DIY: Throttle Body & Upper Manifold Removal (retitled)
03-06-2016, 04:45 PM
#28
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
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Jeremy_Hi (07-01-2017)
03-23-2016, 03:36 AM
#29
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I'm getting ready to change the top air solenoid. Hearing about all the removal of extra hoses and wires, do I need to be concerned about leakage from any oil or hydraulic lines?
10-11-2017, 10:09 PM
#30
Ok thank you
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)
The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)
If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.
Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)
The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)
If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.
Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)
Last edited by 1Sontov; 10-11-2017 at 10:19 PM. Reason: in good faith
10-12-2017, 01:06 AM
#31
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Ok thank you
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)
The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)
If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.
Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)
I see the same blue connect on my rx8...looks about the same-disconnected. Or was pic taken in with blue clip connected? (I could not tell? - 1st time seeing it)
The problem with my 2007 rx8: No engine check light; however (#4) Hard Start/long crank/cranks/starts better when cool, Not Hot. Odd - even after recent: new battery upgrade from 625 CCA to 640 CCA, new clutch package (89k miles), new oem coils, wires, plugs...(for all I know...it could simply be "poor gas" 91/93 octane with 10% ethanol...)
If you know: Is the blue line connected in your pic?...it looks disconnected As Does Mine (since its my first time seeing it in your pic and on my rx8). Again no CEL; this RX8 has been NO PROBLEMS for this Owner.
Even though No CEL, it still (#4) hard cranks/starts cold; does not like to start when hot; plus other #4 Et al...to Restriction leakage in Exhaust System...list goes on...I guess (clogged CAT/back CAT @ 92K ???)
Start by checking compression first I would say. Be sure you do that correctly.
10-12-2017, 03:53 PM
#32
SPOOLN8
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Clogged cat at 92K wouldn't be unheard of by any means, especially if car was driven with failing coils/wires/plugs.
If driven for long enough a clogged cat can cause pre-mature engine wear/loss of compression
If driven for long enough a clogged cat can cause pre-mature engine wear/loss of compression
09-21-2021, 11:54 AM
#33
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
Like you, I found the Ľ" driver critical for getting the bolts near the firewall. Thank you for that tip!!
03-21-2022, 08:05 AM
#34
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Question
I just removed my UIM (2004 RX8) the other day to get at the vacuum solenoids to replace them. I learned a couple things along the way.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
First I discovered that a 1/4" drive (as opposed to the standard 3/8") deep socket, swivel joint and long extension made it much easier to get at the bolts close to the fire wall. I made sure I could get at them before I even attempted the removal.
Secondly, since the car is old and the plastic is brittle, I decided to disconnect the brake vacuum line at the brake booster, not the UIM. The last thing I wanted to do was brake that fitting on the UIM.
Third, on the bracket underneath the UIM on the driver's side that hold the hoses, the clips protrude through the bracket and block access to the bolts underneath. For me it was actually easier to remove the UIM and the oil filler as an entire unit. This means disconnecting the oil filler at the flange near the dip stick.
Finally, I learned the vacuum switches are attached to the oil filler, not the UIM, so if you remove the UIM separately, you shouldn't need to disconnect the electrical connectors to the solenoids. Alternately, if you remove them together, you won't need to disconnect the little vacuum hose leading to the vacuum chamber for the solenoids.
I know this thread is old, but maybe this will help somebody. Sorry, no pics.
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