Well done.

Reverse is difficult to shift into, by design-intent.

 

lol when you put it in reverse, if it doesnt wanna go in, put it in neutreal, engage and release the clutch (let go and press the pedal) and then try again.. reverse doesnt have syncros, this is so you dont accidentaly put it in reverse while driving.. and on the off chance that the engagment teeth line up exactly you wont get it in gear so you need to spin them again.
on another note, great thread. i just want to add for the washers, you dont need to buy from mazda
simply buy 4 aluminium washers, 18IDx24OD and tighten al the bolts to the gearbox specification (the difference in torques between gearbox and diff is due to the diff having different material washers and both washers being different thickness.
so 4pc of 18 x 24 x 2 tightened to 27Nm for filler and 48Nm for drain is all that is needed. you can get 4 copper washers, but i wouldnt recomend it on the gearbox, copper and aluminium like each other a little to much to be alowed contact, and copper being more noble, the affair could become VERY expensive, if you know what i mean

 

So 1.4 qts for the rear diff and 1.8 for the tranny is the average for the change?? And I should either use redline or the Royal Purple that was listed? I just want to make sure.

 

Redline MT-90

 

Has anybody ever had this situation come up?.........I changed my tranny and rear diff fluid 2 days ago. But yesterday, when I was driving, every now and then I could smell thr tranny fluid. Not the whole time, but I'd get a quick wiff of it. Does anybody know why this is. I check the car all day to make sure there was no leak and there wasnt.

 

You could have got fluid on the Exhaust when doing the Diff?.

You could have overfilled tranny?

How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?

If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.

 

I filled through the fill hole, not the shifter. I don't think I overfilled the tranny, and if I did, it wouldnt have been by much. I did get a little rear diff fluid on the exhaust so maybe thats it. Thanks for the info though.

 

So I've been seeing talk of mixing 30% MTL with the MT90 for the tranny. Does this mean only use 3/10ths of the bottle of MTL

or try to make 30% of the mixture MTL

Thanks

 

All this draining and filling and nobody bothers to pull the cover and inspect the gears? Is there enough room the remove the diff cover with out pulling apart the entire rearend? I want to change the fluids but I also need to know what ratio is in there.

 

^What ratio are you talking about?

 

Ring and Pinion ratio. I plan on changing to something numerically lower, but I have to know what I have so I know what's lower.

 

I put in Redline transmission and gear oil last weekend and back to smoothness. Second time I used Redline so far

 

Anyone in here use redline and enuos for over 3k. I have heard enuos falls off around then... just wondering what you guys thought.... also anyone use mutol or amsoil?

 

In case anyone else is wondering, I just ordered transmission crush washers and it says the new part number A601-17-117 replaces Y601-17-361. I saw the A6 # on the Arlington mazda site but couldn't find anything on this site. Any dealer will know both part #s though

 

anyone tried z max for there trans???

 

i dont try to re-invent the wheel. I just go with whats known to be good. redline.

 

yea ok i was asking because its just an additive.

 

question:

I have all of the fluids and pump to do this job but I cannot seem to get access to the diff drain/fill nuts/plugs.

the fill plug is blocked by part of the train components and I do not see how some one would be able to access either of those 2 components to unscrew them. I tried using a regular wrench on the drain plug but it kept slipping and hitting part of the cat/exhaust.

Any one have advice or a secret for how to easily remove these two bolts?

 

Are you trying to do this without jacking up the front of the vehicle? If you jack up the vehicle high enough you should be able to access both the fill and drain without any issue.

 

No I only jacked up the back because I am trying to access the differential fluid which is in the rear.

 

i changed to royal purple mt synchromax tranny fluid and the gearmax diff oil 75-90 over the weekend.

The rear is more quiet when taking off but overall the shifting is worse, booo . I wonder what kind of stuff was in there before LOL.

 

just did my rear diff fluid change using Lucas synthetic.

the only hard part was removing the top bolt. I had to use an extender because the sway bar and subframe were in the way


don't forget to put a drop cloth down to catch any spills!

 

I have just installed a brand new 6 speed trans, the inside is bone dry. I am in the process of filling the trans with oil, so far I have put in 2 Litres / 2.1 quarts and it is not at the full level, should I keep filling untill it comes out the filler hole?

 

Never mind, it took 2.1 Litres / 2.2 Quarts

 

YES, provided after install your car is relatively level, then just keep filling until fluid starts to run out of filler hole.
With Mazda this has always been the correct way of filling a RWD Manual Transmission.