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DIY: Ultimate DIY for Greddy turbo / BHR coils / AEM intake mod / Boost Control

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Old 04-29-2010, 10:43 AM
  #51  
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amazing thread bro. thank you. +3 for sticky.
Old 04-29-2010, 12:10 PM
  #52  
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Thanks everyone!
Old 04-29-2010, 02:10 PM
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I support sticky status for this.

I don't know if I somehow missed it or not, but where do you get the oil lines for the turbo?
Old 04-30-2010, 02:07 AM
  #54  
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bose,

The oil line comes with the greddy kit along with all the needed fittings.

I did take pics of my way on how I hooked it up on top vs the directions saying to go underneath the car to get to the oil presure sensor.
Old 04-30-2010, 01:31 PM
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Thanks for those Part #'s!

Just ordered my oil fittings. If the stars are aligning correctly then boost looks about two weeks out
Old 05-01-2010, 03:14 AM
  #56  
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Frosty288, no problem.

Don't forget to use a brass crush washer with the fitting that bolts to the pan and don't forget to drill it out. Be very carefull not to drill out too much because it will weaken the wall. You will understand when you see it. You will want to drill enough to remove the transition inside the fitting where it goes from 14mm to 8an to get rid of that step the oil will hit as it returns to the pan.
Old 05-01-2010, 09:42 AM
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Subscribed... Great thread... Great timing
Old 05-01-2010, 12:46 PM
  #58  
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Nice thread
Old 05-02-2010, 10:01 AM
  #59  
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Thanks shelldude.

Bse50, whats up homie.

Well I had alot of fun doing this. I really hope to do it again sometime soon.

I also really need to finish my personal stuff witch I will update in my Benjamz thread....lol
Old 05-30-2010, 01:17 AM
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Benjamz <----- this guy really worked his butt off.
Old 05-31-2010, 03:28 AM
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so ......................... what happened ?
Old 05-31-2010, 09:33 AM
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Nicely done.
Support Sticky
Old 05-31-2010, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
so ......................... what happened ?
kit is for sale

https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/fs-greddy-turbo-kit-bnr-turbo-upgrade-198331/
Old 05-31-2010, 03:29 PM
  #64  
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/\ yes - it was on for one week then taken off again . What happened ?
Old 06-01-2010, 03:36 AM
  #65  
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One of the crush washers did not seal right on the turbo so it was leaking coolant from the cap that bolts on the opposite side of the coolant feed nipple. Because of this it was leaking coolant. The turbo was sent back to BNR and was inspected and a new crush washer was installed. Yes, I could have easily done this myself instead of sending it back. But as vendor myself I appreciate it when someone tells me that one of my products had a small thing a ma jig so that I will make sure it does not happen again. The kit is fine and complete. I took everything back off. In the pics on the AEM intake, there is an extra piece right behind the capped off nipples. This piece need to be taken off so that it can be routed down to the turbo feed pipe. I had to put that part on to route it back to the TB so that I could take the turbo off.

Also the original owner has other plans. You only get so much with a turbo auto. For what he wants, it is better to start with a different foundation.

The only piece I have in my possession is the restrictor nipple that goes to the turbo. I need to give that back to him.

At least this kit will be easy for the next guy to install. All the instructions are here online...lol.

P.S. The crack in the exhaust manifold has been repaired.

Last edited by Benjamz; 06-01-2010 at 03:39 AM.
Old 06-01-2010, 03:34 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Benjamz
Also the original owner has other plans. You only get so much with a turbo auto. For what he wants, it is better to start with a different foundation.
.
The kit as installed was capable of 300whp+ on an AT -as installed he probably only made 200ish however . Would have taken some work to get there but a lot less than an engine swap ....
Don't really understand why people continually do this kind of thing .
Old 06-03-2010, 03:40 PM
  #67  
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Quick question, I plan on running the stock Cat once my kit is installed for a while, also an AEM UEGO for A/F... does the greddy downpipe have a bung on it for the UEGO? If not I know to place the sensor before the cat so do I get a machine shop to install a bung on the stock midpipe or on the downpipe?
Old 06-03-2010, 03:43 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by RotaryMachineRx
does the greddy downpipe have a bung on it for the UEGO? ?
yes
Old 06-03-2010, 06:07 PM
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the downpipe has one bung, which you should use for the stock wideband o2 sensor. just have a shop weld an extra bung on.
Old 06-03-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NgoRX8
the downpipe has one bung, which you should use for the stock wideband o2 sensor. just have a shop weld an extra bung on.
thought it had one on the side and one on the top ?
Either way - better to have it a little bit further downstream as too close to the turbo and the heat will kill it ......
Old 06-03-2010, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Brettus
thought it had one on the side and one on the top ?
Either way - better to have it a little bit further downstream as too close to the turbo and the heat will kill it ......
mine only has one, which is on top.

definitely wise to have the aftermarket o2 a bit further down if possible. I put mine right before my cat on my hks catalyzer but just use the rear o2 bung on the racing beat midpipe. it's been fine thus far, but i have heard of a few burning out.
Old 06-03-2010, 09:39 PM
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Yeah but I'm using the stock Cat, isnt the stock O2 sensor on the stock midpipe area? or is it right off of the exhaust manifold?
Old 06-03-2010, 10:10 PM
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Gonna move this discussion out of this thread and into this one: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...roposed&page=4
Old 07-09-2010, 05:17 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Benjamz
I secured the vacuum lines onto the turbo and waste gate with zip ties. I put a tie wrap around them and the brake line only to stop the lines from flapping around.

NOTE: You must take caution when securing vacuum lines so that they do not move around, if you tie the zip tie too tight you will close the vacuum line and it will not work properly!!!!

I routed the lines up and behind that then bar and then up to the boost solenoid.


For the boost gauge and BOV I did the following.

Look at the pic #4

I took the vacuum line from the boost gauge and attached it to the 90 degree part of the brass fitting.

The little straight line going up goes to the VFAD nipple.
The vacuum line going down goes to the BOV.
The vacuum line going to the side goes to the boost gauge.

It was that simple.
i was just wondering if i had mine connected correctly because my VFAD nipple goes to a check valve and onto another nipple on the UIM. i used a T to go to my BOV. could i just put a cap over the other nipple and disconnect the check valve line?
Old 07-10-2010, 11:43 PM
  #75  
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I don't know what the other nipple is your talking about on the UIM, so it is hard for me to say go ahead and cap it off. I used a pretty basic set-up and the v-fad goes to the boost gauge and BOV with out a check valve. The way I had everything set-up no check valve was needed. Brettus had a really nice write up and owns a turbo rx8, maybe he can help you better.


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