DIY: Transmission and Differential fluid replacement
07-07-2011, 06:35 AM
#401
Well done.
Reverse is difficult to shift into, by design-intent.
Reverse is difficult to shift into, by design-intent.
Screw it. I did my clutch yesterday and a bunch leaked out so I had to put something in. Didn't have time to get redline so I just put in RP 75w90 and it seems to be ok. I'll change out the diff oil next week. I too used one of those marine oil hand pumps. Car was on a lift so I set a ladder under it and placed the bottle on that and just pumped away. Took all of both bottles with a bit leaking out. Feels quieter but still has some issues getting to reverse. Oh well.
09-10-2011, 01:20 AM
#402
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lol when you put it in reverse, if it doesnt wanna go in, put it in neutreal, engage and release the clutch (let go and press the pedal) and then try again.. reverse doesnt have syncros, this is so you dont accidentaly put it in reverse while driving.. and on the off chance that the engagment teeth line up exactly you wont get it in gear 
so you need to spin them again.
on another note, great thread. i just want to add for the washers, you dont need to buy from mazda
simply buy 4 aluminium washers, 18IDx24OD and tighten al the bolts to the gearbox specification (the difference in torques between gearbox and diff is due to the diff having different material washers and both washers being different thickness.
so 4pc of 18 x 24 x 2 tightened to 27Nm for filler and 48Nm for drain is all that is needed. you can get 4 copper washers, but i wouldnt recomend it on the gearbox, copper and aluminium like each other a little to much to be alowed contact, and copper being more noble, the affair could become VERY expensive, if you know what i mean
so you need to spin them again.on another note, great thread. i just want to add for the washers, you dont need to buy from mazda
simply buy 4 aluminium washers, 18IDx24OD and tighten al the bolts to the gearbox specification (the difference in torques between gearbox and diff is due to the diff having different material washers and both washers being different thickness.
so 4pc of 18 x 24 x 2 tightened to 27Nm for filler and 48Nm for drain is all that is needed. you can get 4 copper washers, but i wouldnt recomend it on the gearbox, copper and aluminium like each other a little to much to be alowed contact, and copper being more noble, the affair could become VERY expensive, if you know what i mean
10-29-2011, 07:57 AM
#405
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Has anybody ever had this situation come up?.........I changed my tranny and rear diff fluid 2 days ago. But yesterday, when I was driving, every now and then I could smell thr tranny fluid. Not the whole time, but I'd get a quick wiff of it. Does anybody know why this is. I check the car all day to make sure there was no leak and there wasnt.
10-29-2011, 05:04 PM
#406
Super Moderator
You could have got fluid on the Exhaust when doing the Diff?.
You could have overfilled tranny?
How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?
If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.
You could have overfilled tranny?
How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?
If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.
10-30-2011, 08:29 AM
#407
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You could have got fluid on the Exhaust when doing the Diff?.
You could have overfilled tranny?
How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?
If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.
You could have overfilled tranny?
How did you do the fill through the fill plug or the other wrong way through the shifter?
If you think you have done it all OK, wait for a few more days and see if there is still a smell.
01-28-2012, 03:52 PM
#409
Enough Clearance?
All this draining and filling and nobody bothers to pull the cover and inspect the gears? Is there enough room the remove the diff cover with out pulling apart the entire rearend? I want to change the fluids but I also need to know what ratio is in there.
02-10-2012, 11:41 PM
#413
Anyone in here use redline and enuos for over 3k. I have heard enuos falls off around then... just wondering what you guys thought.... also anyone use mutol or amsoil?
05-14-2012, 04:52 PM
#414
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In case anyone else is wondering, I just ordered transmission crush washers and it says the new part number A601-17-117 replaces Y601-17-361. I saw the A6 # on the Arlington mazda site but couldn't find anything on this site. Any dealer will know both part #s though
05-27-2012, 08:52 PM
#418
question:
I have all of the fluids and pump to do this job but I cannot seem to get access to the diff drain/fill nuts/plugs.
the fill plug is blocked by part of the train components and I do not see how some one would be able to access either of those 2 components to unscrew them. I tried using a regular wrench on the drain plug but it kept slipping and hitting part of the cat/exhaust.
Any one have advice or a secret for how to easily remove these two bolts?
I have all of the fluids and pump to do this job but I cannot seem to get access to the diff drain/fill nuts/plugs.
the fill plug is blocked by part of the train components and I do not see how some one would be able to access either of those 2 components to unscrew them. I tried using a regular wrench on the drain plug but it kept slipping and hitting part of the cat/exhaust.
Any one have advice or a secret for how to easily remove these two bolts?
05-27-2012, 10:13 PM
#420
No I only jacked up the back because I am trying to access the differential fluid which is in the rear.
06-01-2012, 12:07 PM
#421
i changed to royal purple mt synchromax tranny fluid and the gearmax diff oil 75-90 over the weekend.
The rear is more quiet when taking off but overall the shifting is worse, booo
. I wonder what kind of stuff was in there before LOL.
The rear is more quiet when taking off but overall the shifting is worse, booo
. I wonder what kind of stuff was in there before LOL.
10-05-2012, 08:33 PM
#422
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just did my rear diff fluid change using Lucas synthetic.
the only hard part was removing the top bolt. I had to use an extender because the sway bar and subframe were in the way
don't forget to put a drop cloth down to catch any spills!
the only hard part was removing the top bolt. I had to use an extender because the sway bar and subframe were in the way
don't forget to put a drop cloth down to catch any spills!
11-12-2012, 01:38 AM
#423
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I have just installed a brand new 6 speed trans, the inside is bone dry. I am in the process of filling the trans with oil, so far I have put in 2 Litres / 2.1 quarts and it is not at the full level, should I keep filling untill it comes out the filler hole?
11-12-2012, 02:29 AM
#425
Super Moderator
With Mazda this has always been the correct way of filling a RWD Manual Transmission.