Notices
Series I Do It Yourself Forum Wanna save some coin or time/money in the shop? Read up on Do-It-Yourself custom mods and repairs & post your own here.

DIY: Throttle Body & Upper Manifold Removal (retitled)

Old Jan 14, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #26  
anoble1's Avatar
2004 RX8 Owner
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Pelham, Alabama
Is it just me, or do the pictures not work. I wish they were imbedded in the post somehow.
Reply
Old Jan 14, 2014 | 01:45 PM
  #27  
9krpmrx8's Avatar
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
Do you really need pictures to remove the intake manifold?
Reply
Old Mar 6, 2016 | 04:45 PM
  #28  
yorik's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.

First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.

Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.

Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.

Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.

I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
Reply
Old Mar 23, 2016 | 03:36 AM
  #29  
cas2themoe's Avatar
PoloRican Rotary
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I'm getting ready to change the top air solenoid. Hearing about all the removal of extra hoses and wires, do I need to be concerned about leakage from any oil or hydraulic lines?
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2017 | 10:09 PM
  #30  
1Sontov's Avatar
Registered
 
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Ok thank you
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)

The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)

If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.

Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)

Last edited by 1Sontov; Oct 11, 2017 at 10:19 PM. Reason: in good faith
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2017 | 01:06 AM
  #31  
anoble1's Avatar
2004 RX8 Owner
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Pelham, Alabama
Originally Posted by 1Sontov
Ok thank you
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)

The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)

If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.

Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)
Sounds to me like classic symptoms of the APEX seals worn out and/or router housing not correct shape possibly.

Start by checking compression first I would say. Be sure you do that correctly.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2017 | 03:53 PM
  #32  
RotaryMachineRx's Avatar
SPOOLN8
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,300
Likes: 245
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Clogged cat at 92K wouldn't be unheard of by any means, especially if car was driven with failing coils/wires/plugs.

If driven for long enough a clogged cat can cause pre-mature engine wear/loss of compression
Reply
Old Sep 21, 2021 | 11:54 AM
  #33  
longpath's Avatar
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 631
Likes: 3
From: Stamford, CT
Originally Posted by yorik
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.

First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.

Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.

Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.

Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.

I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
I tried; but couldn't figure out how to remove the oil filler tube, as I was trying to replace those solenoids and would have happily taken the easier approach you suggested, if I'd been able to. I tried searching for a DIY on removing the oil filler tube but wound up with search results for everything except what I needed. I truly wish I'd been able to, as I wound up fumbling one of the two bracket bolts during reassembly and have to either find where it fell or figure out what its part number is so I can buy a replacement.

Like you, I found the Ľ" driver critical for getting the bolts near the firewall. Thank you for that tip!!
Reply
Old Mar 21, 2022 | 08:05 AM
  #34  
joshuay's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Question

Originally Posted by yorik
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.

First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.

Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.

Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.

Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.

I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
[are all three solenoids the same ]?
Reply
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 01:44 PM
  #35  
TeamRX8's Avatar
Registered
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 26,936
Likes: 2,140
yes
Reply
Old Oct 24, 2022 | 09:17 PM
  #36  
Rx8new's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Thank you, just saw my vdi solenoid hose has snapped and needed to remove uim
Reply
Old May 10, 2024 | 06:32 AM
  #37  
marwight's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hell of the thread all - this has made my like much easier! Thanks
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2024 | 12:25 PM
  #38  
Ernest399's Avatar
Registered
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Falls Church VA
VA

Thank you for the instructions. I finally got my upper intake manifold off after struggling with all the bolts and connections. The top solenoid has a different number than the one identified in this and other post. The one I removed is K5T49091 instead of the KL01-18741. I did notice the symbol on the side and vacuum plug on the connector side has a Mitsubishi symbol. Are they interchangeable?
Thanks,
Reply
Old Aug 12, 2025 | 04:24 PM
  #39  
RotoScooter's Avatar
Registered
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Eagle Rock
AIR solenoids

Originally Posted by Ernest399
Thank you for the instructions. I finally got my upper intake manifold off after struggling with all the bolts and connections. The top solenoid has a different number than the one identified in this and other post. The one I removed is K5T49091 instead of the KL01-18741. I did notice the symbol on the side and vacuum plug on the connector side has a Mitsubishi symbol. Are they interchangeable?
Thanks,

Yes! But only if you put a dash between KLo1-18 and 741. Part # is KL01-18-741. Check Amazon for pricing.
Amazon Amazon

I have the two bolts out next to the firewall out, but having real issues with electrical connectors... specifically at the TPS cannot get that sucker off!

Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gwailo
New Member Forum
38
May 14, 2024 06:57 AM
Carbon8
RX-8's For Sale/Wanted
42
Feb 27, 2020 08:39 AM
JimmyBlack
Series I Major Horsepower Upgrades
273
Feb 10, 2020 10:23 PM
RXFEVER
RX-8 Parts For Sale/Wanted
38
Aug 29, 2018 10:14 AM
RXFEVER
West For Sale/Wanted
17
Sep 11, 2016 02:51 PM


Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 1 votes, 5.00 average.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:33 AM.