spreadsheet )

 

ye nemesis

thanks again for your advice


what do you think with the canscan whot take only every 0,2 s
and I put 0,1 (default) but it's not working ?

 

I'm not understanding your question

 

oups sorry for my english

so when I'm doing logs with the canscan I have data logged every 0,2s so I didn't have a lots of data between 5500 to 9000 rpm (twice less than you)
I didn't understant with the canscan take data every 0,2s cause I have 0,1s selected for the interleave ...?


do you see why I've got this problem


other question :
There is a difference doing the test in second gear or third gear to take the AFR ??

thanks

 

as for your hesitation - check the ignition timing tables for that area, chances are it will not be zero if you have this problem

 

Do you know if your CZ unit is setup for Half RPM or Full RPM? The original units were Half, and there is a fix to change them to Full. I sold my old canscan, and I am getting a new USB version, so I need to study your question later this week.

 

Hi

I've got a full rpm canzoomer (it's a 1.1 version)


why I have hesitation before 5500 rpm ???
if when you change the first row to zero in canzoomer ignition table you affect the engine before 5500 rpm this mean canzoomer can modifie engine setting in close loop (before 5500 rpm) ???

need a teacher lol ??

 

Yes, the CZ can modify ignition in closed and open loop. I personally do not like to have any ignition added at lower rpms as it can cause hesitation/roughness, however some people have added some with the assumption you can get a tad better fuel mileage.

my suggestion would be to make the first column of ignition values 0 (or at least from the bottom of that column half way up)

 

for what its worth, i'd say an excellant place to start for tuning your a/f ratio would be to take all the cells above 6300 and devide by 2

 

I

I can not connect the canzoomer to my laptop :

I use a white cable written car-hacker on it + a long usb cable.

When I connect the usb on my laptop ; the usb device stay unrecognized

so unable to use the greddy e-manage.

where can I get the right driver

or perhaps can you post the driver ???

need help

thanks

 

the driver for the cable should be on the CZ disc

 

I think i've got an old version of the disc (and it's a copy)


there is a "position for the cable" :

the active usb (with the small chip inside" plug in the canzoomer and the normal usb on the other side


or you can plug the cable as you want ???


thanks

 

i can't find my cd anymore unfortunetly... there is definately a folder with the driver on the cd

the carhacker.com side goes into the CZ and regular side into your computer

 

PM me with an e-mail and I'll send it to you

 

Hi guy

I'm happy

now it's working perfectly

I reverse this fu... king usb cable ... and it works.

for my car hesitation I do Throttle calibration and put 0 in the first row of ignition map

I use now the stage 2 map.

some questions :

I understand I should use the canscan to take the afr with 100% Throttle position
after I will tune the map on the last line (100 % trootle)
How do you know the good number for medium Throttle (70 - 80 - 90 %) ???


how do you tune the ignition map ???
everybody sames to try to reach the 30 degre advance value ???

 

For medium throttle you can figure you want to be making no adjustments at ~50% throttle, so you can just interpolate from you number at 100% and step down to 0 by 50% or 60%.... this will give you a nice smooth power delivery and coincidently the afr's look very acceptable by doing this (in my experience).

the ignition map is more of a seat of the pants thing for tuning if you don't have some way of estimating the horsepower your making (dyno, g-tec, ect..). I personally think 34-36 degrees overall advance works best, others think 30 is good.... then again my car does not retard timing like some other people's cars i've seen data from.

 

hyou can see the afr with the standard stage 2 map


I think maps are really difference US map versus European map
we run leaner

 

I do some tune

As you can see it's better with less "less fuel injection"

I tune it again but I think I should do the same for the ignition : less advance

In my mind :
If the car run leaner (less fuel injection) you should not increase the adavance but lower it


see my new map :
I do the afr run tomorow ...

 

You are running lean and the car is pulling timing still. You need a flat AFR line around .92 Lambda and a flat timing line above 6200 RPM of 30 degrees. You can play with higher heat later, but you need to be careful. You need a data log dude

 

..........................you won't get a flat timing map...cause when you adjust the airflow down the timing will decrease. You can add back to get 30 deg...but it won't show up on the Can bus derived graphs. Add a bit of fuel from 7200 to 8000 and see what happens

 

unless you are tuning my car for some reason -dunno-