Good job figuring all the wires out, but I am completely stunned that you used vampire taps on a remote start. They are not reliable! I have a friend who does this kind of audio/security/etc work for a living and they always solder. You just have to be really good at stripping wires in tight spaces.

 

i am a professional installer and i use the 3m scotchlok t-tap connectors. very similar, and no issues. you just have to use the right size connector for the wire you are tapping.

 

Hey lurch,
Have you had any problems with ure remote start?
because i installed one on my car and it seems to work fine on certain days; but on rare occasions it doesn;t unlock before it start and the alarm goes off. What do u think the problem is?

 

Does anybody know if this would work the same way with a Mazda 6? I really want remote start to cool down the car in this Texas heat, but I don't want it bad enough to have to carry around a second remote.

 

Finally got it to work.....couldnt find the "lock motor"wire so i went with the red/black "unlock motor" wire......also had trouble finding a mounting spot for valet....right now its sticking out 2 in.....where did you guys mount it.......any pics?

 

I am blowing fuses right when the starter is about to engage. Need help guys... Installed keyless and security as well and all are working fine, except for the remote start portion. any ideas??

 

sorry to revive dead thread, I bought the viper with smart start cell phone adapter. My problem is the thing refuses to work. The cell phone receiver is receiving the command, but the actual remote start wont crank the vehicle. I stripped and soldered each connection. The only places i differed is I did not install the neutral safety switch or hood switch. Instead I put in a kill switch on the ground to turn off the system when i work on the car. Any way to figure this out? My multimeter shows that my switch is working, the light will flash when i use the programming button. Ideas?

 

Fixed, the brake input, hood switch input, and tach input can all be left unhooked up, but the neutral safety switch MUST HAVE GROUND! If your like me and leave your car in neutral 100% of the time and already have a gear lockout just attach the neutral safety switch to the ground wire.

PS the door lock wire is red/BLUE, not red/GREEN.

 

WingleBeast, is the cell phone adapter something that can be added to the 561t, or is it a completely different remote start unit? I followed this DIY and got the 561t working, but the range of my key isn't great and I'd love to use my phone to start it. Could ya point me towards what you installed?

 

If it has a 4-pin data port then yes it will work. Like a charm I might add.

 

One more question for ya Wingle...

Did you install the viper module yourself, or did you get an authorized dealer to do it? I just spoke with two dealers in my area, and they quoted me $60 for the install, which is ridiculous for 5 minutes worth of work. I was hoping to install myself and then take it to get activated. How did you deal with this issue?

 

the viper cell phone unit literally has just one 4 wire connector that goes to the main start unit. the only problem is if that port is already occupied you would have to hard wire the setup.

If you did it exactly like this write up the 4 pin D2D port should be open. just plug the smart start right into that.

 

Sorry, I should have clarified. I know how to install it. It's really simple, like you said. The issue is getting it activated by an authorized Directed Electronics dealer. The dealers I contacted in my area will not activate it unless they install it themselves, and for that they want $60+. I don't want to pay that, I want to install it myself and have someone activate it. Who activated your unit?

Also, on reading your last post, now I do have one question about installation. You said we're using the D2D port? According to my installation instructions, D2D requires grounding the gray wire on the Smart Start Module. Is that what you did?