DIY: Transmission and Differential fluid replacement
#301
Xboxgametag:Chafed Banana
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just went on finishlineperformance.com and want to order redline fluids and all possible drain and fill washers i might need. the transmission drain plug and fill plug washer's are the same part number but the differential plug washer is listed as just a diff drain plug washer and not also as a fill plug washer. if they're the same, wouldn't they be listed in the description as used for both? if so, i'll order 2.
#302
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^ Yes, the tranny drain/fill washers are the same and one part number and the diff'l drain/fill are the same but another part number. Just buy two of each.
Tommy at Performanceline is very good, but the website doesn't necessarily list every number. I've actually had him (or the webmaster) add some part numbers [for the Mazda6] so I could subsequently order.
Tommy at Performanceline is very good, but the website doesn't necessarily list every number. I've actually had him (or the webmaster) add some part numbers [for the Mazda6] so I could subsequently order.
#303
Super Moderator
/\ WRONG...
Series 1 Transmission are the same Y602-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer
Differential (one is made from Copper)
9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
9956-41-800
Series II Transmission is different (same as diff drain washer)...
9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.
Series 1 Transmission are the same Y602-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer
Differential (one is made from Copper)
9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
9956-41-800
Series II Transmission is different (same as diff drain washer)...
9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.
#304
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OK then, how do i know if my trans is series 1 or 2? do i order an extra diff washer or an extra trans washer? i have a 2004 MT.
#305
Super Moderator
You have a Series I RX-8, Series II started from MY 09, July 08 production.
#307
Super Moderator
I said the S1 Tranny and Diff washers ARE Different...
All the Diff Washers are the same between Series 1 (04-08) and Series 2 (09~)..
The DIFF FILLER Plug Washer is Originally Copper (9956-21-800) , not Aluminium, But some use the Aluminium one.
Series 1 Transmission are the same 2 X Y601-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer
Differential (one is made from Copper)
1 X 9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
1 X 9956-41-800 Aluminium Drain Washer
Series II (MY 09~)Transmission (MX-5 Design) is different (same as diff drain washer)...
2 X 9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.
I did say Y602 for S1 Tranny, sorry, it is Y601-17-361 (Qty 2, Fill and Drain)
All the Diff Washers are the same between Series 1 (04-08) and Series 2 (09~)..
The DIFF FILLER Plug Washer is Originally Copper (9956-21-800) , not Aluminium, But some use the Aluminium one.
Series 1 Transmission are the same 2 X Y601-17-361 Fill and Drain Washer
Differential (one is made from Copper)
1 X 9956-21-800 Copper Filler Washer
1 X 9956-41-800 Aluminium Drain Washer
Series II (MY 09~)Transmission (MX-5 Design) is different (same as diff drain washer)...
2 X 9956-41-800 Fill and Drain.
I did say Y602 for S1 Tranny, sorry, it is Y601-17-361 (Qty 2, Fill and Drain)
#309
I'm a little unsure about the mixing of the factory fluids and aftermarket synthetic fluids (i.e. Redline). While working in the heavy truck parts industry, every transmission or differential carrier assembly that I sell (whether it be new or reconditioned) comes with a few tags warning not to mix even small amounts of synthetic and conventional oils as it creates a sludge-esque concoction that resembles watery yet lumpy jelly. Odd, I know, but I've seen the effects of mixing the two lubricants together and when customers do such, warranties are void and defunct (which sucks-- front differentials are around $3,000, rear differentials around $1,900, and transmissions nearly $4,000!).
That being said, I'm wary of changing my fluids. I'm interested and would love to do it as I'm sure it's never been done (40k). Notice and oddities in changing fluids? Then again, is the factory filled fluid even conventional?
Unfortunately, I have a terrible place for performing most of my own work. No pavement and it's hard to find level ground. Otherwise, I'd be crawling around to do the fluid swap. What should I expect to be paying for a transmission/differential fluid change (just a loose ballpark), provided I supply my own oil?
That being said, I'm wary of changing my fluids. I'm interested and would love to do it as I'm sure it's never been done (40k). Notice and oddities in changing fluids? Then again, is the factory filled fluid even conventional?
Unfortunately, I have a terrible place for performing most of my own work. No pavement and it's hard to find level ground. Otherwise, I'd be crawling around to do the fluid swap. What should I expect to be paying for a transmission/differential fluid change (just a loose ballpark), provided I supply my own oil?
#310
I agree that mixing synthetic fluids isn't the greatest idea but I doubt you're going to see any immediate effects. That being said, if you have a fluid you're pretty set on I would suggest doing the change and then after a few thousand miles doing a drain and fill again.
Doing a transmission and diff change on a manual is very simple, requires basic hand tools and about a hour to do. The diff was harder IMO than the trans because every time I use a hand pump I some how manage to make a total mess. The trans I just fill through the shifter and it's cake.
BHR has done some testing with the Eneos GL-5 which can be used in both the transmission and diff with a lot of success. Despite it being an exotic lubricant we're expecting to get about 30,000 miles on average between changes. Shifts are smooth and no grinding issues.
Doing a transmission and diff change on a manual is very simple, requires basic hand tools and about a hour to do. The diff was harder IMO than the trans because every time I use a hand pump I some how manage to make a total mess. The trans I just fill through the shifter and it's cake.
BHR has done some testing with the Eneos GL-5 which can be used in both the transmission and diff with a lot of success. Despite it being an exotic lubricant we're expecting to get about 30,000 miles on average between changes. Shifts are smooth and no grinding issues.
#311
Don't bother buying crush washers. Just reuse. It's going sick overboard replacing them.
Get a handpump and pump in the new fluid. It's easy as pie. Just get the car up on all 4's and make sure it's level for the drain & fill. Drill 'ti it spills. Don't overfill.
Redline fluids are great. Mobile One is good too.
Get a handpump and pump in the new fluid. It's easy as pie. Just get the car up on all 4's and make sure it's level for the drain & fill. Drill 'ti it spills. Don't overfill.
Redline fluids are great. Mobile One is good too.
#314
crush washer
I bought the washers from the dealer.
When I bought mine, they had to be ordered, but came within two days.
I've heard of people resuing them also, but is it really worth taking a chance doing that? Not for me. The cost of the lube, my labor, and potential damage caused by leaks is just not worth risking a couple of buck.
Don't rush to do it this weekend if you cannot get all the right parts and don't have the right tools .
rx8cited
When I bought mine, they had to be ordered, but came within two days.
I've heard of people resuing them also, but is it really worth taking a chance doing that? Not for me. The cost of the lube, my labor, and potential damage caused by leaks is just not worth risking a couple of buck.
Don't rush to do it this weekend if you cannot get all the right parts and don't have the right tools .
rx8cited
any part no.?
Thx
#315
Well my 8 has 59,000 miles and we got it with 26,000 and im willing to bet the trans and diff fluid has never been changed.... so with that said its going to be done soon. anyone use anything like Royal Purple or Lucus fluids??? or is that not a good idea?
#317
Thanks! Ive been using Lucus motor oils since as long ago as i can remember and ive always seen good results using them. obviously ive been using them in piston motors.... mainly ford. not so sure about what fluids to use in the rotary engine
#320
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iTrader: (1)
Just changed to MT90. My trans was feeling notchy before, on stock fluids... after a short test-drive not sure I like the changes. I used to be able to slip into 1st while coasting down to a stop sign, so that I'm ready to take off again, and with the new fluid immediately noticed that I'm locked out of 1st until a much lower speed. Everything else feels roughly the same. We'll see how things are in a few days after a few heat cycles... maybe I just didn't get it warm enough?
#321
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I bought 05 RX-8 a few weeks ago.
after reading though the DIY section, I decided to do my transmission and differential fluid change for my first time. (My Previous Car was Toyota Solara, and even though I did a quite extensive work on her, most mechanical work was done at a shop)
Thanks to the Great DIY, it made the fluid change very easy!
I even felt it was easier than oil change.
I lifted the car at rear differential, and put jack stand.
Since I could read the transmission without jacking up the front, I decided to just go with it and drained both transmission and differential fluid.
then run a tube with funnel to both fill plug, and then lower the car.
took forever for the fluid to go down the funnel, but once I saw the fluid come out from fill plug, I lift the car just a bit and put the plug back in by hand.
then lift higher so that i can have enough space to use torque wrench.
it took about an hour and half but it was mostly waiting for the fluid to e filled.
After it was done, I went out for a drive and had no problem.
felt a little smoother, but I'm not good enough to be able to tell the difference for sure.
(Just start driving stick shift and still learning.)
again, thanks for a great DIY!!
after reading though the DIY section, I decided to do my transmission and differential fluid change for my first time. (My Previous Car was Toyota Solara, and even though I did a quite extensive work on her, most mechanical work was done at a shop)
Thanks to the Great DIY, it made the fluid change very easy!
I even felt it was easier than oil change.
I lifted the car at rear differential, and put jack stand.
Since I could read the transmission without jacking up the front, I decided to just go with it and drained both transmission and differential fluid.
then run a tube with funnel to both fill plug, and then lower the car.
took forever for the fluid to go down the funnel, but once I saw the fluid come out from fill plug, I lift the car just a bit and put the plug back in by hand.
then lift higher so that i can have enough space to use torque wrench.
it took about an hour and half but it was mostly waiting for the fluid to e filled.
After it was done, I went out for a drive and had no problem.
felt a little smoother, but I'm not good enough to be able to tell the difference for sure.
(Just start driving stick shift and still learning.)
again, thanks for a great DIY!!
#322
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I was changing my trans oil with MT-90 and according to the manual says 1.8 qrt but after puting 2 it never came out the fill. It looks like almost 3 qrt came out of the tranny, has anybody encounter this?
#324
Super Moderator
Your car MUST be Level (flat) when filling to overflow.
You have put in too much, get your car level and open filler hole and let it drain out till an almost stop or drip.ASAP.
#325
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im about to do my trans/diff fluid change in a few days just waiting for my amsoil to come in. just wondering how crucial it is to buy new drain/fill plug washers. the only place i can find them is the mazda dealer but they charge like 5 buck each. thats 20 bucks worth of washers... seems insane. does anyone have a better source for these? ive tried looking around online but no one has'em. any help?