You should probably read the page 1, post 1 of this thread. It gives you the exact part numbers you need.

Model Year doesn't matter as much as part number, as some 04s and 05s would have had upgraded starters installed under a TSB. Some will not have this done.

But, to answer your question: Any series 1 (04-08) Manual Trans Starter will fit your 04. Problem is you have to make sure its the larger starter motor based on the part number. (see page 1)

...its worth noting that starters for Automatic Transmission series 1's will NOT work.

Also, your autozone link is dead.

 

Going through a junkyard however, they do not give you the part numbers and will not remove the starter just to do that. I would have to purchase the starter and then determine whether it is the upgrade or if i just wasted money. I have been looking for the part numbers, but they are hard to come by it seems. I'm looking to spend anymore than I need to. I have found online the jes upgrade for $290. That isn't bad, but if I can find it cheaper I would be happy. The junkyard would benefit greatly if the 06 models did fit.. and were the newer/better, 'upgraded' versions. I appreciate the reply, Thankyou much.

 

The 06 model should suit your needs just fine. The very easy way to tell is how long they are. You can see from the pictures, the upgraded starter is larger by almost an inch.

Measure your 04 starter and, if possible, have the junk yard measure their starter, if theirs is longer, than you're good to go!

 

^ agree, that should be one of the newer ones, but an 06 could be pretty tired. just find a starter off the newest MT RX-8 you can find. try car-parts.com

 

Awesome, thank you again. yall are the best! I have been planning to get my compression tested and Mazda said i needed an updated OEM starter along with OEM plugs and coils. i have the plugs and coils already. They were going to charge like $700+ for the starter, i assume labor was included in that price since it is pretty high. But now that i can purchase one from a newer model and do the change myself, i am hoping to save a lot of money. I only have until Oct to get a new engine if mine is indeed bad. Maybe the starter is the answer i need though! We shall see. If i am able to find a newer model year for a decent price i will definitely pick it up! I guess i will post sometime next month and let yall know how everything went! Again thank you all!

 

OLD Starters have a 11 tooth cog, upgraded have 13 teeth.

Series 2 Starters have 14 teeth and YES they do fit Series 1's.

And naturally there is a difference between the Auto and Manual Starters.

 

I just upgraded to a R3 starter:
http://www.racingbeateurope.com/bmaz...--b-1753-p.asp

Worked perfectly on my 2004, and was very easy to install - even for a person like me who practical skills are ruined by to much school Never had a problem starting since replacing, before that, it was every time. It is really a huge difference in speed.

It makes sense that the newer motor has more teeth. More teeth make things heavier for the starter motor, but the higher power gives higher torque capacity.

 

Great info. I'll add this to the first page.

 

LADIES and GENTLEMEN!!! THANKYOU MUCH! all of you, youre the best. i ordered my starter from car-parts.com.. it was only like $70 total and took like 40 minutes to replace the old one. my car starts better than ever.. everytime it seems. Are there any other effects that the new starter will have on my car though? i know that it starts amazingly well.. for a fact.. but as a placebo effect though i feel like maybe its jsut running better all around, i may jsut have to run it longer and start to come down from my excitement to realize its still a rough idle. ill figure out what that is later though if it does still idle rough. AGAIN, thankyou all of yall. youre the best. ill be back with more questions later im sure. PEACE!

 

Very helpful thread !!! Thank you so much !!! <thumbs up>

 

Thank you for excellent write-up!
Saved me some $75 today.

I was having somewhat random P0336 code accompanied by prolonged cranks when starting cold.
First time code popped a year ago but went away after I performed TSB 01 017105 (cleaned ESP sensor and ground wire).
Still somewhat hard starts remained, I probably got used to it over the years.

I was in total disbelief that it can be starter issue - after all Mazda installed new one (updated N3Z1-18-400) about 4 years ago.
Car had 50K at that time and now with 90K I thought it is too early for starter to go bad.
I was so wrong.
After I installed Durlast 19407 Duralast Import/Starter (19407) | 2004 Mazda RX8 1.3L MPI Rotary | AutoZone.com ($97 at Autozone) car start almost instantly - day and night difference.

Here's how N3Z1-18-400 looks like after 40K http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8...7e80fbd0_o.jpg

Duralast 19407 vs N3Z1-18-400 side by side http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8...0e69a0af_o.jpg

Made another discovery along the way - my oil pan is all covered with fresh oil, looks like I should re-seal it.

 

Alex..Hi..

How many ''Teeth'' in the Drive Gear on those Starters (the New one)...can't see from picture.

 

11 - same as N3Z1-18-400

From autozone link:
Part Number: 19407
Weight: 7.07 lbs
Warranty: Limited Lifetime
Housing Material: Metal
Item Grade: OEM Standard Part
Over-Crank Protection: Non-Applicable
Package Contents: Starter Unit, Installation Instructions, Technical Support Card
Pinion Gear Teeth: 11
Product Condition: Remanufactured
Rated Kilowatts (kW): 1.4
Rotatable Mounting Flange: No
Starter Mounting Configuration: Bolt-On
Starter Rotation: Counterclockwise
Starter Shims Included: No
Starter Type: PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction)
Vehicle System Voltage: 12V

 

Yeah, the bad ones...they are OK just don't crank @ flywheel ring gear as fast as the 13 or 14 pinion gear.
Remember also a good quality fully charged battery is just as important.

 

I just replaced the starter in my 2004 MT with the AutoZone one (my existing starter was the original). What a difference; turning the key is like hitting the afterburner!

However, I got a different part than Alex got above; his is the part for a 2004 while the one I got is for a 2007 which, as has been stated before, will fit the 2004.

The 2004 part number is 19407 and does not appear to be the 2KW version.

The 2007 part number is 19473 and the description says 2KW. Comparing the pictures on the AZ site suggest the 2007 version is the longer bodied version consistent with the 2KW.

Pricing is different as well the 2004 is $98 + $54 core charge, the 2007 is $125 + $35 Core charge.

As both Alex and I can atest; either starter from AZ is a big improvement from a tired old starter.

 

Just ordered the 2007 starter off of Autozone with a 20% off code. Will let everyone know how it goes. Currently have a 2004 that won't start after winter storage.

 

Just replaced my starter today for a grand total of $125 thanks to this thread. Using the '07 model as well and what a difference! Stoked at how easy it was!

 

Search

Not sure what the difference is, I went for the 188.00 one because she said that they are new not rebuilt. They basically relabel them so they cal sell them as remanufactured??? Weird I know.... I got it today and it is sparkling brand new, you can even see where they pulled the old label off and replaced it with a remanufactured label. I think she gave me the code 4747 for free shipping, but give them a call if it doesnt work. Now I gotta go get dirty....... ;-)

 

subscribed !


another thread... list of all available starters compiled...


https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...-196072/page2/

 

So I'm taking this on myself today (4AT) with a little twist... I'm replacing the upgraded N3Z2 with the even more upgraded N3R2 (S2 version)

I've got her up on stands and am poking around getting my bearings. I was really surprised to find ZERO reports of folks swapping the AT starter on their own.

If I'm successful I'll follow up with some pictures.

 

I'm spouting this from research i sort of remember from 3 years ago...

The automatic starter was much more substantial than the 04 and 05 manual trans starter. Which probably explains why people haven't had to change them as frequently.

 

It's an easy enough swap... having taken both the N3Z2 and the N3R2 off/on today. All the bolts are 12mm and there are 3 of them, all readily accessible. The starter slips in and out from the rear... very simple procedure.

My problem is one of dimensions. The N3R2's gear sits about 8mm farther forward than the N3Z2 in relation to the rear mounting bolts. Unfortunately this provides insufficient travel for the gear to engage sufficiently onto the flywheel.

I grinded a little, it caught and spun up amazingly quick but I had to pull it as I was unable to get it to reliably engage and was sweating bullets fearing I'd chewed a tooth off the flywheel and/or starter.

Both came away with just a couple scrapes, so no real harm done, but I can say conclusively that the N3R2 starter will NOT fit on a 4 port motor... perhaps there's less gap between the S1 and S2 6 port autos, but this thing simply will not work on my 4 port.

Really effin annoyed cause the one time it did catch it spun up faster than I'd ever heard/witnessed before.

Now to reach out to Jason @ onlinemazdaparts to see if he'll work out something with me on a return and swap for a reman N3Z2.

 

Here are some photos for illustrating the problem. The "clean" starter is the S2 one.

 

MMmmm..

The stupid thing is Mazda USA EPC only shows ONE Starter for ALL S1 Auto's.

Whether you have a S1 4 port Auto or the S1 6 speed Trans for 6 port engines introduced into the US ( I think from 2006 approx),,,I will check...I am going off memory.

The 6 speed Auto Trans used in S1 was carried over to S2, (same Auto Trans internally as NC Miata).

I know this does not help you Shell, but I am trying to give you some ammunition to show Jason, I am certain he will respond favorably...

I will get back...I need to dig...hang on.

 

Appreciate it Ash8, but I went into this knowing that there might be a problem and take full accountability for it. Dropping Jason a line now... I'm half tempted to see if I can swap the components across the two housings.